Patcon

You need to check your float levels and make sure the float valves are working properly. Everything is dependent on fuel level

Start with the size

Yes

Dude! There's a Delorean in there

I thought about that too. Will be interesting to see if you have any shade differences when it's assembled. The paint looks good though!

Yeah, road rash is no fun. Done that a couple of times.

My kids have played with this. It's probably 40 years old

We had both of those. I think I still have an Alva board here somewhere. You can tell the drugs were readily available when you see a car like that!!!

Back and forth?? Is that in towards the case and back out or the shaft has slop side to side?

My thoughts on corrosion go something like this. After we go to these kind of lengths to restore these cars, most of them will see very little inclement weather and no salt. They survived being exposed to those things until we got them. So they should last a lot longer than the 47 years or so if not exposed to those elements. In addition, most of us will treat the inside of these components and seam seal the chassis that was lacking originally.

Research where all the typical rust areas are. Check all of those. Not having to smog would be a big deal there because the engine condition becomes a very small issue. Rust damage affects the value tremendously.

As I recall, you have to thread the rod in as you put the handle into the door.

A few pictures might help

I like the 307 better. Since there are no records, only a few of us will know.

Me too

Is the donor from the same side of the car? Can you swap the part from the old door handle to the new one?

I'm not sure. One of our engineers want to weigh in? Tapering it together makes all three pieces act like one but I'm not sure of the forces acting on the area. Tying it to the inner wheel well requires that piece of metal to be in tension to prevent the rocker panel (beam) from opening up. You obviously have the skills to replicate the factory design. I think with out more information I would default to the factory design. They would have done it in a simpler (ie. cheaper) way if it had made sense.

Most of the people checking these cars in weren't even born 10 years after the z was popular. Sometimes that miss helps reduce exposure. I was surprised it got that high before the auction. I was interested in it until it got to $2,000. I would be afraid I would get it here and the bottom of the car would be gone. I don't really want another project but I hate seeing "homeless" Z's

She needs work!

Most of the bushings are available new through Nissan. I would buy them through Courtesy Nissan.

I wouldn't be surprised if the car was worth $5,500. If it is truly rust free, I would rather deal with the quarter damage than lots of rusty metal!

I wonder why they tapered it originally? There must have been a reason

I saw this on Copart. It might be rusty considering how the inside of the hood looks. Although the inside looks really good. I posted it as a reference since it has already run. It was $5600 before the auction started. I would have posted it earlier but Cody was getting his wisdom teeth out https://www.copart.com/lot/30378089/

Start with checkkng the rear drums for being properly adjusted and bleed the brakes. Then provide some feedback

There are some close up pictures here, page 4