Jump to content

jackboxxx

Members
  • Content Count

    334
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

2 Followers

About jackboxxx

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    BEAUTIFUL HEMET CA.
  • Occupation
    Auto Body & Paint

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Back to ZZZZ...

Social Sites

  • Website
    https://sites.google.com/site/my240zstory/

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'll take a shot of it when I get home, im sure its not where it should be at11:30. My guess is itll be around 8 or 9 oclock. but note I did install it at the 11:30 position but without regard for where TDC was. ill get back to you in a couple hours with the pic. Thanks
  2. Ive been in the middle of an engine upgrade for my 72 240Z from the 2.4 to a 2.8. I traded the engine for some other work a friends car he freshly rebuilt this 2.8 engine drove it a few hundred miles then decided to go v8 in his Z. I have driven his Z with this 2.8 motor it ran great, smooth clean running engine. anyways fast forward to me installing the motor, which was given to me as a long block basically, I transfered my SU carbs, basic electrical, alternator, regulator coil etc..new exhaust, and other minor things that needed replacing rather than transfering like hoses, cooling items and such. SO...heres where the problem starts: I had to transfer the oem 1972 distributor assy which worked fine in the old motor standard single point setup. I should have thought ahead and checked the engine for top dead center 1st but I did not. I just lined up the distributor and popped it in. everything else is connected I have fuel and spark but..it wont fire at all. so I read a bit and my understanding is the engine needs to be at top dead center when installing the distributor? so..I pull the distributor, I hand crank the engine around till #1 piston is at rest and valves are closed...the rockers are loose and the timing mark is at zero at the crank mark. then I marked the distributor below the cap at the #1 mark and took the cap off expecting the rotor to be pointing to the #1 mark I made...but its not. Its like 90 degrees off...I added some pics below to show how I lined it all up but its like im missing something..to get everything in sync so it will fire up. right now it just cranks. Ive checked fuel delivery Ive tried starting fluid just in case...nothing. checked spark at coil wire and spark plugs its sparking. ive adjusted the distributor in several positions and usually you can get an L series to at least cough and sputter or run badly at some point..but nothing. Its the rotor not lining up thats is really bothering me..should be at #1 ( i think ) anyone have any ideas???
  3. Ok since i just went thru a similar issue i can tell you if it only shifts when off (when your flywheel isnt spinning) then your collar/ sleeve is too short...its not reaching the pressure plate to disengage the clutch to allow you to shift freely. There are several lengths of collars...it looks like you have the shorter 240z collar which works with the 4 speed and adjustable slave cyl. But you have a late model ZX 5 speed...so you need a longer collar to reach your pressure plate. Look at what the previous ower had in my Z . the correct metal collar is on the left..the incorrect plastic one was what i found in my car when it melted... Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. I agree with you there...the day my clutch went out, I got stuck on a 25 mountain mile road detour due to a fire... spent 2.5 hours in stop and go traffic getting thru that to make it home. the last 7 miles with no clutch...(couldnt shift when I came to a stop) so I didnt stop...had to umm take some liberties with a couple stop signs and red lights... everything was going great until I got to the last light across a busy hwy and was forced to stop...1 mile from home. had to tow it the last mile. I now have the new bearing and sleeve and plan to install the nice METAL parts this weekend after I check fit and measure everything...ill let you know how it goes.
  5. Well...the problem is..whoever had this car prior to me has done a little creative work to it..they used an odd PLASTIC sleeve part# 30501-a6801 its all melted as you can see in the pictures, but is short like a 240Z 4speed sleeve would be..( see the pic where I have a 280zx sleeve next to it. ) Now I need to figure which pressure plate I have, so I can get the correct length sleeve for it...( I would think the 280zx sleeve I already have would be way too long...) Do I just need to pull the pressure plate to size things up?
  6. Thanks looks like I have the older wide ratio...nice file to have
  7. yes, the top one the the 4 speed out of my car, It had to be dropped due the the throwout bearing/clutch sleeve imploding... When you say completely swap-able , from what ive heard, you have to change out the clutch, pressure plate, bearing and sleeve?? or can I just bolt it up? The front half of this 5 speed looks so exact..but motorsport auto said I have to swap it all out. Thanks for your help, Im going to delete the newer thread.
  8. The front half of the Transmissions look identical but the one in the left appears to be a 5-speed the length is the same everything looks the same as far as mounting in the car I just want to know if there's any problems I need to be aware of when putting this in the car Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  9. Is there a post that might guide me to identify the transmission I I bought at a junkyard long ago I can only see one set of numbers written into the body of the transmission it says two 10 28 at the back of the transmission below the shifting area any help would be appreciated maybe there is a different set of numbers I should be looking for or identifying marks? Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Just thought I would let everyone know who is still having "hard to close" door issues, that I gave the "glued" rubber method a shot last sunday when I was pulling my hair out trying to adjust my latches and not having any luck. Works like a charm! I happened to have a small section of 1/4 inch fuel line laying on the garage floor while searching the forums Sunday for a fix for the latch, and thought what the hell, lets try using a small section of this fuel line....couldnt hurt to try it right? I grabbed my wire cutter , eyeballed the size I needed...about 3/16 ish, sniped off a piece of the fuel line, then cut it so I could slide it over the lobe of the latch and presto! the door closes so easy now!! so give it a try if you have the problem....
  11. Never really took a look at one of those, now that I have, it seems to look a lot like the heat sink / cooling fan for my CPU
  12. Took a early morning drive to work today...the back way...
  13. Well if it was me, and I was building my motor next year, I'd take the next step and go with a performance clutch/flywheel setup...so you can take full advantage of your new 200HP+ motor On my last build I went with a Centerforce 2 clutch and a lightened flywheel from motorsport auto. the flywheel has been in service for 2 Zcars and almost 20 years now. ( with 1 resurfacing between cars..and a fresh clutch setup ) and its still burning up the roads in switzerland..
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.