Zed Head

Listing format - Chinese, Car location - Pennsylvania The story seems more plausible though: " 1973 datsun 240z.car was pulled out of unpaid storage bin.dont know much about car.looks like fresh paint.has one rust hole on drivers floor that i seen.car does run but shuts off like lack of fuel.does have some receipts in car.also has new seat covers,and some other parts that go with.car looks like it is all there and would not take much to put on road. "

It's a ghost car, traveling the internet, extracting money from unsuspecting victims. $3485 in September 2011. http://usedcarsfsbo.com/asp/Item.asp?soldid=26075&make=datsun&theday=9%2F22%2F2011

Wow, you're right. I wonder how we can shine some light on this guy. What do they do, ask for a deposit or something? How does it work? https://www.google.com/search?q=Beautiful+1973+240z+with+remarkably+low+milage.+The+engine+number+and+car+body+numbers+match.+A+magnet+test+was+done+indicating+no+body+work+was+done.+Front+fenders+were+replaced+in+the+1980's.+New+floor+pans+and+rails+-+see+photos.&oq=Beautiful+1973+240z+with+remarkably+low+milage.+The+engine+number+and+car+body+numbers+match.++A+magnet+test+was+done+indicating+no+body+work+was+done.+Front+fenders+were+replaced+in+the+1980's.++New+floor+pans+and+rails+-+see+photos.&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Also notice that he mentions pictures that aren't there. No floor or rail images. "Beautiful 1973 240z with remarkably low milage. The engine number and car body numbers match. A magnet test was done indicating no body work was done. Front fenders were replaced in the 1980's. New floor pans and rails - see photos. "

I see, like a column of fuel held above the valve. The problem is the loss of pressure. Heated fuel will vaporize and blow the liquid through the FRP. Then you're left with a half-full fuel system at zero pressure. I modified one of the Bosch adjustable FPR's by drilling a hole in the adjustment screw. It's the poor man's version of this. It holds pressure, like a Bosch part should. Got mine from eBay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2222

You might try some fuel tank liner, like Red-Kote. Just a dab instead of a tank full.

Are you anticipating a bad valve in the pump? It should have a good check valve. My Airtex pump has worked fine for years. If you use an aftermarket FPR that's more likely to leak down. Probably mentioned that already, somewhere, maybe.

Open that CL ad and hit the prohibited button. We can at least make him work for his ill-gotten gains. Or, if somebody lives in the area contact the police and try to set up a sting. That would be fun.

Take off the radiator cap and take a picture of the coolant. Just to be sure that there is coolant now.

Look through the articles in the link below. Check the actual plastic on the rollers in the various channels,it can break off or split in to pieces and leave the center pin looking normal.. Check the plastic guides, make sure the adjustment bolts aren't moving in their slots. The fact the front of the window drops implies that one of the plastic rollers is broken and has too much play in its guide. Actually, put "door" in the search box on the Articles page. The cookies won't allow me to save the results page. http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/

Is the BAT car connected to this car? Just wondering. Still sitting at $18,750. 3 days left.

It looks almost identical to the BAT car in the other thread. Except for the bumpers.

Have you had the door cards/panels off? There are many parts inside that get gummed up or misaligned or break, affecting all of the problems you described..

Maybe just the weird price, $4082, and its lowness. If you do a search on the image though some odd things come up. Right click on the image in the ad and Google it. http://240zforsale.com/1973-detroit-metro-michigan/

Battery acid is a very good conductor. When it ate through the insulation and contacted the wires it short-circuited them. You need to split the insulation off of the wires, make sure the copper is intact, clean them up with water (maybe with a little baking soda to neutralize the acid), dry them, and re-insulate them. You can use electrical tape (if you do it right), or you can cut them, install shrink tubing, reconnect them, and shrink the tubing over the exposed wire. Easier than it sounds, with the right tools. Tape probably isn't a great way to do it because the wires are in a bad place and will probably get wet. The fusible link did its job when the sort circuit happened. Fix the short circuit, then replace the link. "B" is just the color. Black. "Acc" means Accessory, which is the circuit that your blower motor and other things are on.

You could tell a little more about your car if you wanted more specific advice. It looks like you're at the "nothing happens when I turn the key on" stage.

The auto parts store. Seriously. Get fusible links from MSA. You can get cables there too. Get a meter while you're there so you won't have to guess. Not kidding. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic12h01e

There's a bunch of products designed specifically for fuel tanks. The putty is probably easier to use, the two part common JB Weld will run if it's not supported or in a thin film. https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-kit/ https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair/

The horn and the clicking relay just sound like low voltage being supplied, probably because the engine was about to die while you were laying on the horn with the brakes applied. I had a similar problem when I was getting my engine parts all back to good working order. Used to happen when the engine was cold as I approached the first stop sign out of my neighborhood. Turn up your idle speed and adjust the dash pot so that when you let the throttle pedal up the engine speed doesn't drop so fast.

You did the common two variable experiment. Changed two things at once, confounding the results. Maybe it's the rack bushings. You didn't mention your steering wheel either. I think that all you can get out of these discussions is that it's not just one thing. You have to look at the path from road to hands and make your choices.

I bought one of MSA's packages of bushings years ago, on sale, and the only ID of manufacturer inside was an instruction sheet from Ground Control. So assume that my coupler is from GC. I haven't noticed any harshness at all, just a tighter feel at the wheel. I'm running 205/70-14 tires. Low profile tires could have a big affect on the problem. I also have an old worn-out spongy steering wheel cover. I imagine that a nice wood wheel would transmit the harshness also. I don't wear gloves though. Another factor.

$18,750, 4 days left.

It's not the material itself that matters, it's the properties of the material. Rubber can be made rock-hard also. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whiteline-steering-coupler-kit-w11044-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

I see the 350 V8 and rebuilt transmission but no details. There's a knob with a shift pattern so maybe it's a 4 speed? A manual trans V8 swap is worth more than an automatic, I'd say, and there's a whole range of 350's out there, from "dogs" to high performance. Add some detail. $13,000 is on the high end.

What's kind of funny here is that the market should, logically, be flooded with 1973 240Z's based on this single auction. Most 1973 240Z owners would be making a big profit, from what I've gathered. The 73 is the least desirable of the early Z's due to the smog equipment. Right? Maybe it's the Z's time in the spotlight.

Oops. Apparently SCRAAPYDO may not be the seller. Although he sells more than the seller does. Maybe it's on consignment. Dec 14 at 3:05 PM RWAuto (The Seller) 2 @jas280z we won’t charge any additional dealer fees, we’re a small time dealer, the buyer is responsible for the taxes and licensing in their state. thanks