Patcon

Well I've been working on building a serviceable brake booster in another thread, but I have also been working on refurbishing the steering rack. One of the issues is the bushings in each end of the rack. The passenger side was still pretty tight but the pinion end bushing was really sloppy. So I am working on sourcing those or possibly buy something close in size and reworking them. We'll see how that pans out. The bushings on each end have a groove in them that is set the same on each end. How do you think that is supposed to work? How necessary do you think that groove is? So I bought a pilot bearing puller from Summit Racing Now coming up with a way to hold the steering tube and hooking the slide hammer up was an issue. The puller is threaded inside for 2 different and thread pitches but none of my 3 slide hammers have that size or pitch. so I "engineered it" a little. Used the 20" slide hammer I heated the aluminum housing with heat gun first and it still took a good bit of "convincing" to come out. The other end was a no go! Tore the tool out of the bearing twice. that one will have to be cut out. I had considered trying to add that groove to what ever bearings I can come up with, but my concern is they are not very thick and I could easily cut through one. Also I won't be able to make it a square cut groove. I would use a dremel tool to cut a U shaped trough in roughly the same pattern. Thoughts?

Ok so I may a little progress disassembling the booster but I also damaged it some So I was tring to get the piston keeper out. Banging it on the counter, pressing on the piston and not. Wasn't coming out, so I soaked it in undiluted Muriatic over night. The keeper was much cleaner but still not coming out. The keeper side and the reverse side So I didn't want to break the disc banging on it so I drilled some holes in it so I could punch it out Now this will create four holes that I will have to seal up. I will probably use JB weld Keeper is out. Even after soaking in acid over night there was still a lot of rust. If I had left it longer it might have come out then But I damaged the disc My punch had a flair on it and when I drove the keeper out the flaired section cracked off the flange. More JB weld. shouldn't be a big deal because it just needs to seal. No real pressure there on the flange Now I need to figure out how to break this plunger down. Can't figure it out even from CO's picture Worked on my booster tool some too Made the metal plate and welded on a lever arm and a piece of 2 1/2" PVC conduit about 6" long to help squeeze the can

Did you contact Chuck (post #85) ? He is in PA You can PM him by clicking on his name

Yeah, I was wondering how close the camber was going to be...

How does this disassemble? I finally got the plunger out but I can't figure out how to break this down. Does the metal end just snap onto the round rod head? I sort of got medieval getting the plunger out. I don't think it's irreversible I will post pictures later...

The 2x material has the advantage of protecting the whole length of the studs and vacuum port Do you have any better pictures of the booster plunger and how it's held in? I know there is a U shaped clip on the bottom, but in the current booster I am working on, that clip is rusted in. Do I have to take the pressure off or something?

Of course it does! I don't know of anyway to turn it from the perimeter. On the first one I opened up I tried to drive it open like a fuel sender ring and started to cut the tab off the case. Then I built a couple of wooden templates with long 2x4's and that worked. It is easier if you apply clamping force to the case. So I will make the new setup work in the hydraulic press

But a larger diameter than a 240z, I don't know about the 260z diameter

So here is the mustang kit all laid out. I believe, the white part and one of the grommets is the vacuum port for the Mustang. I am not sure what the part that is at 7:00 to the vacuum port is. I believe all the other parts are the same or very similar to the ones used in the Datsun booster The only number on the disc So I started on a new booster tool. I will use the press to help squeeze it a little Bottom section is drilled into a 2x12 to receive the booster Making a template for the lever, it will be steel

I don't believe it was sealed from the factory. Which is why they rust out there. I wouldn't use any of the marine caulk products. I would get a dedicated seam sealer and use that. The seam sealer will take paint. I would also try to treat any rust that is down in there first

Did you just disassemble the one side? If it were me i would take them both off and compare them against each other. You need a point of reference ie. the other strut, since it clears.

That sounds like air in the lines or possibly the pads or shoes are sitting too far off and the initial tap moves them onto the disc or drum

There are a lot of extra parts in the kit. We don't have that many in a Datsun booster. I will tinker some this weekend with the rest of the kit. I may talk to Ed about offering a Datsun specific kit once I have some more facts.

Ok! Go Hoover!!!! @240260280 I'll settle up with you in Atlanta So I got the Mustang brake booster kit in from Harmon Classic Brakes today I think that diaphragm is going to work great! I haven't looked through the rest of the kit yet Old diaphragm New diaphragm OD 6-13/16" 6 3/4" ID 2.59" 2.42" Hub OD 2.65" at diaphragm I suspect the ID on the old disc is stretched from having been on the hub for so long They basically look identical except for the tears in the old one and the deformation from having been previously installed

I agree with Lumens. I seriously doubt the issue is in the strut. I am sure they can be bent but I suspect it is more likely a bearing or hub issue. Don't just throw parts at it. Find the problem before you pay $100+ for a strut

If he decides to replace the mustache bar bushings, what would you suggest he goes with? It is my understanding the mustache bar bushings are NLA

They are mirror images of each other but other wise they are the same

If you go square, you will run the same sized rim and tire on all four corners. Which, makes the most sense if there is no performance advantage

Look in my booster testing thread and contact Ed who had the Ebay ad from my thread. He can probably get you one

I have messed with some Holley's definitely not easier than SU's. SU's are super simple with only one circuit and a float level. Holley's have multiple circuits and sometimes two float level. More variables... It may be stumbling from the pump jet, overly rich. See if you can figure out if the pump jet is getting actuated when you are getting the stumble. There is a kit that has different pump cams and allows you to change how the fuel gets added by the pump jet

If I remember correctly, it was my understanding that the Z doesn't benefit from an out of square tire setup. Maybe some of the track or autoX guys can chime in. Also if you run the same size front and rear you can rotate them and the full mileage warranty will apply

I don't suspect the tension rod. I know the 280z strut tubes are different After looking at carpartsmanual.com it appears there were six variations of struts for the front. 3 for the 2 seaters 240z/260z and 280z and 3 for the 2+2 cars. I know the 280z struts are larger diameter so the strut tubes are correspondingly larger. I don't know what the change was from 240z strut to the 260z strut

Not yet. The only one's I've heard back from, I posted That was not directed at you at all!This doesn't constitute thread jacking and your getting better seems more important than boosters at the moment. ?

Maybe, maybe not. It won't surprise me if it gets closer to 50k

@newbzee I think the above is an excellent suggestion for figuring out where the problem really lies. I also suspect it could be an easy fix. If the tube was bent you wouldn't have been able to gain distance the way you have...