jfa.series1

I've seen some recent comments that said the replacement panels need to be curved to match the original lines. One comment said to search for a donor car as an alternative.

Another possible clue: to the best of my recall, all the factory connectors in that area are bullet style, no spade style.

Get over to Hagerty and check the valuations on condition 1 cars. Given the upgrades on this car, I'm surprised the price isn't higher.

That looks like the correct item for the side glass seal - they do a good job of describing it. As to professional installation, I doubt that is necessary. The second item is at MSA and BD, you need a Left and Right. MSA offers you choices of Nissan or reproduction. Mine are the repro versions and a perfect fit. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a04/34-1105

Am I sure? NO - but you have my best guess at what else you need. Do you have the plastic rivets for the lower door seals and also for the door-to-fender seals?

Two items I don't see in your list: the side glass outer seal, often called the "squeegee" - it is attached to a chrome strip at the top of the door panel. Also, a small seal at the back of the door where the window frame meets the door. Check the BD site and you can probably identify these two items. The side glass seal is often sold attached to replacement chrome strips. The problem is the new chrome strip is straight and must be forcibly curved to fit the door - not an easy task and possibly damaging to your paint. I think some others have found the side glass seal available by itself - it can be attached to your chrome strip with small pop-rivets.

That's really nice work! If you can get that stuff in black, I suspect you would have a kit business ready to take off.

This is a heads-up to any of our South Texas members. Jason Winget is doing a circumnavigation of the U.S. in his '70 Fairlady. According to his FB blog post this morning, he has cleared Houston for ? Not sure if he is headed down the coast or west on I-10 to San Antonio. Jason is always ready to meet-up with fellow Z owners. You can reach out to him on his blog page or email at datjunky@gmail.com. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=533477736801054

If you did not already have an idea on the original set-up, here's a pic of the stock plumbing when coolant is routed to the intake manifolds.

Really nice work, James. Anxiously awaiting the next installment - pun intended!

None that I am aware of. I know the originator of this one is focusing exclusively on 240Z's.

This info is from the Datsun 240Z Registry on Facebook. They've recently posted a matrix of the exterior/interior colors for the 240Z's. Your code was available from build dates 9/71 to 8/73. The info came direct from Nissan Service Bulletins. If you're not yet a member on the registry, please consider joining. It's an effort to locate all surviving 240Z's. https://www.facebook.com/groups/121977164809467/

I got a special dispensation from Frank T. - caught him in a weak moment. The next time you see him, ask him how he knows me. You do know the club has members all over the world, right?

Looking VERY good!

Glad to help a fellow CTZCC member.

Our VIN's are close enough together to have the same wiring. Tailights - only the top two bulbs light Brake, hazard, turnsignal - all three bulbs

Check social media - FB, Twitter, ...etc. 5 Joe Rawles listed on FB

Lets not be so quick to throw Courtesy under the bus. Perhaps the number of page hits on those sub-topics has declined to the point of no longer being supportable. They have always been a great supporter of all generations of Z cars; David and Butch have always been responsive in looking for parts for the older cars.

We really need to see the pictures!

Wishing all of our good friends in Canada a most Happy Thanksgiving!

Jeff - that's a great story, really well written. Pretty cool that you could track down the original owner, previously in California and now in the area close to your family. You've done a nice job on closing the loop on the car's ownership and history. Sorry to have missed you at C&C. We had a family event at my home that day to celebrate my Aunt's 100th birthday. As to the low turnout for Z's, our local club has gotten pretty well burnt out on C&C as the personality of the Plano event has significantly changed over the past couple of years. Regards, Jim

Mine are 16 X 7 Rewinds, 0 offset with 205/55 BFG G-force tires. Eibach Progressive springs. Maintains the stock 25" overall diameter, no speedo error and no rubbing.

Welcome to the group - all the help you'll probably ever need is right here. That's a great looking car and your description suggests it's solid throughout. Your co-pilot looks to be the right age to get into some wrenching. Tell her the first letter of the alphabet is Z and really mess with her day-care folks! P.S. - My car says hello to it's slightly older sibling!

I love the comment "Not as aggressive in mods from stock as car # 1233" - me. - I had 3 underhood mods: air pump and related controls gone, header and exhaust, air horns. Go figure. Agree with the comments on Z Brothers - what a fantastic group to be with. Jim

I also removed the tracks from the frames for cleaning and repainting but re-assembled them prior to putting the soft bits in place. Otherwise, the track nuts are a blind access as you have discovered. I don't know of any way to get to them with the cover and foam in place. I had no significant problems getting the covers in place with the tracks installed. Not what you want to hear but I think you're facing a teardown and re-assembly.