Zed Head

Don't want to hijack your thread. Just trying to figure out who decided. Seems to be the IZCC, I guess. Internet Z Car Club. Carry on. There's probably a past thread out there about it.

Weird, I've been observing the 240Z's indirectly, since I have a 280Z, but I never noticed anyone refer to anything but Series I and Series II (and there have been arguments over just those two labels). But now I see that maybe they go all the way up to IV. And there are actually two Series I's, a 1969 and 1970 version. Is this generally accepted labeling or is it just a certain club's? I found Carl Beck's page when I searched "240Z Series III". Somehow I'd never seen it before. http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

Makes sense now. I was thinking of the air hose to the top side of the AAR. Those hoses get overlooked. And they're hard to get to. I should replace mine.

I watched a few and I think that once he got a bid the number on the screen only showed the last bid made. Before he got the first bid though it would show what he was asking. Maybe all bids are off if the reserve isn't met. Still, $22,000 is a good number. Who knows about quality of the car though, I guess you have to be there.

What's up with the "$51" from your other post? Is that the hose from the cylinder head to the heater core? I couldn't eke out the complete story from your cryptic post. Why'd you replace the AAR hose? Not connected to coolant. Not getting the picture.

The auctioneer definitely said "we just sold the Datsun". I assume the sale price gets published somewhere on their site. $25,000 puts it in between Good and Excellent.

Couple more. I'm snow and iced-in in Oregon.

Sounded like it didn't hit reserve. Ended with "bid goes on", not sold. Then later he said we just sold the Datsun. Maybe the seller took the $25,000. Don't know how these auctions really work.

148

144.1 They got a new auctioneer. Sta-bil is a sponsor (just thought that was interesting).

140

Entertaining viewing, thanks djw. They're up to 130. It's been a mix of muscle cars, Range Rover, BMW's and oddball cars. The current auctioneer is irritating.

I seem to recall that some aftermarket timing chain sprockets don't have notches. It's the sprocket that has the notch. I'd focus on that damper first. It's a very important part even though it doesn't seem to do much but spin.

https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-268010/1972-datsun-240z/ You can watch it live. They're at 81.1 https://www.mecum.com/auctions/kissimmee-2017/live/

You might have a later model damper, with the timing tab on the passenger side, or vice versa. You need to find out what's going on, because if your damper has spun then it's failing, and could cause more damage than just a misplaced timing mark when it lets go for good (bad).

Might be something in this link. Different year but the parts are probably similar. Probably a good Knowledge Base article. @Mike

It's already been deleted by its author. Wonder if the scammer watches the forum.

I was just trying to help you sell your car. A 1983 350 low compression smog motor is a whole different animal than a "built" 350. Just looking for some general words describing it. Did it come from a certain car, unmodified? Or is it a freshly rebuilt engine with performance parts? As Patcon says, there's a wide range of possibilities.

I've never heard of that o-ring air leak problem until now. Do you have even have the original pump in your car? Most have been replaced with aftermarket.

The sound was probably not air (but might have been) but just the gas squeezing past the internal valve in the FPR like it's supposed to. But usually it's just a steady "ssssss" noise. When my garage pump started to lose pressure you could hear the rotation of the motor starting to stall like it was binding up. So the noise is a clue. There's no o-ring to leak, at or in the pump, though. It's just a hose on a tubular fitting or barb, and a tight clearance metal roller assembly inside the pump. Here's one thing that comes to mind though - a hole in the tank's pickup tube. This would cause air sucking when the fuel level got low. I can't remember if you mentioned fuel level but you might watch and see if the problem only happens at low fuel levels. Fill up and see if it goes away.

There's a chart. The 160 must be like the Death Valley special recommendation. I assume that Standard came from the factory. 180 is pretty common across manufacturers, probably because they all burn the same fuel, I'd guess. But fuel has changed since the 70's so maybe the original recommendations don't hold anymore.

Edited - too many words. I'm not sure the guy that wrote the article really knows what he's talking about. But you can always go back. Are you "outing" Blue as 4-6-8?

This is counter-intuitive. Not seeing the logic. Is that from atlanticz.ca?

Maybe some oil in the coolant would help? A worthy experiment? No...? I count 7 and a half.