Zed Head

The title of your thread is Wideband O2 Sensor. I missed the changeover point. I think that you're oversimpifying. It's a complex device.

Problems like these are why we have hobbies like Z cars in the first place. Worlds colliding here...

The ignition module for the 260Z is by the fuse box n the cabin. It's a cool-looking finned aluminum case. The gear-like thing is called a reluctor (wheel) and the trigger signal is generated when the metal tooth passes by the magnetic pickup coil. The FSM describes it well, at least the 1976 version does. If you start messing with different distributors, check the breaker plate action before you get too involved. Thee are many distributors out there that will trigger the ignition module just fine but won't have a usable vacuum advance mechanism.

You raise a good point. I realized that I don't really understand how the sensors/gauges work either (can't say that I do now either). Innovate has a paper that does a good job of explaining it. Excess fuel left over after all of the oxygen has burned apparently also cause a voltage in the sensor. The voltage is then used in a calculation to give the ratio. Pretty interesting and more complex than I had thought. It's the "pump" that makes the difference I think. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/news3.php Here's another. http://tayloredge.com/reference/Science/oxygensensor3.pdf One more. http://www.megamanual.com/PWC/LSU4.htm

Easy to get confused, especially since most "high-energy" coils (assuming means coils for high-energy ignitions, commonly assumed to mean constant current systems, like the GM HEI system) are below 1.0 ohm. The GM HEI coil is about 0.7 +/- 0.1., for example. Plus the FAQ's give conflicting information, and say 1.5 ohms is the limit. http://www.123ignition.nl/faq.php

What is the rate of this fluctuation? In other words, how long does it take to go from 800 to 900 and back to 800. How much time from 800 to 800? One second, two seconds, less than a second?

Here's a couple of Articles on electronic ignition. The various extra sensors outside of the distributor are for emissions purposes, to run that extra pickup coil and change the timing based on engine temperature. If you're only using one pickup you don't need them, you can simplify. The electronic ignitions use ~ one ohm coils and no ballast. The common early Pertronix swap isn't a "high-energy" system like the later electronic systems (GM HEI, for example), or the 1978 and on 280Z systems. It's "poinless" so lower maintenance but there are better options out there. http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/replacing-the-280z-tiu-with-an-hei-module-r67/ http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/gm-hei-module-install-r69/

@Mike Maybe Mike knows what's up...

I was kidding. 13 years is a long time. It's a good explanation though, of a topic that can be confusing.

It took you 13 years to get your thoughts down on the screen? I can empathize.

This guy, TimZ, found a rebuild kit for the original capillary control valve. Interesting reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126131-280z-heater-water-valve/ I've found that the heat supply available from the stock core and coolant flow rates is waaaaayyy more than needed. I have a similar valve to the one CO used and I had to extend the arm on it so that it only opens a small amount. Even so, I only use about 1/4 of the range of the heat control lever in the dash. Still waiting for somebody to find a complete assembly that we can transplant over that will do normal things like blow hot air from the dash vents, and fresh air through all of them at the same time. Those Z designers must have worn heavy coats and sandals all the time, based on their choices.

A cylinder pressure check (aka compression check) will give a good idea of if the valve is bent. After you get the lash pad reinstalled. I wonder if a PO didn't notice that the pad was missing and just readjusted lash to make it work. Better check lash even if you don't adjust it. Cold measurements are still informative.

Hence "boner"?

Sorry about that. Didn't mean to create an ordeal for you. The car looks good, my scrolling finger gets tired though.

That is an odd noise. The exhaust note sounded great and like all 6 cylinders were balanced and working properly. But definitely sounded like a mechanical issue. Could be a rocker arm beating the crap out of a cam lobe, or vice versa, I guess.

That mp4 file is huge. I'm writing this while I wait for it to download. Youtube might be better for sharing. 77 is a change year, with the last of the external regulators, and AFM pump contacts, and rear brake design. Beware, not all 280Z advice will apply. Non sequitur note to rcb280z - do you realize how big your sig picture is? It takes up 2/3 of a page. Just sayin... I can see it. Almost downloaded 11 seconds...

Here it is - Could probably be an Article, just for the explanation and pictures alone. Not that it isn't a good idea also.

Couldn't he go the other way also and get another 260Z hub. Might be easier to find. That first picture implies that the hubs place the wheels on different bases. But as I understand it all S30's have the same wheel base dimensions. A better way to take that measurement is with the hubs on a bearing and spindle since it's where the bearing sits that will determine where the rotor ends up. In short - is there really a functional problem?

Welcome. This picture shows that you will do well here.

Pretty sure that CO moved his coolant flow control valve to the engine bay. To fix the off-on nature of the system when the capillary-controlled thermostat valve goes bad. He could probably put together a pretty good system overhaul and improvement procedure.

Sounds like your reaction disc is no longer in place.

What about Br (own)?

When are you going to work on the no-start problem? The problem and your plans don't seem to go together.

I remember emailing someone about a car down in Arizona, about 2009, before I got my car. Craigslist. Free shipping, in the military, shipping out soon, etc. They wrote a very tempting ad. It was hard to resist. http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams

Actually Nissan started labeling their temperature ranges in the FSM in 1974. Here's a copy from 1976, it's clearer. And don't forget that jalex is in Panama. There's probably not a Nissan dealer ever 30 miles like there is in the States. It looks like there has been some progress though. It doesn't die now.