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About newbzee

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  1. More info, I took a test light to the back of the turn signals with and this is what I found. Right turn signal on, WR, GB on turn signal side and GB in middle all have power. Left turn, WB, GR and GB in middle all have power. Lights on no turn signals, WR, GY, WB, GR all have power. Lights on and fight turn signal on, WB, GR spark when touching test light that is grounded to the chassis.
  2. First thing, I've done a bunch of reading and searching and at this point I'm hoping someone else has had a similar problem and can narrow the options down. The problem, rear lights are possessed. Headlights work, high and low beams. Front turn signals work, left and right. Rear right turn signals work. Rear left work but are dim and turn off when the lights are turned on. Also all left rear bulbs flash including side marker when turn signal is turned on. Right side flashes fine except the parking light turns off when turn signal is turned on. I've taken apart both the multi switch and the turn signal switch to clean the terminals. I've read maybe the hazard switch can cause this? Is this the case and how can I test this? I've tried adding grounds with no change. Ideas?
  3. A quick update, I found one on ebay and have since installed it with new inserts and all appears well. It also gave an excuse to replace the ball joints. Thanks for all the help.
  4. Oh and if any has or knows someone with a front LH strut assembly let me know.
  5. So here is where I'll leave this. First, I think part of having a project is learning. I've learned a ton about the suspension of the 240z because of this thread, and identified some other issues "ball joints" in the process. Second, I've never been big on throwing parts at a problem and try to minimize most problems to their basics, nuts, bolts, metal, all of which can be manipulated. In this case, what I see is a condition that can't be fixed to better than close and that's probably not good enough. Do I think welding it up will be structurally sound? Yes. Can I do added things like sleeve the area to help? Yes. But the bottom line is this car will not be ready for the road until next spring which gives me a lot of time to source a replacement strut assembly. I'm going to weld up what I have and put things back together including new ball joints and move on with the project. I'm not thrilled with having to take it all apart again some day but oh-well. So lastly, although many would read this thread and think what a waste of time, why didn't he just buy a replacement to begin with, I got to meet and converse with some really great people. I really feel like you all bought into trying to get this resolved and it was amazing how responsive you all were. So, I think case closed on the strut assembly being bent, and needing to be replaced. I just feel where it's bent will be a continued problem. I thank you all and look forward to resolving the next problem with you. Allen
  6. new clearance with shock in, gland nut on, tire on.
  7. I really had no choice to get it in position. It wasn't going to bend w/o a tremendous amount of force. Kind of like buying a 18" pice of 1.5 pipe from Home Depot and thinking your going to bend it. my thought process was people are taking whole sections out to lower their car or do a coiler conversion so this is really no different and I still have about 1/3 of the pipe intact. Since it's not 100% my gut is telling me to source a replacement but I may base the decision on how it welds up.
  8. Hey I really appreciate everyones input and if buying a replacement is the answer I'm fine with that but other than time, messing with this part only give me knowledge. So here is where I'm at, I got the house fairly perpendicular but had to made 2 relief cuts to do it. The insert still fits but is a little snug near those cuts. So realistically I would need one more a little lower to help the rest of the way. Welding these up is not an issue. The main issue was the tweak was only about an inch above where the tube goes into the spindle. Once I cleaned it up and put a straight edge flat to that area it was easy to see. So, thoughts?
  9. Ok so heres some additional findings. I took the strut apart and it already had an inert. I think the reason I was able to get some clearance earlier is because the gland nut wasn't very tight and the insert had a little free play. I've attached another picture and it appears the bend is at the base, not in the base, just above the collar. So how to straighten? The power of Hercules is not within me and there is no good way to leverage the spindle/wheel area. I could get leverage at the tube by putting the inset back in or a pipe, no clue on the over part. Another thought would be to use the tree falling approach and put a relief cut on the side I want to bend towards which would close the cut if I can bend it and provide an easier weld. Someone managed to get it bend this far into shape so it has to be possible.
  10. Had a very similar thought this morning after looking at a couple of coiler sites. I was going to see what I can come up with this afternoon, with the same understanding that I really have nothing to loose at this point. If the bend is high enough I could sleeve it, if too low, I could add a gusset.
  11. Let me provide some history so we all have them same baseline. I was finishing up a project (1971 Porsche 911) and was looking for another project. My Wife said she would only agree if it were a 240z because that was her HS car. I found this car for $300. A kid bought it as a project and it was too much. The car ran and moved under it's own power but was not in any condition to drive. I think I've welded more metal into this car than it came with. The entire car was disassembled and new floors, floor rails, and front frame rails welded in. I'm very sure the car had damage to that side based on these efforts. I used data points from the FSM when fixing the car so it's pretty straight. Perfect, no, but pretty straight. So, seeing this doesn't surprise me, just annoys me because I missed it, but thats part of having a project. Maybe it was a hidden problem and the car was out of wack and it's showing up now after making repairs? I'm not sure , I'm definitely going to pull the other side apart but I have a small shop area and at this point it doesn't effect repairing this side. I've had the entire front suspension and cross member out with the engine, and everything went back in easily after repairs so I'm hopeful this is the last problem from what ever happened. Yes Chuck, Front Left side.
  12. As the title states, I'm looking for a left front (drivers side) strut tube and spindle assemble to fit a 1973 240z.
  13. So I guess I'll post in the classified a WTB but does anyone have a source otherwise?
  14. I understand what your saying but I really think with the experience of those helping tearing in even deeper isn't something I'm interested in just yet. There is definitely an issue with the one side and I feel pretty confident the other side is correct based on crude camber measurements and overall clearance. I think as suggested we are down to a fix group of culprits. If I need to tear the other side apart I will but I would need some specific comparisons that can't be obtained while it's together to do so.
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