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Elliott000

Where to go with this rusthole

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Got this car off my buddys cousin for the cost of fuel to grab it. It's got lots of goodies for it and a rebuilt 3.0 stroker but it's also got a lot of rust in all the wrong places. My experience with vehicles is generally wheeling and building trucks. I've done some sheet metal work and have all the tools necessary bit i have no idea where to start or if I should bother.... See attached pics of the worst and hardest repair. The rest is basic metal cut n fit. What are these top frames called. Can they be fixed? I've seen a couple cars with these cut off and tubed.... Help! 20180422_123811.jpg20180422_123806.jpg20180422_123759.jpg

 

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Best way to go at that is just buy a whole front clip from the South West and replace from the firewall up. How is the rest of the car?

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Thanks for those numbers! The rest of the car isn't bad. The floors are pretty much finished, there's some rust on the rear quarters but available patch panels for them and the rockers will take care of that. Other wise good to go. It's kinda wierd that they are that trashed. Way she goes I guess. I think ill look around for the panels, if not my buddy was just here and we had a look at hand building them with multiple pieces asking a bead roller. Will take fab time but will work. I just want her to be structurally sound. Being as its under the fender I don't even mind if it's boxed and not round.

Fenders..... Thats another issue, the ones I've got are fiberglass but they are $^!# because they got cracked on the journey home. 8 gotta locate new ones, id prefer steel but fiberglass seems more readily available.

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Good used fenders shouldn't be too hard to find if you decide to go that route.

@zKars  might be able to help out a fellow Canuck---he's in Calgary.

Reproduction fenders--no personal experience with them but at least available---shipping may be the larger problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Steel-Fender-Left-Side-For-1970-1978-70-78-Datsun-240z-260z-280z-S30/253567983616?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item3b09d46000:g:AJ8AAOSwklJa1ju1&vxp=mtr

 

 

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THe original air channels may be hard to find These days and probably quite expensive. but this is how my panelbeater repaired mine:
Before (cheap patched up ugliness):
IMG-20141117-WA0001-Kopie.jpg

and then:
IMG-20141117-WA0002-Kopie.jpg

 

IMG-20141120-WA0003-Kopie.jpg

IMG-20141120-WA0002-Kopie.jpg

IMG-20141120-WA0001-Kopie.jpg

P1130979-Kopie.jpg

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Man those look amazing, exactly what I will try to do. Just need to figure out how to shape em! My only concern is structure... Im used a body on a frame, if i cut that thing up just as pictured will there be movement that could screw things up when finished? Would I be best to pull it off the rotisserie for a repair like that or should it be ok because there's still substantial steel helping fight any sag.

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It's funny... you guys see this car and think of all the ways you can fix it. I see this car and can't help wanting to send it straight to the car crusher. It looks like a nightmare!

BTW - what is the lift that you have the car on in that last pic? Never seen something like that. Seems pretty convenient.

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1 hour ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

It's funny... you guys see this car and think of all the ways you can fix it. I see this car and can't help wanting to send it straight to the car crusher. It looks like a nightmare!

BTW - what is the lift that you have the car on in that last pic? Never seen something like that. Seems pretty convenient.

10 years ago this would have been a parts car. These cars are starting to be worth enough to justify an extensive amount of repair work. Especially if you have good metal skills...

The lift is a rotisserie, probably home built. Makes it much easier to work on.

3 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

Man those look amazing, exactly what I will try to do. Just need to figure out how to shape em! My only concern is structure... Im used a body on a frame, if i cut that thing up just as pictured will there be movement that could screw things up when finished? Would I be best to pull it off the rotisserie for a repair like that or should it be ok because there's still substantial steel helping fight any sag.

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I would not make major repairs like that on the rotisserie. You need to set it down on blocks or jack stands. Then get a datum line to check the frame straightness. There is a diagram that gives all the frame dimensions in MM's

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3 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

Man those look amazing, exactly what I will try to do. Just need to figure out how to shape em! My only concern is structure... Im used a body on a frame, if i cut that thing up just as pictured will there be movement that could screw things up when finished? Would I be best to pull it off the rotisserie for a repair like that or should it be ok because there's still substantial steel helping fight any sag.

Also depending heavily on the location. in most US-places you can easy find better cars. but in snow- and salt-heavy conditions in a country like switzerland a car like this is still repairable. however don't think you will ever get the investment back over the next years. labour is expensive here too. but if you love it - it's worth it i guess..
Yeah i would definitely take it of the rotiserie for that. as you can see in my picture, the car is standing on a chassis-jig (or whatever you call it) and put on a single-post lift.

2 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

It's funny... you guys see this car and think of all the ways you can fix it. I see this car and can't help wanting to send it straight to the car crusher. It looks like a nightmare!

BTW - what is the lift that you have the car on in that last pic? Never seen something like that. Seems pretty convenient.

Not sure who you're referring to. but in my last pic it's a single post lift from my bodyshop, and on top of it is the car complete with a full rolling chassis jig / Dolly. I got it off my rotisserie for serious bodywork. for reasons mentioned above.

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It's funny... you guys see this car and think of all the ways you can fix it. I see this car and can't help wanting to send it straight to the car crusher. It looks like a nightmare!
BTW - what is the lift that you have the car on in that last pic? Never seen something like that. Seems pretty convenient.
That's a pair of engine stands I modified so they were vertical and sturdy! With a spreader bar in the middle at the bottom. Works great

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Thanks for all the replies guys, this car same as my off road right is a build for myself with no desire to sell. Just drive, labour aside from filler and paint will just be my time with my kid over the years to come. Lookin forward to getting at it. I'll definitely be checking frame measurements. Here's my other build as she's sits today. All home brew fabrication on 38sFB_IMG_1523835246017.jpg

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Hey I'm not sure what this indentation is called on the car. Outside of frame rail above two bolt holes. What ties into it, i need to replace this one obviously. I cant really bend something up to match this but I can cut some 1/8" triangles and make the same shaped pocket. Is the recession a necessity or was it there to add strength. Can I make this area flat and get away with it or will that screw up parts fitment down the road. Thanks.... Joys of not having disassembled the car myself haha. Pockets at the bottom of pic in frame. Not the strut tower, that ill just cut out and form a peice in there 20180426_141644~2.jpg

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Remake the pocket the way it is now. That is where the crossmember mounts. IE front suspension and motor mounts. It is two layers of material. The inside layer is probably gone too. The reinforcing plates are thicker material than the engine bay sides

Somebody else just made these recently

@wheee!

@grannyknot

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45 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

Hey I'm not sure what this indentation is called on the car. Outside of frame rail above two bolt holes. What ties into it, i need to replace this one obviously. I cant really bend something up to match this but I can cut some 1/8" triangles and make the same shaped pocket. Is the recession a necessity or was it there to add strength. Can I make this area flat and get away with it or will that screw up parts fitment down the road. Thanks.... Joys of not having disassembled the car myself haha. Pockets at the bottom of pic in frame. Not the strut tower, that ill just cut out and form a peice in there 20180426_141644~2.jpg

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I took that pocket reinforcement a little farther with mine as I've always felt the front shock towers are a bit under supported.

DSCN0895.JPG

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My inner rails are healthy but the outer are trash LOL. Custom job commin up... Im going to tackle the frame rails and strut tower first so I can basically consider the floor and its structure complete. Then these bad boys20180422_123811.jpg

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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Remake the pocket the way it is now. That is where the crossmember mounts. IE front suspension and motor mounts. It is two layers of material. The inside layer is probably gone too. The reinforcing plates are thicker material than the engine bay sides

Somebody else just made these recently

@wheee!

@grannyknot

Here's a few shots of my fabs

4.JPG

5.JPG

3.JPG

2.JPG

1.JPG

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1 hour ago, Elliott000 said:

Looks good thanks for the pictures

Lots of good info and pics in wheee!'s rebuild thread!

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I'll add some Pictures from my bodyshop again. It's a more OEM-style solution compared to the one showed previously. which isn't a bad Thing either :)

IMG-20150126-WA0002-Kopie.jpg

 

IMG-20150127-WA0013-Kopie.jpg

IMG-20150127-WA0012-Kopie.jpg

IMG-20150202-WA0001-Kopie.jpg

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Just wanted to check the forum in a while, and the first topic that comes up is rust repair haha... datsun ROFL

Like JDM says I believe these are the fresh air channels ( you know that lever you pull inside to get cold air to your legs.. )

Pretty easy to see why they rust... ( air + moisture ).

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6 hours ago, bartsscooterservice said:

I believe these are the fresh air channels ( you know that lever you pull inside to get cold air to your legs.. )

Some Z trivia for ya...  Depends on the year.

They changed how those vents worked on the later cars and they don't use that channel as an air duct anymore. 77 on, they pulled the fresh air from the cowl area instead of using those channels.

 

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Well after plenty of research and such I've bought some steel. For the lower main frame rails in engine bay I've gone for 2.5 x 2.5 tube, ill notch a relief in the side and integrate the crossmember brace/bolt holes, got some flat stock to weld nuts on for the rest of the holes. Easier, stronger and cleaner i figure. Im gunna rebuild the rad support aswell with same material and dress up the upper part of it as necessary. For the part that ties into the floor behind the suspension mounts Il dress that up with sheet metal. And braces from 1.5 x 2.5 tube I already have. She should be stout and not too much heavier, ill be sure to set a benchmark to measure from on the body to locate all the mounting holes and to ensure everything is square and straight. One side at a time I figure

 

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