Patcon

Thanks for the great write up!

I always liked the Factory5 Supercar. I could consider doing one of those if I ever got caught up on projects ?

Are the steering knuckles the same length between these models. I wonder if they made the 280 cars have lower ratios to make the high speed steering less twitchy?

Thanks

Condensate could be a problem inside the walls too. If you use ridgid foam for insulation it won't be affected by the moisture. It is also very vapor impermeable, so it makes a good air seal and vapor barrier. It would also be something you could DIY to save money if you wanted to. 8' OC, that's pretty far! The trusses were made by somebody and they would have a truss design drawing that would specify acceptable loads for the trusses Eight feet is a long way to go even with metal, especially if you're going to load it down with insulation. I would want R30 as a minimum, preferably R38 or 40 or more. The more you have the more comfortable the shop will be. The ceiling insulation is the most important. The walls are next. I have had sheet rock bow over time from blown R30 on 16" OC (On Center) framing from the weight of the insulation, which is really pretty light. Eight feet of that will add up really fast. The trusses look pretty beefy but I would still want an engineer to sign off on adding the necessary framing, ceiling and lighting loads. If you can't get the original truss company to sign off, you might could get another truss vendor to check the design. Most of the truss vendors in our area use MiTech design software to do truss work. Existing loads, roof pitch, span, member size, and nailing plate size should be enough info to get close. You could also add a truss in between each bay at 4' OC and add a double 2x6 as a post on either end. I would think that would get you pretty close to doing anything you wanted with the ceiling. If you went gyp you would need to strap it the other way (perpendicular) w/ 1x4's @ 16" on center. Or you could probably run metal across the trusses at 4' OC. You would have to make sure the metal could handle the Insulation load.

Type 33 Only 18 produced about $10 mil https://uncrate.com/1967-alfa-romeo-tipo-33-stradale-continuation/

Did you look at tire width per car? That would make a big difference

I wouldn't do the shower because it adds a lot of cost. You could do a little point of use electric water heater to feed the sink or even a washing machine, but it won't feed a shower very well. They make a system that is designed for basements where the toilet has a holding tank below grade. Then a macerator pump lifts the sewage through a 2" pvc to the septic tank. The length of the line affects head height some, but the actual elevation is the bigger issue. From the looks of your layout I think that would be a good solution. You could either cut the tank into the shop floor, put it in the gravel area or even install a small catch tank outside and then lift from there to the house system. They're not overly expensive and have pump heads heights that should work. Just remember, some of this work will never be cheaper than now. Why metal on the ceiling? I think I would prefer sheet rock maybe Type X rock on the ceiling. If the metal isn't really well insulated it will sweat, and having it rain inside your shop will be no fun! Also sheet rock will make a better air seal. The better you seal up the walls and joints, the easier it will be to control moisture. That is an issue that hasn't been mentioned before. I have to run a dehumidifier full time to keep stuff from molding and rusting in my shop. I don't know if that will be an issue for you in your area.

There's an NOS one on Ebay currently https://www.ebay.com/i/382316818276?chn=ps $895

I am sure of that. If I didn't have one to use I think I would find somewhere else to put that money first. It seems amazing to me that such a simple part can cost so much. A new hood is $650 on Ebay a used hood is $400 to $450. A hood is many times more difficult to reproduce than the splash pan. Just my perception

The driveshaft shows as available from Courtesy $109. I think he is also looking for the dizzy too. In addition to the drive spindle

They're proud of that!

I'm a little confused here. You bought these bumpers, correct? What site did you end up buying them through? There were half a dozen listed. Was the transaction Ok? Sounds like they came in a reasonable time

I don't mind the wheel overall. They are not a style that is normally seen on older S30's. Even so, the price is very fair.

That's a beautiful place. I love the landscaping around the house. Your shop is 2 1/2 times larger than mine! what I could hoard up in there! I would locate the compressor outside, but it needs to be protected from freezing. It makes it hard to start up and residual water can freeze in the lines. Distributed air is really nice. Also a lot of wall outlets 44" off the floor. That way there is counter height power everywhere. Good work benches a must. A metal topped bench is really nice. I agree on ventilation. I also want as much light as I can get. I want operating room bright. I would switch them on multiple switches so I can run what I want and get it brighter when needed. Enclosed storage is nice or even a dedicated parts room. You could make the ceiling of the parts room the mezzanine area like Jeff suggested. I can help you size the framing if you need help. I might want a partition to keep tractors, mowers and small engine tools separate from the shop area with separate access doors. Some 220v power for a good welder. Hot and cold water and a bathroom. I also have a stacked washer dryer in my shop bathroom. I wash grungy rags, drop clothes and shop towels in it

The 2450 sounds like a good helmet. I am a little leery of any helmet that costs less than $100. Cody's helmet is a cheap HF helmet I think. It just doesn't dim fast enough when we MIG. I let him use my hat which tends to work better. I have a Viking 1840 series helmet that came with my welder. It is sort of mid price based on what you researched. I wish it responded just a little bit faster but overall it does ok.

I wonder if there is a good course to play in Branson?

That is super cool! I didn't know they did that. Yes, I imagine that would make it much faster and less error prone.

Nope don't own a pallet jack. I have a skidsteer with a set of forks, so I doubt I will ever feel a need for one. Yes because I am so tall!!! Helps keep from bending so much and aggravating the back. the lower table would be nice for larger items or really heavy items, but I think the higher level will work better. Plus the bottom drawer is now about 9" off the floor. The finished top is about 36" AFF so, counter height

I need to get Cody a new hat. He get's some flash. My hat does pretty good at responding. What hat are you looking at?

Seems like that is about mid point for Highland machines. I saw one that was $14k USD. You need to add some of the machine details in the next sewing video. I don't really understand what the computer would do on a machine like that. Is it single needle of double needle, etc. Half of retail isn't really that crazy when you look at how good it works. I spent more than that on my welder. It's downright cheap looking if you're shopping for real estate in Sydney!

I really wanted them to be semi permanent so I could pull on the vise all I want and not have them slide around. There is so little room in my shop now that there is nowhere else to move them.

same here

That is correct, Dave Patton

Cool. Do you care to share the brand if it's an internationally available machine? I am interested in doing some shopping for a heavier machine.