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About EScanlon

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EScanlon last won the day on December 20 2006

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    71 240Z AT 920 Gold
    72 240Z AT 918 Orange
    73 240Z MT 110 Red w/ Holley Quad-Jet
    67 Sports Roadster 1600 TBA
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  1. I wrote this in response to another Z owner having problems with his windows. His initial question had been about the need for the pressure roller situated on the top part of the door and it's effect on the window operation. I also wrote down the steps to adjust a door window to operate smoothly. The window roller is required to push the glass inward as it reaches the top of it's travel. The inside door panel and the fuzzy strip attached to it, push the window outwards. Between these two and the window frame and front sash the whole thing is maintained in the center of the window frame. The fuzzy gasket in the top part of your window frame should be FUZZY, no grease, no bare rubber spots. Grease here will just get all over your shirt sleeve. Bare rubber will just prevent the window from rolling up and down smoothly. The inner fuzzy strip mounted to the panel is what presses against the window to push it out, if it's missing or caked solid with dirt / grease / gunk it will just impede the sliding of the pane. The outer gasket on the chrome trim is to seal the window from rain once the window is closed, it is the roller which locates the window in the center of the frame. That you have to loosen the front sash and the rear guide channel (there is no rear sash) tells me that you don't have these adjusted right, or that your frame is bent or that it's misaligned. The adjustment for the window is straight forward. You DO have to have the glass bumper roller installed or it will be a b*tch. 1. Loosen the installation nuts for the front sash and rear guide channel. 2. Roll the window up and down and check the alignment of the rear edge of the glass with the door frame. 3. If the glass angles too far to the rear, move the rear guide channel upward. If it angles too far to the front, move it downward. As a general rule, the rear guide channel bolts will both be at the same location within their respective slotted holes to each other, i.e. front bolt won't be higher or lower than the rear bolt in relation to the bolt hole in the metal door frame. 4. When the glass is parallel with the window frame, adjust the front sash so it is parallel with the front edge of the window. You can just look down from above and ensure that the nylon guide mounted on the bottom channel of the window pane is going to go up and down the front sash smoothly. If your regulator is not allowing you to crank up the window after this, check to make sure that the spring on the regulator isn't broken. Without this spring it is literally impossible to raise the window. The sheer weight of the pane is too much for the angle / gearing in the regulator. The gear within the mechanism will just work its way out of the teeth on the arm. The spring is what helps you counter the weight of the window pane against gravity.
  2. I wrote this some time back about how to adjust a hood. Has the hood always been hard to open, or did it just recently become hard to open? If it's always been hard, it is possible that at some point before you owned the car someone adjusted the pin or the hinges such that it's pressing against the fender lips and hence requiring the "slam". If it just recently became difficult, did you recently do some adjustments to the hinges, the latch pin or accidentally hit something with the car? If so go back and double check what you did, the hood shouldn't need re-adjustment for most procedures you do to the car. If you smacked someone, then it's possible you've tweaked the hinges / hood and need to re-adjust. Checking the manuals for how to align / adjust the hood, they give very generalized directions but don't address what you have. I'll tell you how I did mine. First do a visual, is the hood generally aligned to the opening? Is each side of the hood even all the way front to rear? Is the cowl edge of the hood even and about the same dimension as the side edges? Now look from the side, is the hood at the same level as the fender edges? does it seem to be higher in the front than the rear or the other way around? The correct placement is where the hood is separated from the fenders and the cowl with even spacing along all those edges. Additionally, the front of the hood and the rear of the hood should align to the side fenders on both sides of the car and not be above or below the fenders at either of these locations. If the above is all correct, you need to adjust the Male Latch Pin. That's the one in the center of the hood and has a spring behind it. If however you have a discrepancy on any of the above items, then you need to adjust the hinges, or the location of the hinges on the hood or fender. To do that do the following: Remove the Latch Pin and Spring Assy at the center of the Hood. Mark along the edges of the hinges to the fenders and on the hood with a dark pencil so you can see where they WERE. A visual inspection of the hood right now will also help, since the latch pin isn't pulling the hood out of it's "natural" fall. If your hood is being stressed shut, you'll notice it here because the cowl edge of the hood won't be down at fender level. This is a good indication that the hinges have been mounted too low on the fender walls and should be adjusted slightly upwards. If your hood had uneven edges on the SIDES, then you need to loosen the hinge to hood bolts and adjust the hood to the proper location and then retighten. Usually an uneven cowl edge line will also show up with uneven side gap, although a very subtle gap on the side will be more noticeable at the cowl. If your hood is fine side to side, but is too close / far from the cowl, then loosen the bolts to the hood from the hinges, and carefully pull / push the hood till the gap is satisfactory. If the hood is higher in front than in back or vice-versa, then you need to adjust the hinges to fender. To loosen these it's easiest to close the hood, and access the bolts from underneath the hood and behind the grill. You may have to loosen one or two of the bolts with the hood open, but you'll be setting the hood into position and tightening the bolts from behind the grill. Move the hood / hinges up or down as necessary to get the hood to line up front to rear evenly with the fenders. Once you've tightened the hinge bolts, then replace the latch pin, and tighten it enough that it doesn't float around, but loose enough that a good shove will move it into position. Close the hood, and very carefully pull the cable release, and open the safety latch. This should move / force, the pin into the actual position required for the latch assy. Now tighten the pin. Close the hood again, and verify that the Male Latch pin isn't pulling the hood too far down, or leaving it up above the cowl edge. At this time also check your Hood Height adjust screws on each edge of the cowl, they shouldn't be exerting pressure on the hood, other than that required to make sure it isn't fluttering on the edges and that the edge is even with the cowl. That's it, hope it helps.
  3. This is a real basic primer on how to bump out dents and shrink metal. Ok, if you're handy enough with an oxy-acetylene torch, then you'll be ok with this next procedure. If you're concerned with the "panel beaters", and I take that to mean the specialty hammers, dollys and other body specific tools, you can still do quite a bit with your regular tools. You can use your regular ball peen hammer or regular claw hammer as long as you're careful of the claw. See if you can address the metal from behind. Typically this will involve removing the lights, wiring and other trim pieces that will be in the way. Once done with that, take a good look at the metal. Remember, metal will stretch when dented, when you are pounding on the dent from the back side (inside of the car) you will also have to do a fair amount of pounding from the outside to restore the metal to the level required. If the metal has been stretched a bit, you have an acetylene torch, and you can do a fair amount of shrinking with the large heating tip, we called it a rose bloom but it's basically the one with many holes at the tip, used to heat large pieces of metal. The trick is to heat the stretched area till it's somewhat glowing, not orange but kind of reddish, then with a rag thoroughly soaked in water, you quench the metal. This causes the metal to shrink rapidly and will strengthen it in the process by hardening the metal. You have to be careful of the amount of steam that will be generated, so wear gloves. Don't over do this, cause you can over harden the metal and then it can become brittle. Remember, you're just trying to reverse the stretching caused by the impact. Without a shrinking hammer, this is the next best method. By the way a shrinking hammer should only be 10-20 dollars, it has what looks like a meat tenderizer face to it, you use it like a regular hammer, but you have a metal dolly behind it. By the way, if you have spare pieces of solid metal lying around, look at them, you may have the basics for a metal dolly, i.e. a piece of metal to both anvil against and also to act as a counter hammer to your striking hammer. The basic technique to pounding out the dents with a hammer is to use your dolly on the low side back side. That is, from the side that you are working on, find the deepest part of the dent, then from the other side (the side opposite you) put your dolly there and press outward or towards you. Then find the ripple in the metal out from that dent. This is the "rebound" dent. When metal gets hit, part of it sinks in, and the surrounding metal will bulge out. With your hammer now work around the dent, hitting the rebound part of the dent. If you work it properly, you'll slowly but surely see the rebound dent going down, and the deep dent coming out. You CAN use the dolly to smack against with the sheet metal between, but this is usually reserved for smaller dents where you can work faster that way. Just be careful with your fingers and don't get too crazy, you can thin out the metal that you're working on, and you'll end up with a washboard wobble, then you'll HAVE to shrink that metal. Once you've brought the majority of the dent out or all of it if you've been lucky enough all of it, then use your plastic body filler to finish the panel. If you should have a dent that is too deep to try to hammer out, you can use a slide hammer, or if you don't have one, get some sheet metal screws, drill a smallhole in the deepest part of the dent, and using pliers or some form of gripping the screw use it to pull the metal out, while again taping down on the rebound dent. I hope this helps, but I do caution you, I've summarized techniques that I'm sure others will say are too complex to be tried by the amateur as well as simplified some to basics that some may argue are too simplistic. Check your library, there should be some basic books on body working to help you. and an addendum: I'll add this to that, if you have access to an Eastwood catalog, they have an excellent tool that will help you do a quick job of shrinking metal. This is a hammer that has a rotating cam head with a spiral cut on it. As you hit, the cam rotates while grabbing the metal. I personally prefer the plain old shrinking hammer. This is one that looks like a meat tenderizer. This hammer in combination with a dolly is usually all you need to shrink most stretched out sheet metal. The prior post explains the basics, and it is tricky to explain WHERE on the panel to select where to shrink. The best I can do to explain that is as follows: Metal shrinking is present when you have a washboard effect on a panel. Washboarding is when you press on the panel, and you can feel and hear it go bonk and press in, when you release the panel it bonks again and pops out. The other obvious is when you have a panel and you can see the obvious BULGE of the metal above where you need it to be. To know where to shrink, try to find the one spot that is REALLY sensitive to push / pop. This is the sweet spot for THAT stretched out area. First use your shrinking hammer, and see what you can do to tighten up the metal with that. Put your dolly behind the metal, use your shrinking hammer, and smack the metal using the dolly to absorb the impact and accept the rebound. VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT LET THE DOLLY REBOUND ONTO THE METAL. This will tighten up that specific spot. Next, find the next sweet / soft spot. Usually as you tighten one area, you'll have another area become the sweet spot. Keep addressing the individual spots with the hammer / dolly combination. You will finally get to a point where no amount of beating will reduce the metal any more. At this point you switch to the acetylene torch. Heat the metal, again not red hot, just starting to glow, and wearing some thick gloves, and with a rag that's pretty well soaked and dripping with cool water, put your dolly behind the metal to support your pushing, push the wet rag onto the surface. The metal will cool very rapidly and shrink. Move to another spot and repeat. You'll do this pretty much all over the panel, and usually it's between the spots you treated earlier. Pretty soon the panel will feel tight and no washboarding will be felt or present. Check your panel for straightness and level to the surrounding metal. Use your dolly and regular hammer now to remove any last dents, etc, and you should be ready for your skin coat of bondo or lead. If you don't want to use lead or bondo, then you just need to continue to straighten and shrink the metal until the panel is to the shape desired. Most body men will just avoid this, since it is incredibly time intensive and expensive. It is best to get it so that you end up with the THINNEST possible coat of filler. But that's another posting.
  4. Found this on ODOT regarding Auto License Plates: 803.525 Number of plates issued. The Department of Transportation shall issue two registration plates for every vehicle that is registered by the department except as otherwise provided in this section. Upon renewal or when otherwise provided under ORS 803.555, the department may issue stickers in lieu of or in addition to registration plates. The following shall be issued plates as described: (1) Only one registration plate shall be issued for a moped, motorcycle, trailer, antique vehicle or vehicle of special interest registered by the department. (2) Only one plate shall be issued for a camper that is registered. Stickers may be issued in lieu of a plate. [1983 c.338 §258; 1985 c.668 §12; 1989 c.43 §27; 1991 c.407 §28; 1993 c.741 §119a; 2001 c.25 §1; 2003 c.655 §114] Then I found the definition for Antique Vehicle and Special Interest: Antique Vehicle Plate: Issued to a vehicle that is older than one-half the number of years between the current year and 1900. Vehicle must be maintained as a collector’s item. Special Interest Plate: Issued to a vehicle that is maintained as a collector’s item and is at least 25 years old at time of application or vehicle sanctioned as a vehicle of special interest by an established organization that provides for recognition or is a street rod as defi ned by ORS 801.513. Vehicle may only be used for exhibitions, parades, club activities and similar uses. Owner of vehicle may use old, out-ofseries plate(s), a current-issue plate or DMV may issue plates as pictured. DMV must view and approve any plate used by the owner. DMV will provide a permanent “Special Interest� sticker for plates in current use. Ref: http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/vehicle/plateregular.shtml#antique FWIW E
  5. This came from the Mail List some time back and is due to be included at Z Home's articles. I've added a couple of notes and am posting it here due to it's relevance to recent discussions. Going through some old e-mails and noticed this one. Saw one answer, but felt that there was a bit more information that should be included. Jean-Pierre Lemonde wrote: Question: The 240Z was pre-wired for fog lights. Anybody knows where the wires end up in the car and ultimately where would be the switch? Answer: The 240’s had the fog lamp wires taped with blue vinyl tape to the main LIGHT wiring harness, in front of the radiator. You should find two sets of wires right by the wiring for the horns. The colors for these wires are: RED and BLACK. They are wired in parallel so if you only hook up one fog lamp you definitely should insulate the other pair from ground or each other. Inside the cabin, by the fuse box, you’ll find a 2 wire connector that has spade connectors arranged in a T. That is, one spade will be horizontal while its pair will be perpendicular to it. In the cabin however, the wiring color CAN be slightly different than the Red and the Black at the lamps. The schematic shows it to be a RED wire and a RED/GREEN wire, but I have seen this be a GREEN/WHITE wire instead. Since the Fog Lamp circuitry is actually receiving power from the Parking Lamp circuit (As well as the instrument lamps, although it's connected up ahead of the rheostat and inst. lamps.) all you need to power the Fog Lamps is a Switch, or simply join the two wires at the T connector by the fuse box. So a simple SPST switch is all you need. You CAN use a lighted switch, but you must provide a ground for the bulb in the switch. In the Series I cars, the true OEM Fog Lamp Switch was located above the Hazard Switch on the Dash. To my knowledge no U.S. or Canadian vehicles were shipped or received with the Switch in place. As a result, the OEM Fog Lamp Switch is but a mere vague memory to most Z fans in North America. The OEM Switch can be seen in one of the pictures below. Kind of like the Independent Side Marker Lamp circuitry that was used in Japan. This was circuitry to light up the traffic side of the vehicle in areas where no street lighting was available. It allowed independent lighting of either the Left or Right sides of the vehicle, both front and rear, via a small 3W bulb. Note this wasn't using the Side Marker LAMP, but a separate bulb in the Front and Rear Light housings. IIRC Japan did NOT have the Side Marker Lamps required in the U.S. after 1968 or so. But, the location for that Ind. Side Marker Lamp Switch is on the Series I console. Just to the right of the Hatch Window Defrost Switch. If you've ever seen an EARLY Defrost Switch, you'll recall that it's NOT lighted. If you were to put two of those unlighted switches in the same housing side by side, you’d have the Ind. Marker Lamp Switch. But I digress; the reason for mentioning the Ind. Side Marker Lamp Switch is that it's location on the console is PERFECT for an aftermarket Fog Lamp Switch. Especially since finding a Toggle Style switch that blends nicely with the Hazard Flasher Toggle AND fits in the hole is such an aggravation. (Some folks have just used a SECOND Hazard Switch in order to match the first.) The only problem is that most Fog Lamp Switches that arrive with your freshly bought pair of Fog Lamps are lighted and are of the NARROW type leaving a lot of space on the sides of the switch. So now you need to fill that space, or find a different switch. After a LONG and tedious search at my local Radio Shack, I found 3 switches that fill that hole very nicely. I'll give you the numbers so that you don't bug the hell out of your local Radio Shack help scrounging through their switch drawer. Radio Shack Part Number 274-731; this one is a direct fit and it has a Black Rounded Toggle with an LED in it. It is essentially a copy of 275-692 except that 692 is for 125VAC and has a translucent Red toggle (more on this later). Also, 692 is a threaded style while this one is a snap in mount. However, for my vehicle, I didn't care for the lone LED dot switch next to the fully Lighted Defog Switch. But, the switch is a direct fit, 12V and Lighted. The frame around the toggle is squared with rounded corners. The toggle button is a round rocker style. It snaps into the surrounding plastic/metal that you mount it onto. You can connect to it with standard Spade connectors. For many this will be the ideal switch to use without further modification other than supplying a ground for the LED. The next two switches are 125VAC, which simply means that they're rated for a much higher voltage than you'll be submitting them to. If you use the Illuminated style in 125VAC, the light won't work with 12V. But if you cannibalize a 12V Lamp from a V Switch, you can make it work nicely. This involves opening both switches out and swapping out the 125VAC lamp with the 12VDC lamp, not terribly difficult but it does deal with small pieces. Take your time disassembling so you can see where everything goes. Radio Shack Part Number 274-694: This one has a Square Frame and a Square Toggle. The Toggle is cast in Red plastic with White œ and œ painted on its face. It is a threaded mount style, which means that you'll be tightening a nut on its back side to mount it. Connections are Solder Style. This is yet another switch that can be used without modification. It is NOT lighted but it does have a Red toggle which will blend nicely with the Amber Rear Window Defog Switch. However, for my tastes, I wanted something that lit up like the Rear Wind. Defog Switch, but also didn't clash with the rest of the console and switches. That's when I found the next one: Radio Shack Part Number 274-692: This one is also very similar to the 12V switch (275-731) except that it has a rounded Red TRANSLUCENT Plastic Toggle Switch that is illuminated from inside the switch. It is a Threaded Mount, and uses the narrower Spade Lug Connectors. It is however a 125VAC switch. To convert it to 12V you will have to cannibalize a 12V Lighted Switch. But once you do so, the match to the LIGHTED Hatch Defrost Switch is much more appealing. This is the one I used on my car. Click the link below to see the final picture. All of these switches FILL the space to the right of the Hatch Defrost Switch that's for the Ind. Side Marker Switch. Perfect if you don't have the filler plug. If you DO have the filler plug....DO NOT THROW IT AWAY. There are several people who are in need of just that plug. Trust me, either keep it or sell it. To see a picture of the installed switch in my car, follow this link: Hope this helps. Enrique
  6. I wrote this some time back to help a member whose window had fallen off the tracks. Remove the regulator assembly. That's the gear and scissor mechanism that the window crank operates. This will allow you to operate the window pane within the opening without the regulator getting in the way. Once it's out of the way, slide the window glass up and down inside the frame and tracks. You should be able to determine if the window will go up and down smoothly and effortlessly (of course barring the weight of the pane and gravity). If it passes this test, then you know that the window frame and sashes are set up properly. You can now direct your attention to the regulator. If on the other hand you find that it sticks either on the way down or on the way up, address the problem. Is the window roller (the little barrel shapped roller) pressing on the window pane properly? Is it guiding the pane into the upper part of the frame or not? How about the lower front sash? Is the front nylon guide on the window pane sliding through the sash smoothly? Is it bent? Will lubrication take care of it or do you need to remove it? I recently had the same problem with a passenger side window. I finally disassembled the whole assembly and discovered that my lower sash was just slightly bent and was causing the nylon guide to bind, causing me to exert a ton of pressure on the handle to get it to go up and down. After replacing the sash, the window goes up and down like new. Check the Window Frame, is it straight? There are some gentle curves to it, that's to allow the glass, which isn't flat itself, to slide up and down inside the frame. But other than the gentle curves is the frame itself straight, i.e. no twists, no sharp bends nothing that would stop the glass from going up and down? If all these check, then last couple items: Are the roller guides on the window pane frame straight and unbent or undamaged? These little guides are what the wheels on the scissor assembly of the window regulator ride in and exert the pressure to raise and lower the pane. If there are kinks, gunk, or other obstructions they will cause you problems. Check the roller wheels, are they able to rotate freely? If they are binding or sticking, clean them out and make sure they operate without wobbling on their axles. If they have a lot of play on the axle on which they are mounted, i.e wobble on the axle, they will probably jam as you exert pressure on the wheel through that axle. Next, check the regulator gear and spline arm. Any teeth missing? Is the gear portion of the spline arm straight and making proper contact on the gear that the crank handle actuates? Is there a spring on the scissor assembly? If so, it's there to help exert pressure upwards on the glass to help neutralize the effect of the weight of the pane on the assembly, if it's broken or missing, then raising the glass is going to be extremely difficult. You shouldn't have to apply grease to the upper portion of the window frame "fuzzy channels" This part of the window comes into contact with passengers, believe me your girlfriend will kill you if you get grease on her $90 blouse. She will probably do more than $90 in damage to you and / or your car. The only place for grease on the window assemblies is on the front sash, where the nylon guide slides through, the gear / spline contact area, the swivel point for the scissor, and the two roller guides that fit in to the window pane frame guides. Other than that, no grease, oil or other lubricant other than the "fuzziness" of the gasket. If the fuzzy gaskets in the upper part of the frame have lost their "fuzzy" stuff, then they'll act just like rubber stops on glass, which is basically what they are. Replace them. There is no other way of restoring those items.
  7. Here's a primer on how to adjust the doors on your Z so that they fit properly and seal well. ADJUSTING THE Z DOORS: Unless the car has been in an accident and the door opening or door itself have been tweaked out of shape, most problems with the doors are due to misaligned latches, hinges, or worn components. Presuming that it is adjustment or bad parts and not bent items check the following. First perform a visual check of the door. Check to make sure that the door is aligned properly within the door opening. Check the spacing along the top part of the window frame, the spacing between the window frame and the quarter window, also the spacing between the door skin and the rear quarter panel. I also check the spacing on the front of the door, above the hinges and the front fender. All of these should be even, and consistent in width. The gap should not appear to be excessive one edge with it's opposite component, i.e. front of door to back of door; top edge by windshield cowl and lower edge, etc. If all these appear in order then you have an adjustment problem with the latch mechanism. If however, there is a problem with the alignment, before you go and loosen the hinge bolts behind the kick panels, first do the following: 1. Check if there is any vertical play to the door, that is, with the door open lift the door gently. If there is a noticeable movement up and down, then you may have a worn pin or pins that are causing the alignment problem. Check to make sure that the hinges are solidly affixed and if so, then you definitely have a worn hinge. Although it is difficult to find new hinges, you might need to replace one or both. On Chevy's it is a known problem and parts stores sell new hinge pin inserts to fix this. This is an often overlooked problem, so check this first before you dismount the door or start adjusting the latch etc. 2. If the hinges are in good condition and there is no vertical play, check your weatherstripping. I know of a case where a guy filled the cavity in his weatherstripping with silicone in order to get a "tight" seal. Unfortunately, it also increased the thickness of the gasket and made it almost impossible to close the door without a hydraulic ram. He finally replace the weatherstrip. Check to make sure that the weatherstripping is mounted properly on the lip of the door opening, also the rubber splash guard on the front part of the door just above the hinges. Check the lower weatherstrip on the under lip of the door. Any one of these could cause the door to shut hard. 3. If both the above are ok, check to see where the latch is striking the striker plate. The striker plate is on the door frame and the latch is on the door. Both must line up in order to catch. The latch on the door has countersunk screws and hence is fixed in position. The striker plate on the door is the major adjustment item. It can be positioned along the 4 axis on each of the screws. Close the door, if the door exterior is not flush with the rear quarter panel skin, then you need to move the striker plate in (towards the seat for a protruding door edge) and out (for a sunken door skin). If the door is difficult to close AND the handle is hard to operate, check the bottom of the striker plate to make sure that it isn't inclined too far inward in relation to the top of the plate. That is, the door latches, and the skin lines up, but it feels as you are forcing the door to close and forcing the handle to open, then the bottom part of the latch is stressing the latch, Loosen the screws, and WITHOUT moving the top part of the plate, adjust the lower portion of the plate outwards. Align and retry. If the door latches but springs back when slammed the bottom of the striker plate is probably out too far. This appears to be a half-way latch, and only the safety position has been achieved. If when closing the door, there is a noticeable thunk, and when opening the door the door seems to "DROP", then the striker plate is set too high. The reverse occurs when the plate is too low, although in this instance the door usually will not latch. If you find that you have to move the door within it's opening, then it gets a little more complicated. In a nutshell; you need to remove the electrical components attached to the kick panels, remove the kick panels, and preferably with a jack supporting the door, or a friend, loosen the hinge bolts located behind the kick panels and adjust the door to fit. It makes it easier to remove the striker plate mechanism in order to ensure a good fit. DO NOT remove the hinges from the door, or loosen these bolts unless there is a problem with the hinge. The hinge pins must be PARALLEL and IN LINE to work properly, and it is too easy to get these out of line and introduce serious stress to the door. Sorry for the length, but hope it covered your question and options. Enrique Scanlon
  8. At the front of the radiator you'll find two pairs of wires both Red and Black. Typically they're taped to the harness with Blue electric tape. Those are the connections for the Fog Lamps in parallel (that means they are both powered off the same circuit, but not dependent on one another to work). Inside the vehicle, typically behind the Fuse Box or Hazard Switch, (depending on whether the bundle has been moved or not) you'll find two sets of 2-wire connectors. In my car they were connected to each other even though neither circuit was operational. The first circuit is for the Fuel Pump (Electric) and it's pair of wires are Green and Black/White. You can see the in-line fuse holder in the attached pic. If you look closer in the pic, above and to the right of the connector with masking tape (labeled "console") you'll see another 2-wire connector with Red and Green/White wires going to it that has been taped with the Blue electrical tape mentioned. (See second pic.) That is the connector for the SWITCH and (in-line fuse holder if you run large wattage lamps). The wiring schematic calls out for a Red and a Red/Green, but the Red/Green connects to the Green/White wire that feeds the Side Marker Lamps and Instrument Lamps, so they may have changed the color in production. The Fog Lamps, being on the same circuit as the Side Marker Lamps operate ONLY when the Light Switch (on the Comb Switch) is at least on Parking Lamp mode. If you wanted them on in lieu of the car's parking lamps you would need to wire them separately. Take note however, that all you need to do is close the connection between the Red and the Green/White (or Red/Green) to have power at the bullet connectors at the front of the car. FWIW E
  9. This comes up often enough that it should be posted as a tech article. This is taken from a different posting where Heater Control Panel Illumination was the topic. In case that is what you were looking for: (Original Thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141090#post141090) The Clock not working in the Z's is such an endemic characteristic that it almost seems a basic requirement of the car. If your clock works....it's not a Z. Fortunately, with a little careful effort it can be avoided. Here's how: ......snipped from original thread.... As far as your clock, you can fix it, and if you're careful it will last a long while. I fixed a pair of these a couple of years ago and they're still working great. I even went the extra step to calibrate it and now it only gains 1-2 minutes a day. Not a chronometer but definitely much better than not working. Open the clock housing by removing the two screws holding the face bezel in place. Next gently lift off the clock hands, and carefully remove the face. Below it you should find a black washer and a spring tripod washer. Make sure you don't lose these. Once these are off you can address the main problem with the clock. Added on edit: The sequence of these parts from outside in: Bezel, Minute Hand, Hour Hand, Clock Face, Black Washer, Tripod Washer.) From the back of the case, ( * see add )remove the 3 nuts that hold the clock mechanism inside the case. Once this is done, carefully force the wire and the rubber boot that powers it, INTO the case, and then do the same thing for the connector. If your connector boot (not the one at the case, but the one where the clock connects to the harness) is pliable enough, gently straighten it out and fold in the heat crimped plastic wings so that it will fit through the hole in the case. Added on edit: The bracket that holds the clock to the dash and fits the outside of the case needs to be removed first. There is also a "newer" clock version where the 3 nuts holding the clock mechanism aren't on the back of the case and the bracket that attaches to the case and dash doesn't have the extended "handle". Be careful opening these as EVERYTHING inside pops out the minute you remove the bezel. At this point you should be able to remove the clock mechanism from the metal case. Take a minute to clean out any dust or gunk inside the case, and if you want it to be brighter when illuminated, paint the inside with a WHITE paint, the green lens on the bulb housing will still illuminate the inside as green, but it will be MUCH brighter when you have the lights on. Be careful not to smear the bulb housing. Set this aside to dry. Now, looking at the clock mechanism. You'll note a little motor on the back side of the mechanism. ( * see add ) Get a bottle of sewing machine oil and a long enough needle and apply a small drop (by small, I mean minuscule) to the motor housing and the associated pivot points. You can power it up right away, although personally I let this soak for a bit. Usually the length of time to let the paint dry in the case is sufficient, or overnight. Added on edit: The newer clocks mentioned before have the motor OPEN and with the shaft of the motor being the PENDULUM of the clock. The earlier clocks had a standard clock pendulum but used the motor to WIND the clock spring. The oiling procedures for both are nominally the same. Next, to ensure that it's working, you can either re-assemble and plug in, or you can provide power to the clock via a 12v power supply. It doesn't require a large current as the motor just winds the spring enough to keep the clock going. If everything is working correctly, you should hear and see the motor wind and you'll notice the pendulum gear begin to oscillate back and forth. I then re-assemble the clock and to ensure it doesn't conk out, I leave it plugged into the power supply for a while. If you want at this point you could calibrate the clock, except for one thing. Most power supplies supply 12.0v DC, while in the car you will be working with 12.8v to 13.5v depending on the condition of your battery and connections. To get it "perfect" you would need to match the voltage in your car. This takes a l o n g time, so leaving it in the car would be a problem, unless you don't mind having it dangling off on the side for days-weeks. So, if you don't mind it running a bit fast (as mine does), just hook it up to your power supply continuously for a few days. The procedure is simple. Once the clock is functioning properly, set the time to match a KNOWN good clock. Whether it's your wrist watch, a house clock, digital or analog it doesn't matter. You're just going to be using it to compare what the car clock is doing in relation to that one. After 24 hours or thereabouts as it doesn't matter whether you check every 2 hours or 200 hours, compare the time on both pieces. If the car clock shows 12:30 and your reference is 12:00, the car clock is fast, the opposite would be a slow mechanism. On the back of the clock housing, you'll notice a hole, usually with a milky white plug inserted into it, with markings around it ( + | | | - ). Added on edit: The newer clock has ( S <----> F ) with the arrow ABOVE the hole while some older models had ( F <----> S ) with the arrow BELOW the hole. The directions are the same, but it's easy to think they're reversed. Remove the plug, and inserting a small straight screwdriver into this hole, you'll find a screw in there. Give it a gentle twist in the direction you need to adjust the clock. If fast, tweak the screw by a DEGREE or two (360° in a complete revolution) in the - direction. If slow, in the +. Be careful not to over-adjust, a small adjustment of a degree can be as much / little as 10 minutes per 12 hours or less, so by doing small adjustments you won't swing erratically all over the place. Reset the car clock to coincide with the reference clock. Recheck the two clocks again in another day or so, and repeat the adjustment until they coincide with each other, or you are satisfied with the amount of disparity. Hope this helps. Enrique
  10. Version 1.0.0


    Original Article Enrique Scanlon (2004) - Revised & Expanded with Bob Kroshefsky (2011) Pictures by Bob Kroshefsky (2011) P/N Breakdown by Bob Kroshefsky (2011)
  11. Hey there Scanlon,

    Twice in the past 2 years I've been traveling in your area and never took the time to visit - so sorry. My daughter now lives in Portland (across the river from you) and I've not been visiting this site for a while.  I've got a Jeep also now I'm in to offroading sooooooo....

    Ill be coming to Portland sometime in April for my new granddaughter's arrival.  Hopefully I'll get some time to visit if you wouldn't mind.

    Still have the Z but I think it's time to sell. Just don't have the time anymore.  We travel from Florida 6 months out of the year all over but mostly to the Northwest (Bremerton and Portland).

    Still I'd like to visit if OK?  Just let me know.



    1. Mike


      Miss you, Enrique!

  12. TY would like to know about the spotlight and the ZCON thing
  13. To all this is his wife Deb TY for all the kind words-would love to print this but Enrique was my computer man so don't know how
  14. Proof positive of why they call the area the "Rust Belt". E
  15. And I've seen it done both ways... over the rubber and cutting out the rubber. E
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