Patcon

TY

Getting old ain't for sissies!

It would be fun to take the same car and do some actual empirical testing to show this. Stopping distance tests: with properly functioning stocks brakes with stock drums and yota solids with stock drums and yota vented with rear disc (Maximas?) and yota vented / solid See what the actual footage is before and after proportioning valve adjustments I suspect the results would be surprising. I suspect the footage actually gets worse in many of these scenarios at least until the balance gets right. The biggest advantage to the Yota caliper in my opinion is the vented rotor should run cooler overall. The biggest disadvantage besides longer possible stopping distances is higher sprung weight. I wonder if any one at HybridZ has done any testing like this?

Man, that's funny!!! I use to know all of those lyrics by heart!

Thanks Yeah, I was a little disappointed that I needed to do this much tweaking. The waviness comes from the sugar scoops being further apart than the xenon mold expects. I don't know if this is always a problem but so far the two of us have had to deal with it. I am hoping the Fusor will bond the frame tight enough to the air dam that if I want to tweak the shape near the wheel wells I can reshape the bars slightly to change the shape. I don't really like the transition from the fender to the air dam. The lower fender edge drops pretty much vertically near the marker light but at the air dam connection it turns outward at a slope almost immediately. I would like the transition to be smoother. I might need to add a picture to make this more understandable...

I agree, that car looks really good. Goon parts are especially hard to find. 510 parts can be expensive and you appear to have all the expensive little bits on the outside of the car. What's the interior like? The cars are really thin and even more susceptible to rust than Z's if you can imagine that. A southwest car should be nice and clean. 510's are still nice and affordable and can be made quick and tossable. "Enjoy the ride..."

I found these while I was browsing around. Not mine. Seems like a fair price https://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/d/modesto-datsun-240z-insulators/6774470525.html

The one I printed off was Fusor 114

Did some more work on the air dam support Here is the air dam side bracket Added some flanges I will drill some through bolts for final mounting. For those others that have used the Xenon air dam. Do they have this waviness on your install? I used a heat gun on it some today. It got better but I can't get rid of all of it. If I push the upper bar forward it reduces this waviness but it is sort of frustrating. If it was a TPO bumper and not urethane I would cut it and take the waves out. But that won't work on urethane

I see you stole Darth Vader's lawn mower!!

This guy is a little strange but his technique is really good. Look through some of his videos. I couldn't find #1 so this is the link for #3 Enjoy

Fusor 401, Yeah, something like that. I did a lot of research for products that I could use for filling a urethane air dam. A pretty specific task. Fusor was one of the products and I have used them in the past. That's probably what I'll use...

You are gonna use the hood hinge torsion bars also? Will they clear the gas struts?

I believe both sides were always the same The older style had a lighter gauge spring and some scissors style Iinks. If they ever got difficult to close, when forced the links would fold up and destroy the hinge. I believe the spring acted as the hold open without an actual detent

I am planning on using Fusor 411 (?) for skimming the ends of the air dam where I reworked the ends for the bumper slots. The bars I made fit inside the front lip and behind the front crease. So I was planning on using the Fusor to glue the bars to the inside of the air dam. That's the plan, I don't know if it will work or not.

Cody and I are also working on some support for the Xenon air dam I want to avoid this So I am missing the valance support on the front of the car. There were a few parts left, but it was pretty much gone. So we cleaned it back to the radiator support and started templating Cereal boxes make for great pattern material Cody hates body work but he likes to weld, so I got him to help me fab t It needs a little more dolly work and I plan on adding flanges down the lower edges similar to the original. It would have been nice to have made it all out of one piece but I don't have the tools or the skills to do that. I think if I had a shrinker/stretcher setup I might could have done it. A metal brake would have been nice to have too. I am working on another bracket that will be mounted to the back of the air dam that will act as a mate and have through bolts so the air dam can be removed. I have some 1/4" and 3/16's rod that is bent to match the air dam shape that will also be added to give some support and shape

Here is another "massage" technique from last weekend So I am blocking on the windshield cowl, which is sort of like trying to block a beer can. It flexes every time you touch it. But the blocking revealed the edges of the first slots were low. I don't want to fill right up to the first slots, so I needed to straighten them. I got a pick out of the box and hooked it under the edge, just a little light pressure and you can pull it up straight. Two or three tugs in a few different spots and it blocks out level

So here is the oil gutter. Still available new, at least for now. I thought I would post up some dimensions so they could be reproduced if they become NLA That is the part number showing in the first photo. It's pretty light gauge stuff. If I remember I will try to mic it this weekend. I believe the end is left open to aide in installation and evidently the lack of full closure doesn't affect the ability to catch sufficient oil

I am very close to 2 metres tall. A little big for all the older Ferraris. I guess they finally realized they needed pro athletes to be able to fit in their cars.

Pressure is one aspect, but it also needs to pass a certain volume at a certain pressure. Some pumps will pump a volume but not maintain pressure. Some will pump a certain pressure but can't maintain the necessary volume.

Yeah, I suspect she would have leveraged that money alot!!! Could you come mow the grass, rake the leaves, clean the gutters, wax the cars, etc. and that wouldn't have reduced the debt at all... I doubt the car would have survived my showing out in high school as we as all the "altered state" driving we did.

We were pretty careful on Cody's goon and I still had paint failures from rust. So I have gotten a little more paranoid! I hate rust!!

If you don't use an acid prep first , then yes I would do something similar. What does the P sheet for the epoxy want? 80 grit seems pretty course before epoxy. It sticks good, so I wouldn't worry so much about mechanical bond. I wouldn't blow the car down with compressed air unless you have a good drying system. The wax & grease remover dries really fast on it's own. Never mind, I found it. Quoted from the P sheet 1. Wash area thoroughly with soap and water to remove contaminates that solvent based cleaners cannot remove effectively. All substrates must be degreased and sanded. All rust must be removed 2. Clean repair area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover. Clean fibreglass surfaces with 19040 Plastic Parts Cleaner. Wipe dry while the surface is still wet. 3. Sand bare metal area with 80-180 grit abrasive. Sand old finishes with 320-400 grit dry by hand or machine, or 600 grit wet. Re-clean area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover. 4. Prime aluminum substrates within 8 hours. Prime carbon steel immediately after cleaning. I don't know how you can remove all the rust. There seems to always be a spot that is mostly gone but not fully. That is why I phosphoric those areas. Which can muck your epoxy. But how do you wash the car down and not make new flash rust? I think I would go with the 180 grit over the 80 grit. Deeper scratches just make more work for you.

Excellent progress

He illustrated the technique well. Copy what he did. Take you time. Get some dollies and hammers, cheap ones will work. With a good welder you'll be fine. ?