Zed Head

The comments are interesting. At least two CZCC members. I think that SCRAPPYDO s the seller. He comments like one. $30K show car! Win prizes! Dec 13 at 11:26 AM SCRAPPYDO 1,212 Well we have seen them come and go lately, right! This one here is a peach of a car. The modification of the bumpers and the carbs should scare nobody. Those are easily remedied if a show car is what you want. The car has been massaged by the current owner to be driven and enjoyed. The only thing I would probably do is add a set of 15″ panasports and some more aggressive rubber, but not roll your fenders aggressive. Nice ride and grip that would not overwhelm the chassis. As presented this is a turn key car show winner. I fully expect to see that one go past 30k.

Post #208, first picture. Loosen hose clamps (turn screw counterclockwise), pry off hose, stick something in hole, put hose back on, tighten hose clamps (turn screw clockwise). I was going to also suggest Vise Grips if there is a longer section of hose that you can clamp. As a test. http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-long-nose-locking-pliers-with-wire-cutter

Hey, just to be clear, the EFI harness is almost completely separate from all of the other harnesses. That's why the Engine Fuel chapter, with it's diagram of the sub-harness is a good place to start. You can swap in the EFI harness without messing with alternator harness, for example. The bigger diagrams will show wire colors for doing actual work but the basics are in the small diagram. Some of the bigger diagrams are also on the CZCC forum. Also, I just remembered that my 1978 parts car had the AFM fuel pump relay switch even though the EFI harness didn't use it. It was there but not used. It worked fine I used the AFM for quite a while in my 1976 car. Much simpler to use the 1977 wiring and just change a few small things, than to try to swap the 78 wires in, I'd think. Good luck and don't assume that ugly wire splices are from a PO. Nissan used some nasty looking crimped connections. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

A simple way to accomplish the objective would be to find a ball bearing or short stud that will fit inside the short section of rubber hose, but not in to the metal nipples the hose attaches to. Remove one end of the hose, insert the plug, reattach the hose. The flow is blocked and the original sealing surfaces are maintained for no leakage.

It says $15,250 now. Withdrawn bid? It's in the "Good" zone. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1973-Datsun-240Z

The 77 parts will run the 78 engine just fine. If you can go back, that might be the way to do it. 78 used a different fuel pump control system, and EFI power relay. That's the main difference you need to deal with. It's not really connected to the dash harness although some wires might be in similar locations. You can work around the fuel pump power control if you need to use the 78 AFM. Download the two FSM's and compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

The 77 parts will run the 78 engine just fine. If you can go back, that might be the way to do it. 78 used a different fuel pump control system, and EFI power relay. That's the main difference you need to deal with. It's not really connected to the dash harness although some wires might be in similar locations. You can work around the fuel pump power control if you need to use the 78 AFM. Download the two FSM's and compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

Not really. Odds are in your favor that since it's spec'ed for the 83 turbo, that the sleeve that MSA sells for the 83 turbo will work. No guarantees though until you get them and measure. I'll never install a clutch and collar without measuring first.

Your problem is that there are several collar heights, designed to match several pressure plate heights. Without knowing your pressure plate height you can't specify a collar height. It's a constant problem with Z clutches. Even Motorsport still specifies by car type, when that doesn't really matter, since pressure plate height can vary by manufacturer's design. And they give a measurement that's not directly useful. It's a confusing thing. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2123

You'll be missing the throwout bearing sleeve (aka collar). That kit only shows the bearing. Your 240Z sleeve might not be right. You can get them from MSA, but you need to know the height of the pressure plate fingers. Some kits come with a sleeve.

Pretty short on details. 1982 280ZX turbo engine, 300 HP, wheels, Porsche discs. Looks like the parking brake doesn't work, with the jack stand tire stop. I see an Interstate battery! Still, good to see some Z publicity out there.

I think that the flywheels you showed in the image are all 240 mm. Not clear why you think that they're 225 mm. The 225 mm is essentially NLA, very difficult to find. Here's the image for 1976 280Z. Rockauto only shows the 2+2 as available and the numbers match what you showed.

This might be the one - My head was bowed up in the middle (measured after removed) but leaked coolant at the end, passenger side. No cylinder pressure problems. The gasket material is organic and probably just degrades and shrinks after many heat cycles.

Make sure you get the car high enough to slide the transmission out. It needs to be higher than you'd guess. There's not as much room under the wheel well as you'd think. Another tip - use your car's scissor jack to hold the rear of the engine up. Makes it easy to adjust the engine angle slightly also for installation. Disconnect your throttle linkage if you decide to drop the rear of the engine. And don't let the fan blades hit the radiator. You'll probably need to drop it slightly to pull the transmission back.

I think that an oscilloscope would tell you more. Look at injector open duration. You could go to Megasquirt or a later model Nissan EFI system with Nistune if you want to try something better. Most of us don't have a lag when we hit the gas though so it's hard to say if you have a problem with your system or if it's how you drive it. Your original question was essentially "is it right to wait a few seconds for engine pickup after pressing the throttle wide open", and the answer seems to be "no". Small engines need to be in the right RPM range to be responsive. I could drive my old Pontiac 400 engine around in 2nd or 3rd gear for most situations and it would still go when I hit the gas. And it was only a 3 speed. 400 cubic inches versus 168.

And getting those console wires plugged back in. Nissan could have added an inch or two.

I reached mine from inside the console hole, recently, when my shifter bushings disintegrated. But I had to pop the clips off of the pseudo-leather shifter boot to get to it. I was able to reach the screws holding the rubber boot and get it removed, and with the right picks it was pretty easy to get the clip off and out. But I have spare clips also so was prepared to lose it. I didn't try to put the leather back onto the console either when i was done since it's so shrunk it doesn't fit anyway. I made a little plastic ring to hold the bottom open and just set it over the shift lever. For now. If you remove the knob the shift lever will just pull through the hole, I think, when you drop it, if it's in 1st or 3rd. It's putting it back together that will be difficult. But, the problem with leaving it on while you drop it is if you have a problem you could put a lot of side-force on the lever, if the trans drops too much or twists. Then you can get stuck with the trans partially dropped and the shift lever bound up and the pin inaccessible. That's why I've always removed my console in the past, to remove the lever first. To avoid creating problems. So the question might be - do you feel lucky?

I'm just trying to help you out. Only you can say what "fun" or "better" is. You still haven't really said anything. You haven't even said what's in there now. All you have is a picture of a car. Is it an automatic? Many people think that manual transmissions are more fun and more better.

And more of them. If you want to have a conversation about how to make your car faster or better-handling or better looking, people here will take the time. Your three and four word replies probably won't cut it though. Good luck.

Fun. You're gonna need some bigger words...

Sorry, I see where you got the wrong name now. MSA calls their ECU's "fuel injection brains" or "computers" too, even though they're neither. They're good but the informality can cause communication problems. So, yes, those are the yokes that you need. Calling them spacers can lead to misguided work, like "why don't I just stack some flat washers?". Oh well. Good luck. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12e01b/14-0373 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic17b10

A followup - Nissan has had trouble getting their exhaust manifolds clamped in place, without breaking studs or leaking, for many many years. Take care in choosing your parts.

The tings you're calling spacers, are clamps. They clamp the manifolds to the head. That was my point. Nissan calls them yokes because they hold a part in place. They don't provide a space, separate two parts, like a spacer would. Not trying to be difficult, just trying to help you get your head around what those little parts do and how important they are. They're very important.

You can still get Nissan studs and nuts from your local dealer.

Nissan calls them "yokes". Clamps or clamping washers might be descriptive also. But they don't provide a space, so... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/manifold-egr/from-aug-76 Note that they're curved also. The top of the curve should be under the nut, with the edges on the manifold. Also note that Nissan did not use washers, flat or lock, although people often add them anyway when they do work there. Put some time in to those small areas. Clean up the rust and corrosion from surfaces that touch, and if you reuse the studs and/or nuts, clean up the threads. The nuts aren't torqued very tight so any thread crud can screw up your readings. Crud at a mating surface can move later also, screwing things up. It's difficult to get a good exhaust seal that lasts a long time. Many people end up living with small leaks, "until next time".