Patcon

Why don't you take out the lock sets and have a locksmith re-key them all to one key? Cheaper, no shipping and shouldn't be that expensive if you take it to the locksmith...

Yeah, I thought a rebuildable pump would be nice. Also a mechanical agitator in the slurry to keep the beads from settling would be nice too. I may have to build one some day

Where did you source it?

"Giant Overkill" is good! sort of like reaching for a bigger hammer... Did you look through the link I posted earlier?

I can't image all those extra pins in the later ECU don't do anything...That would be very "un-manufacture-ish"

Yes all the ones I have seen have the little half round bushing. They are not available to my knowledge. Do you need one?

Brake pedal spring wire size is 0.091"

I will get my better mic and check the gauge I found a couple of spring catalogs in pdf and did some looking. I found a similar OD and length but you need an "extension spring with long hooks". I also discovered one of the retaining clips in the brake booster is actually called a "serrated disc spring". Who knew???

Well you will be really looking for Yellow Zinc and clear zinc. Very few companies do traditional CAD plating (mostly DoD stuff), and it's expensive. Talk to Asheville plating (Asheville, NC). I have spoken to them and they will work with retail customers. When I was exploring farming my plating out, I spoke to them and they had real promise as a vendor.

Are they metal or chromed plastic One of the interior frame pics doesn't really look like metal

4 required. They are unique and I am not sure you can source a proper replacement new if you tossed them...

3.55" long OA .86 dia at the coils One hook is about 1 1/4"L and one is 0.85"L Hook ID is .50" Don't have any info on spring weight

@Mark Maras I believe I am incorrect on the interchangeability. I was looking at the pedal springs tonight. I think the clutch spring is lighter # wise. They appear to be exactly the same in dimensions, but I mic'd them and the clutch spring is a lighter gauge wire. It also feels lighter. The issue though, is I can't be much more help than that, because I left them in the plating "pickle" and destroyed them. So I need to find a clutch pedal spring myself. I have another brake pedal spring...

$200 tops, provided that's a 5 speed. Probably some good fasteners. I would be amazed if there was a single good panel on that car

Beautiful work Jim!

There are a few of them, but they are easy to get to and then the tub comes right out. With the gas tank out you should have pretty good access provided the sub frame pieces aren't damaged. They are a little beefier and are more difficult to persuade

I posted before, when I was looking for parts several years ago when I first broke this booster down. I just needed the "Hoover" to point me in the right direction

I have read where the rear pan that is available needs some work on an English wheel to really be right. Have you considered drilling out the spot welds in the tire well so you have access then weld it back in when you're done?

I would think the rounded head would want to back the pins back out

That's no longer a tank; it's an overgrown ashtray!

That car would have to be #200 or lower for me to even dream about

Check this site out. I bought some gloves from them for my blasting cabinet. They are really long, big enough even for my hands and nicely lined. They sell all kinds of blasting stuff www.tptools.com

I agree if your primer looks good and it guide coats well to 400 grit then you can go straight to color, no sealer. Guide coating will probably reveal some areas that need some work. I prefer the powder guide coats

Doors are good my butt!!!! $1200??? "Crack heads"!

Look at Disepyom's thread. He was selling these parts but I think he has stopped but he has some great pics in his thread