Patcon

Somebody did. Does anyone remember who did? It was a little metal plate that joined the ebrake cable with the caliper using clevis pins

Some times you just have to punt. I think I can make this one work if I elongate the holes some in the hood. This is an aftermarket hood I bought 25 years ago after I t-boned a post. It's close to working now. I will probably tinker with it some today

Some on ebay but they can get expensive

Just be sure there is enough metal there to take the re-threading. These are fine thread bolts, which implies they have a lot of load on them

That is probably where the seal rides. They make seal saver sleeves. You can probably find one that would fit. That provides a new surface for the seal with no groove

That's split pretty good. If you can afford to do it, I would Where is the groove?

Pretty fall color

I was able to locate 4 cowl screws in my bolt boxes. What is the correct finish. Yellow zinc or clear? Also, does anybody have one of these inspection door shims. I have one on the car. I really need another or I could probably bent the bracket...

On another note, when removing the car from the rotisserie I dropped it about six inches onto the jack stands and dented the frame rails. Two steps forward ; one back

Ok. So I've had some time to work on the car this weekend. I started fitting the fender and assorted front end parts I ran into a problem with the fenders and cowl. the gaps weren't even and didn't run straight. So I added onto the edge of one side of the cowl and on the fenders I cut a slot in and made the panel flush with the cowl and welded it all back up A little smear of fiberglass and some blocking and it aught to be good This is the most assembled the car has been in NINE years! The hood needs some more work and I will have to slot it a little bit to bring it forward some more. I will also have to re-arch it. I plan on using Jeff's method @Home Built by Jeff

Richard, I thought you posted a picture of a link that goes between the maxima caliper and the stock E brake, but I couldn't find it. Was that you? Thanks, Charles I

@Chickenman

This is a set of strut to knuckle bolts. Bolts appear to be 12mm dia and the shorter bolt is 30mm on the shank. The longer bolt is 35mm on the shank and goes in the front hole of the strut. 1.25 pitch

Is the stopping power noticeably improved? How is the pedal travel? Is there a tangible improvement or barely perceptible?

Swapping injectors around is a good diagnostic tool, but Zed Head's suggestion to just do a flow test with them on the rail might be a better way to do it

It's good to know they are irrelevant, though.

I believe I have some of those bolts sitting on the bench. I can check them after church

Good looking Bronco! 69 was a great year, lots of great things came into being, including me! ?

I wouldn't think a burnt would be an issue since his compression numbers are so good. He could have one or more dead cylinders. The way it sounds in the earlier video that would be my first suspect. I am not sure those 2 injectors are fueling. Maybe they are plugged up with trash. What about doing a bench flow test on the injectors to make sure they all flow? EFI is not my forte...

Dude, that is exciting!!! I can't wait to meet the guy with the patience of "Job"

You may be right on the guest. I basically never log out...

Those are some serious concrete forms. Is that a crane sitting at the street?

I would say with all those issues, it did well to bring what it did

That'll buff right out

I got onto the Century Spring website the other day when I was looking and printed off the relevant pages for similar springs from their pdf catalog. They were supposed to be annotated for long hook springs etc. I never could find the annotation. They probably make the correct spring or one very similar if you could locate the correct number in the catalog