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newbzee

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About newbzee

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  1. So it's more likely I have a slight bend. I'm wondering if it would go back into shape? If I put a straight edge to it I think I see it's off right at the base where the tube goes into the spindle. Based on the difference in spacing over the distance of the tube, it's off by such a small amount.
  2. Any chance you can show me on a diagram where your thinking the problem is? I can weld so that's an easy fix if I know where and can get the angle. You bring up a good point with shoving the car since I usually have to give it a good shove to get the casters to rotate and I just moved it so that could all be related.
  3. ok gang this is where I'm at. I've tried everyones suggestion minus the rolling since the car is one casters right now. I tried spinning the top bushing, lowering the shock and reinstalling, switching tires. Attached is the clearance I managed to gain. At this point I'm pretty confident the assembly is tweaked. At the base there is a tab that extends just above where the cartridge inserts and on the good side there is about an 1/8 inch more separation from the spindle than on the bad side. So at this point I guess my options are, go with the narrower tire in the front, I'm getting new wheels all around so I could get a set with less offset, leave it if it looks like enough clearance, replace the assemble since I doubt it could be bent back. Input is appreciated.
  4. Looks like these be later 280z wheels. Both sides are the same, no spacer on the "good" side. I feel like I need to come up with at least a 1/4 inch to be comfortable and better would be 1/2 inch. front tires are 205/70/14 and the backs are 195/70/14 so thats a bit backwards but it doesn't explain the difference from right to left in the front.
  5. Okay will do, that crossed my mind but I know there isn't a spacer on the side that rubs but didn't specifically check the other. I did swap the tires, minus looking for a spacer and that made marginal difference which I think is a pressure issue and sitting in one place for so long. However, while doing so I did mess around with the top mount and the center assembly nut and did have a noticeable event. with the hub being jack up and the spring under tension, I loosened the center assembly nut and gave it a little waggle with wrench. it dropped about 1/4 inch and when I tightened things up I now have about 1/4 clearance between the tire and spring base. Still closer than the other side and too close for comfort but I'm thinking the bearing aren't seated properly or the bushings maybe?
  6. So doesn't it look like the spring on the side that is touching is indexed wrong? Looking at the "good" side the coils follow the angle of travel but it looks like on the side that rubbing that the coils are spun 90 degrees. I guess I'll check and see if thats even possible but something is weird with that assembly.
  7. I guess I understand what your saying but as of now the car doesn't roll because the tire is against the spring plate and I've actually tries loosening all the bolts and tightening with the control arm jacked up to see if that helped. I have to think this is something stupid. Maybe there are some key measurements I can take to see if something is bent? anyone have pictures of their 2 sides, maybe that will provide inspiration.
  8. I'm going to switch the tires this morning. I'm trying to remember if there is anything else I did on that side to effect this. Now I'm wondering if I didn't lower the shock to test it while it was in the car. I vaguely remember messing with it to see if I could use the weight of the car as a spring compressor to disassemble it like I did in the past with my son's Jetta. I'm looking at the picture of the assembly that is rubbing and that shock doesn't look centered in the spring.
  9. All is as it was when I rolled it into the shop, but interesting thought, both front tires were off together so I wonder one is different. The rears never came off. I don't know the history either, but it ran and drove when I got it so something changed.
  10. Just to clarify, when I removed the suspension, the engine was out and I unbolted from the frame rails then the struts were unbolted and the whole front assembly was slid out from under the car. Could that drivers assembly have bent doing that? Seems like very little stress to cause a bend.
  11. Never took the assembly apart. I did lower it but kept the front axle and suspension assembly together, minus tires.
  12. I have an issue where I have the same tires and rims on the front of my 73 240z but upon reassemble after frame rail rebuilding I'm noticing that the passenger side tire looks fine but the drivers side tire is rubbing against the spring seat. When I didi the repair I maintained the exact front crossmember hole placement and everything lined up and bolted up fine. This was not an issue prior to taking the from suspension and cross member apart so I'm wonder what could be so far off. Shouldn't both sides be equal distances?
  13. newbzee

    New ignition switch

    I have a 73 240z and the ignition switch is toast. Can pull the key in any position and it gets stuck in the on position nearly every time. Anyway, I ordered a replacement but my with has 2 wires, red/blue stripe that attach to a small switch located in the main switch. I did a search and it seems these go to the "key in buzzer"? I want to confirm this and get input on if I should remove it from the old and try to install it in the new switch or is there alternate wiring suggested.
  14. newbzee

    Parting out 1973 240Z

    Looking for the spare tire floor section if you have it. I actually don't need the whole thing, just a couple of good pieces with the bends if that makes any sense.
  15. newbzee

    Rear quarter contour

    Not sure if this helps but hopefully you can see on the passenger side how the body line disappears after the gas flap and how the panel bellies out
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