jfa.series1

This is a heads-up to any of our South Texas members. Jason Winget is doing a circumnavigation of the U.S. in his '70 Fairlady. According to his FB blog post this morning, he has cleared Houston for ? Not sure if he is headed down the coast or west on I-10 to San Antonio. Jason is always ready to meet-up with fellow Z owners. You can reach out to him on his blog page or email at datjunky@gmail.com. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=533477736801054

If you did not already have an idea on the original set-up, here's a pic of the stock plumbing when coolant is routed to the intake manifolds.

Really nice work, James. Anxiously awaiting the next installment - pun intended!

None that I am aware of. I know the originator of this one is focusing exclusively on 240Z's.

This info is from the Datsun 240Z Registry on Facebook. They've recently posted a matrix of the exterior/interior colors for the 240Z's. Your code was available from build dates 9/71 to 8/73. The info came direct from Nissan Service Bulletins. If you're not yet a member on the registry, please consider joining. It's an effort to locate all surviving 240Z's. https://www.facebook.com/groups/121977164809467/

I got a special dispensation from Frank T. - caught him in a weak moment. The next time you see him, ask him how he knows me. You do know the club has members all over the world, right?

Looking VERY good!

Glad to help a fellow CTZCC member.

Our VIN's are close enough together to have the same wiring. Tailights - only the top two bulbs light Brake, hazard, turnsignal - all three bulbs

Check social media - FB, Twitter, ...etc. 5 Joe Rawles listed on FB

Lets not be so quick to throw Courtesy under the bus. Perhaps the number of page hits on those sub-topics has declined to the point of no longer being supportable. They have always been a great supporter of all generations of Z cars; David and Butch have always been responsive in looking for parts for the older cars.

We really need to see the pictures!

Wishing all of our good friends in Canada a most Happy Thanksgiving!

Jeff - that's a great story, really well written. Pretty cool that you could track down the original owner, previously in California and now in the area close to your family. You've done a nice job on closing the loop on the car's ownership and history. Sorry to have missed you at C&C. We had a family event at my home that day to celebrate my Aunt's 100th birthday. As to the low turnout for Z's, our local club has gotten pretty well burnt out on C&C as the personality of the Plano event has significantly changed over the past couple of years. Regards, Jim

Mine are 16 X 7 Rewinds, 0 offset with 205/55 BFG G-force tires. Eibach Progressive springs. Maintains the stock 25" overall diameter, no speedo error and no rubbing.

Welcome to the group - all the help you'll probably ever need is right here. That's a great looking car and your description suggests it's solid throughout. Your co-pilot looks to be the right age to get into some wrenching. Tell her the first letter of the alphabet is Z and really mess with her day-care folks! P.S. - My car says hello to it's slightly older sibling!

I love the comment "Not as aggressive in mods from stock as car # 1233" - me. - I had 3 underhood mods: air pump and related controls gone, header and exhaust, air horns. Go figure. Agree with the comments on Z Brothers - what a fantastic group to be with. Jim

I also removed the tracks from the frames for cleaning and repainting but re-assembled them prior to putting the soft bits in place. Otherwise, the track nuts are a blind access as you have discovered. I don't know of any way to get to them with the cover and foam in place. I had no significant problems getting the covers in place with the tracks installed. Not what you want to hear but I think you're facing a teardown and re-assembly.

Since you're not going for a ZCCA Stock Class look, here's another BIG vote for 2-stage. Appearance: clear coat will give a big "pop" to the underlying color. Buffed and waxed - grab your cheap sunglasses (apologies to ZZ Top). Protection: the additional layer of clear is a barrier protecting the color coat from wear, swirl marks, light scratches, ...etc. Maintenance: the clear can easily be re-worked if needed, not so the metallic base coat. Earlier this year I noticed some irregularities on my hood when viewed in a reflection - very small hair-width depressions in a close pattern almost like orbital sander marks. Most important, a fellow club member who has done some ZCCA judging spotted them and said that could be a judging problem at ZCON. I showed it to my paint shop and he said it was likely some shrinkage in the primer or base coat that later became visible in the clear coat. Repainting a four-year old hood would be a color-match nightmare. The solution: color-sand the hood and re-clear it. When buffed out, the fresh clear had filled any remaining depressions. Problem solved! Hope this helps your decision process.

Hey James - congrats on your new project! I'll bet you're going to have a tough time keeping Zup away from this one. Great looking car, you're going to have some real fun with it. We'll all be looking forward to your progress posts. Have you made contact yet with my buddy Scott who recently moved to Springdale? Jim D. has already made contact and I told him you were also in the area. He's a pretty intense S30 guy and has an interesting stable of cars.

A more detailed story identified this as a software design issue - the car's software is able to detect when its going through emissions testing and switch all controls into full compliance mode for the duration of the test. After that it reverts to smog and particulate emitting mode as its normal operating setting.

+1 on the process described above - its exactly what the paint shop did for my bumpers.

Welcome to the group. +1 on Mark's comments on getting the suspension all tightened up and proper toe-in. Z's are also very sensitive to tire condition. Shudder is common to any out-of-balance / out-of-round situation. Be sure to flush the brake fluid and get some fresh stuff in there.

Very nice Zed! I see another one in the garage behind it.

Matt - for your splash shield weatherstrip and the pads under the fender, look no further than your local auto supply. What you want is closed cell strip, 3/8" thick X 3/4" wide. Closed cell is important as the original Nissan stuff was open cell which holds water and promotes rust. Here's a pic of my car as it was coming together at the paint shop. That's a double thickness of the 3/8" stuff on the fender pad - it provides greater support. I did buy new upper fender seals as its the only design that will correctly fit and seal. Hope this helps.