Zed Head

We just finished perfecting it. What happened?

The crazy tach sounds like your Pertronix has problems. Try 3800 RPM in the other gears. If it's tied to RPM that's a clue. Same general idea as revving to redline, like Mark M suggested.

That VR unit is the 77 unit right, with the single pickup coil and one tooth causing the voltage? I wonder if that's why Nissan went to the six tooth setup with the ZX distributor, beside giving a more consistent trigger pulse. Sounds like you've already moved on. but maybe a ZX distributor could get you going quicker, in the meantime.

"Should" probably depends on what the manufacturer found would work. If you supplied a brand name somebody might be able to say if theirs is the same or not.

I spent a lot of time cleaning the area at the base of the bolt of rust so that the PB Blaster could sit in a groove and seep in. Also cleaned up the sides of the stub and filed flats in it so that my Vise Grips would get a firm purchase. Then, when trying to turn it, never forced it. Once I got some movement I worked it forward and backward, to work in more lubricant and break up the rust. I waited a lot also which you might not be able to do. The basic message is - don't use brute force. It already broke once. Even if you weld a nut to the stub, you can still break it so be careful.

You might change your title to add "1970 240Z". The mounts alone are boring so nobody's going to click. Your picture is great though, for illustrating the question.

The one on the top with the shift lever would be a 4 speed. You can tell by the plate with the six bolts. The one on the bottom would be an early model 5 speed, assuming that both came from a Z. You can tell by the two forked exhaust hangers on the back, and the dust covers for the drive shaft. They will have the same ratios in 1 through 4 and should bolt in/on exactly the same. Completely swappable. The numbers on the castings don't seem to correlate to much. People have tried to tie them to a year or model but it doesn't work.

Close. So, carnut, I'll leave this thread alone now. Good luck with the rebuild, whichever way it goes.

You got the wrong guy. I did not write "not worthy".

I did apologize, just not directly. It wasn't aimed directly at HS30, although he might have been the catalyst. It was aimed at the guys who try to protect the low 240Z image by denegrating other people's efforts, and lack of knowledge It was an "if the shoe fits" comment. Beside that, in civil discourse, the general apology right afterward I offered is enough. Issue closed. We could all ignore recent discussion and dig up old posts to get indignant about. I don't owe HS30 anything at all. He chose to ignore the correction and grab on to something that he could use to be indignant, as is his tendency. I will apologize to carnut though. But, with a condition - I was trying to stop the denigration I anticipated (the fin in the water) before it got too far. Read posts 20 and 21 and you can see it starting, in typical fashion. What justifies the superior tone? Everything was fine util then, I even asked a question to try to clear up a potential misunderstanding. It was ignored. I know that you guys like him, but you can't justify everything he writes.

Doesn't really matter. Edit - since I apologized for it in Post #33. Posts 31-35 are a good example of getting back on track, like good civil discussions do.

This might be the heart of many of the arguments. Not sure how many people think of this site as a "marque specialist forum". Still, it's possible to correct people without the extra verbiage.

Here, I'll be more constructive, with an example. The replay below would have been very educational, reset the tone, AND (bonus) been "bigger" than my comment. Win, win, win. It's all of the extra stuff that's unnecessary. "The car in question is (according to the engine bay identity tag) an S30-prefixed, early 1970 production dated 'Fairlady Z-L', so calling it a 240Z would be incorrect." Then, maybe, even refer back to your first post in the thread, #4, which is educational. Again without the extra WTF's, and LOL's, and insinuations. It's called being civil.

The bottom ends on these engines are pretty durable. Might not be worth the time and money tearing it apart. Your list is kind of the typical small effect things that people do. You might not even notice a benefit over stock. If your dad wants you to get the car moving again, and you want to drive it. a simple head refurbishing might make more sense, then buy a separate engine to build. The EFI system kind of limits how much benefit you can get, without making certain things worse, like driveability and emissions. You never gave much history on the car and why you even wanted to pull the head.

That's a great picture and you probably know how lucky you were that it's in such a convenient spot. I was thinking more of the big cloud of bees that fly around aimlessly after the queen bee lands, until they finally find her and form that bee ball. I climbed a tree with a pruning saw, tied a rope to a branch with a swarm like yours on it, then cut the branch while my grandfather pulled the rope. He talked me in to it. Only got stung three times when the swarm let loose, but almost fell out of the tree on the way down at warp speed. Good old days...

See that? Another opportunity to pass on some knowledge, a correction of a simple error in nomenclature, turned in to some not-unexpected righteous indignation. Does it do anything at all for anyone but the author? Not really. The knowledge will die with the people that don't share it. For anyone that thinks the information is readily available for anyone that has a computer, do a Google on Photobucket. The people that own the servers that hold the knowledge will let them die with that knowledge.

After I wrote the comment I realized that it was almost perfectly balanced, and could be taken either way. Decided to leave it. Glad you didn't see it the bad way. It's an interesting car with what might be an interesting story. I would keep the history and restore it as Japanese G-nose (I think that's what it;s being represented as), that made its way to the states. It's a look at how modifications were done in Japan, if I read the story right (the roll bar, for example). That is fascinating history, to me. There's probably plenty of factory original restores out there.

Sorry for the comment, it was off-base. Thought I saw another fin in the water. Seems like the real question should be if the car should be "restored" to its modified G-Nose state, or taken all the way back to its original state. I've made comments about restoring before. Why go all the way back to what the factory produced unless the car was unmodified and is just worn? Anything else is not really a restore but a refabrication, or some similar word. I'd rather see the car in some attractive state and hear the story of how it got that way, than throw away all of its history. If the history is interesting, then keep digging to get the details.

The low VIN club guys have to get their subtle digs in. Your car (and you) don't meet their membership requirements. Everything is there to make a running driveable enjoyable 240Z. Value will be determined by the next buyer. Good luck.

My grandfather was a beekeeper. A new swarm appearing from nowhere is a spooky thing...

If I had a carb'ed car I'd use the big giant EFI filter before them. I've been spoiled. The filter is big so that the pressure drop is small, since the filter media area is huge.

I have Jon Voight's car. Or maybe John's...

A picture of the roll bar would be interesting, along with any suspension modifications. There are really no signs that it ever saw a race track in your pictures. Most people don't put roll bars in their street cars. I take it though that the man issue here is whether or not the Nissan factory was involved. Maybe it was a Nissan dealer. Don't know how the dealerships work in Japan.

What year, how many miles, condition of the interior? Do you have any more pictures? It looks nice but you've given very little information about the car.

Shake the car vigorously side-to-side and you'll get more of that.