Patcon

I saw your car there...

I suspect the window is binding up some how. The gear box can wear out causing binding, but more likely one or more of the tracks is loose and allowing the window to jam in the track. If you hold the window with one hand can you roll it up?

Those parts look correct, best I can tell

It's a shame you couldn't get something wider! ?

I could, That would also add a nice touch for the bar area that I need to build down there...?

I will be interested to see how you fabricate the inside corners on the quarter panels. Those areas are very thin on the original quarters...

Strokers in Z motors are normally both increased bore and increased stroke. Almost everything above 2.9L is a stroker of some form. Cliff is just stirring the pot some. There are many variations on the Z stroker motor...

Really need a frame rack to twist it or some good jack stands some "D" rings on the concrete floor and some good chain pullies. With some creativity it can be done without a frame rack, just slower and a little more difficult

Yeah, that kind of stuff drives me crazy! Especially since I didn't take enough pictures of mine when I took it apart....?

Cliff!!! I never knew that about you... ?

Find the other thread on dash light LED's. there is a lot of good info int it... @Captain Obvious

If the L24 is a stroker then the cankshaft will have a "V07" on one of the counter weights. Also the block normally has to be clearanced for the bid end rod bolts to clear. It probably won't be a 3.0 stroker unless they punched a big hole in it! I, like Zed head, don't know if you can punch an L24 that large. Most people start with L28 blocks to make stroker motors...

Don't mess with it, if there's no problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not gonna debate that! Bumpers are the last thing I think about when doing a car. They are really just pretty jewelry on these cars...

If it ain't broke, don't break it!!!

The SU's have a pretty high limit, so that's not my first thought. there are guys racing with them. My first thought is you have a restriction somewhere. If you're comfortable with rigging some kind of temporary fuel source and see if the problem goes away. I have rigged up systems with a 1 gallon fuel can. If it goes away, work your way towards the tank to id the problem. If it doesn't go away, then I would assume it's in the carbs, maybe the fuel level is set too low or the banjo filters are dirty. Some testing would really help to isolate it.

I don't remember what I paid but I don't think it was that much. Check Courtesy just for a point of reference. I guess one of my thoughts is the float needs a specific bouyancy to work properly. So I didn't want to try to engineer a work around...

Most chrome shops can straighten them properly

Depending on what you need for rockers. There is a member on here that makes some of the parts that are NLA. @disepyon you aught to read his build thread

I think you're probably not too far off. They may have thin spots there on the floats or raised areas there from rolling them. The float bowls have a series of raised ribs that run vertically to keep the floats centered. So they rub and bang against those ribs all the time. So they either wear a hole at these cracks or cause stress cracks along these vertical lines of the float

Maybe the float bowl level is too high? Then drips after shutoff until it reaches a certain level...

That's fabulous!

I heated them with a heat gun and they would shoot out a fine line of fuel, like a syringe. Heat and pee, heat and pee. I got one emptied out that way. I thought about soldering them up, but when I found the others were available, it was a no brainer. The new floats are solid and will never sink...

@rossiz A year or two ago you were talking about adding a rear wiper on you Z, did you ever do that? I found these and was wondering if they were the 280zx rear wiper that was needed... I found these the other day when I was cleaning up the shop.

@240260280