Patcon

An IR gun would be useful too. You could measure temp at each exhaust port and see if all six are firing and burning during that 30 seconds

Pretty car Kats!

Did it fix the problem?

I don't see any "Ghetto" in that...anywhere...

I actually dont see it that way at all. I read the original post and it came across to me as being very open minded about S30.world and what they're currently working on...

So the tach loop is junctioned near the fuse box. Routed through the tach and rejunctioned near the fuse box. So you would like me to break that loop and see if it runs?

Yes the refills that you found on Amazon do fit the OEM silver stiffeners I don't have two OEM stiffeners and I also appear to being missing the thin retainers, so I used the replacements I ordered from Summit racing

Thanks to Rich for the paint recommendations for the horns! @motorman7 I did get this horn working Some wiper arms. There are two different lengths. They also have some different numbers on the back of the arms. I cleaned these up with glass beads at about 20#'s of air I did order these blades for my wipers. They seem ok but the blades flex alot when they wipe. Hopefully they won't roll over so much that the frames touch the glass Also the wiper arm nuts are plated brass! So they damage easily. I actually don't know what the finish is. It might be able to reproduce it with paint

Cody's tach is installed but not functioning. It will need some more diagnosing when he's back in town

Current test mule Cable installed. There is some excessive flex but we will deal with that on the finished product

Also, I found SteveJ's recommendation of 20 ohms to be pretty close. That screw is also very sensitive!! Goes from 3ohms to Kohms very quickly. I found it need adjustments of just a few degrees. BTW I did get the my one horn working. Now for the other...

I don't recall bring able to remove the radio without removing the heater control panel. On one of my cars there was a metal panel on the front of the radio behind that panel. No way it could come out without removing the panel

I like the cup. I think it looks good the way it is...

Although I will say, the new ones are almost all stainless. Not chrome. I have stainless and they seem to scratch pretty easily. Where as the chrome is very hard and durable and is much easier to get a mirror shine on it

I would fog the cylinders with your spray of choice and then use the starter until I had flow to the rockers. You could pull the dizzy, oil pump and quill and then reinstall the oil pump and spin with a custom quill on a drill through the dizzy hole. But that still won't coat the cylinder walls

Sold for $11,250

I would be interested in contacts for Datsun guys who do it on the side. Maybe add it to my other thread

That seemed like a decent price to me...

Are you looking for Zinc plating or Chrome plating?

We made those out of heat shrink. So that's probably a pretty good match. I would be interested in the glovebox

That would be great! C

I would prefer a sanden

If there are sharp hot parts in the exhaust. They can set off unburnt fuel. You could experiment with a different muffler or try to eliminate the richness on decel