jfa.series1

Here's an OE cover on the left and a new one from Seatz on the right: Here's a new full set from Seatz And this is a finished seat with the new cover:

I also have the covers by Seatz - no left/right sides. These are awesome quality!

Just got my periodic closeout message from RockAuto. There might be some treasures here for some of you - such as a Wix Fuel Filter for $0.71!!! http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209158&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Postmark of 1928. Great read - thanks for sharing.

Beautiful fasteners!!!

Its the details (and missing pics) that tell the tale - a $27.5k car it is NOT. De-badged hood and fenders, shaved bumpers, painted elements in the engine bay, incorrect oil cap, heater lines cut off, no hoses on carb float bowls, admitted dash cap, wrong steering wheel, antenna (?), ...lots more. Not shown are the hatch and rear compartment, suspension, underside. A pretty paint job does not a restoration make.

Nothing like that on my car - and I've touched every piece.

Very nice indeed!

Welcome to the group. If you've been looking over our shoulders for any length of time, you know that pictures and details are required entry fees. Looking forward to hearing more of your team project, you've picked a great platform to work on together.

I've got the Konig 16X7", 0 offset with 205/55 rubber - BFG gForce. No rolled fenders and no rubbing, I'm also running Eibach progressive springs. This size tire retains the OE 25" diameter so there's no speedo error. Check with your area tire dealers such as Discount to see if they can put together a wheel/tire package deal and save you some $$$. It was there for the asking when I bought mine at Discount. FYI - a number of prior posts have commented on the limited selection of 15" tires.

Looking good. Wipe all those shiny bits with Nevr-Dull before re-assembly and they'll stay that way!

Anniversary congrats to another member of the One-And-Only Owner's Club (I just made that up but the good wishes are still there).

I had no difficulties with the retractor component when using the original stock shoulder belt spacers and bolts. They swivel freely and no issues with pulling the belts out or having them lock with a sharp pull.

WOW - what a hottie!!!

Nothing wrong with that effort - looks like a lot of careful work going into that truck. An old saying: "There's nothing new under the sun". Back in the 70's Earl Hughes Datsun of Fort Worth TX took a Datsun pickup and stuck an L24 in it by lengthening the rails, hood, fenders, ...etc. With a light towhook installed in the bed, it was a regular at all of our SCCA area races.

DJ - congrats on saving that great looking Series1

That looks to be the JOINT-TUBE BREATHER 17227-E4100 or 17227-E4600 per the online catalog up to 7103. For 7104 and after it is 17227-E4101 or 17227-E4601. The catalog shows this as a "T" fitting, mine is also a straight fitting. Unfortunately I can't do a paste from IE to get the catalog link to you. The "T" fitting might be the 4100/4101 and a straight fitting might be 4600/4601 or vice-versa. This is probably a Nissan-only part, see if your dealer can help.

Generally, if a car is totaled the owner gets a check for the current/book value of the car and the insurance company takes title - i.e. they just bought the car from the owner. The insurance company will then sell the car for salvage. Some insurance companies will allow the now prior owner to bid on the car and buy it back out of the settlement. That's when the car gets a salvage title. As to the impact on future value, take a lot pictures of the car before and after repairs to document the extent of damage and how it was handled. Only a future buyer can determine if it has significant impact on the price he/she is willing to pay.

Found it! Thanks zKars

A little help please - where/how can I find "My Media"? The old site had "Manage Attachments" as part of the advanced reply functions but I cannot find a similar item now. Thanks

The engine bay plate shown appears to have engine # 3377 and car # 0066. The plot thickens like curdled milk.

Its possible the mounting screws are contacting the metal lamp body on their way to the fender. Check that the rubber seals are carefully fitted to the lamp body and the screw holes in the seal are not close to the lamp body holes. Then carefully fit the lens and stainless trim into the seal but don't change the seal fit on the lamp body. I have this kit and love the effect on the marker lights.

I hope the eureka moment didn't hurt too bad! Didn't the old Model T's and others have a lever on the steering column for this purpose?

Hey Chris, From your slightly younger cousin, check out the Roadster belt at WESCO. I've got them in my car and very well pleased. The retractor mounts up at the quarter window in place of the OE shoulder belt with no changes and you want the 11" sleeve for the buckle side. I can't get the website link to paste so Google Wescoperformance. Jim

Seems like just a coincidence - no connection between the ebrake and brake lights. A possible cause is a stuck switch at the brake pedal or the adjustment nut has moved on the switch.