Zed Head

Exactly. Or their experiences. Some people have had broken rods, others haven't. You are a single data point. In my case, a major sign was that the groaning of the bushings went away when I replaced the back bushing with rubber. The groaning was loud and came straight up through the floor when passing over bumps. I think that if a person installed the T/C rod in its frame rail mount with PU front and back, but not connected to the control arm, then grabbed it and tried to pull it through it's expected range of motion they might find the effort extreme and be able to actually see the tip of the rod deflect and/or the back PU get crushed by the force. Maybe one of the resto guys has the parts to do that. The rod is a very long lever, and the edges of the PU actually act as levers on the tip of the rod. Flex, flex, flex, break. There's a metal sleeve with the kits, so you can't really overtighten on the PU itself. The washers bottom out on the sleeve. Doesn't mean that the sleeve is the optimum length though. We shouldn't overlook that the PU that most companies use is all of the same high hardness, and the same "fill the space" design. Not like the engineered design of the Nissan bushings. Somebody just went through and replaced all rubber with PU, with no apparent design considerations except shape. IT could also be that there are subtle differences nishape between the manufacturers. My kit of bushings came from MSA, on sale, and the only manufacturer ID I found in it was from Ground Control, for the steering rack bushings installation. So it was probably all a box of Ground Control bushings, I'd guess.

I had one break after using polyurethane on both sides of the mount. There have been several stories about it over the years that I've been on the Z forums. You commented in one I posted. This thread is about a bad rear wheel bounce anyway..

That's a good idea. Don't take any left turns at more than 2 miles per hour though.

It doesn't matter much. What you need is something that is simple and reproducible so that you can then make changes to find the cause of the low pressure problem. Run the pump in the garage with no distractions. Let it run until the failure occurs. Then wait until you can do it again. On the other hand. the last thing that you said was that the engine won't start anymore. So your new problem is a no-start problem, maybe permanent. The very simplest thing that you can do right now is to disconnect the starter solenoid, turn the key to Start, and observe the pressure on the gauge. If you can't get to pressure, then it's back to studying the fuel system parts. The suggestion to check the filter was a good one. It might be clogged, and/or the filter element might be wet I read the Red-Kote instructions and ity looks like you did things right. http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

@EuroDat has an EFI car, I think that he knows where to get parts. Better hurry before BREXIT kicks in. Have you examined the valves since you have the head off? Still odd that you got zero pressure in #1. You assumed rings but now say that they look fine. And it looks like you're rebuilding the engine with the block still in the car. Good luck. Make sure you find somebody who knows the L engine to work on the head. There are several ways to get really screwed up and spend a lot of extra money if somebody that doesn't know works on it.

Time to break your problem in to pieces, I think. Try this, if you can get the engine to start again - let it sit and idle. For a long time. There won't be any fuel sloshing around in the tank, just the pump pushing it around in a circle. Watch the pressure, listen to the pump and the various relays involved in supplying power. If it idles for many minutes (longer than three laps around the block at least), then you can focus on stuff in the tank. If it does the same thing as before, at least you'll have a clue, that's it not some large thing sloshing around in the tank Then, if you want to take the tank out of the picture, run your supply and return lines in to a gas can under or beside the car. Do the same thing, let the engine idle. See what happens. You can do the same thing as above, but without the engine running at all . Just jump the fuel pump relay or hot wire the fuel pump. Let it spin and push fuel. See what happens. Actually, that's what I'd do first, because it's quieter and you'll be able to hear the pump. You're trying to think about too many things at once. Turn the big problem in to several small ones.

You might also be able to lower the diff just far enough to get the mustache bar off without removing the axles and propeller shaft. Just a guess. Before you get carried away make sure that it's not just oil vapor blowing out of the vent, or leaking half shaft seals. Might make the decision easier. If you do decide to take it all the way out, I'd remove the mustache bar and everything as a sub-assembly, like they show in the FSM. It's heavier and bulkier, but simpler overall. Edit - as gnosez says, dropping the mustache bar with it is the way to go.

That computer punch card is pretty cool. I guess ones and zeros are the same in Japan. It says "4 speed" on the list of options.

You said that you already tested the sensor by the test in the EFI Book (assuming that you did it at the ECU connector since that's what the Book shows) and it was in spec. No reason to replace the sensor if the resistance matches the temperature, by the chart.

You might try removing the o-ring, and giving the outside of the sleeve a light sanding, removing any burrs. Then apply some oil and see if it will slide in to the proper depth. Without the o-ring it will be more apparent if the problem is a hard stop or a tight fit. If it goes in all the way you can put the o-ring back on and be confident in pressing it in. Typically, when I've removed these from old transmission, they always require a pair of large pliers and some twisting and pulling. They're normally a tight fit. If you looked at 10 of those on 10 old transmissions, 5 of them would probably have plier teeth marks on them.

The handle being nearly vertical is a sign that the shoes aren't adjusted right. I'd focus on getting the adjusting wheel to turn and expand the shoes. Also, get the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Could be that it's not assembled correctly, I seem to recall ways to get the parts together in a way that would jam up the adjusting mechanism. Maybe the shoes are on backward or upside down. They only fit one way, there's a front shoe and a back shoe.

You don't want to use those tires anyway. They're too old, and they've been sitting flat so they'll have overstressed creased areas. They'll probably all have a terrible wobble. I had a flat recently on a 23 year old car, and after putting the original spare on I realized that it had leaked down over the years. So I inflated it to about 50 lbs, so it would have pressure for another 23 years, and eventually put it back on the back of the car for future flats, after I replaced the flat tire. The sun came out, the tread delaminated and it exploded, just hanging on the back of the car with no weight on it. It only had about 20 miles total on it. You've got age and "being flat" damage on yours.

That's not really a very good way to describe anything. From your previous posts, the drop to 10 psi is your main problem. That should never happen. Either you're losing power to the fuel pump, or the fuel pump is bad and not spinning fast enough, or you have an obstruction in the supply to the pump. Focus on the pump and its power and fuel supply,

It might be just the collar. Look at Diseazd's picture. The collar ears need to ab ~92mm from the flywheel as he shows. Did you get the collar with the pressure plate, as a kit, or did you use your old one. Also, it takes a lot of force to move the fork. The length of the clutch pedal is a long lever and a leg is strong. The first thing that I would is make sure that the slave cylinder rod is producing force. Have somebody press the pedal while you watch it. You can push it back in to its bore by hand when the pedal is up. See if you can crush a piece of wood or a pencil using the pedal. That would show you it's producing force. I don't see any words about bleeding the hydraulic system. Also, people have been known to install the wrong MC. Confirm that the hydraulics and linkage at the pedal are right. The fork's probably not stuck.

Hey Diseazd 75mt280z appended his post to the end of this long thread. You might be replying to Ben's Z's 2013 post? 75mt didn't describe his collar. Nice diagram though.

To be sure and clear - you pressed the pedal to the floor, put the transmission in gear, but the car did not move when you released the pedal? I think that maybe you meant force but said pressure. Pressure is what's inside the cylinders, force is what pushes against the bottom of your foot when it's on on the clutch pedal. It's not clear, because there would be no reason to replace the cylinders if the clutch was stuck in the disengaged position. The clutch engages the engine with the transmission. It's kind of counterintuitive to interact with the clutch in order to disengage it, so easy to get the words backward.. You engage your foot with the clutch pedal to disenage the engine from the transmission. Anyway, if it's stuck disengaged that would be a clutch mechanical problem, or a stuck collar, not a hydraulic system problem. Just trying to figure out what exactly is going on. Edit - consider also a broken shaft in the transmission. Maybe the clutch is working fine.

The slot in the sleeve that holds the retaining piece determines depth of the gear. Your problem sounds more like the cable end is not seated properly in to the gear shaft end, in the sleeve. It's possible to jam the end of the cable on to the slot it's supposed to fit in to but not in to it. Then the cable rubs on the inside of the sheath, causing bouncing. I've found that it works best to pull the cable out of the sheath at the transmission and fit it firmly in to the sleeve and shaft slot, then screw the retainer down and let the speedo end seat itself.

There doesn't seem to be any smoke in your two videos on Page 1. Is the smoke a new thing? Smoke that doesn't smell strongly is usually coolant. Oil and gasoline smoke both smell like either oil or gasoline. Are you a smoker? Maybe get a fresh nose on it, I know smokers can't smell well sometimes. No offense. Check your head bolt torques. Maybe they've loosened or were never properly torqued.

Any videos, or performance numbers? I think that either of those would help sell it. Interior pictures also. Looks like a well-built car.

Stop doubting. It slides. I tried to post a picture from the FSM but there's a problem. Check pages BR-11 and -12.

Thanks Mark. Who knows. If ti's still upper 90's then my Z is not going to be on the road, for sure Got no AC.

The melted plastic might be the seal from a sealed bearing. No need to remove the pressure plate, you can take a measurement with it installed. With the collar sitting on the fingers of the pressure plate, the distance from the surface the fork rides on, the two "ears" on the sleeve, to the flywheel should be ~92 mm. The collar with the melted bearing looks like it might be from a different model of Nissan. Could be that somebody repurposed a part that doesn't really belong. Are the hole diameters the same for the two that you show. Maybe the one that got destroyed got cocked because it's too big.

Others have more experience but it's looking like at least one, maybe, two valve-piston collisions occurred, bending the valve. That would explain the noise and the pressure readings, and the misplaced retainers and lash pads. That's what those parts are, they hold the valve spring to the top of the valve. Without those parts the valve can slip down and the the piston will hit it. You can probably get by with just removing the head and having it repaired. Look closely at the round piece on the top of every valve and you'll find the two that are different. I can't really see it in your pictures, they're dark.

You posted something about this on another forum about five years ago. I had copied the link here in this thread but, apparently, I'm guessing, Mike thought that I was trolling or baiting you and deleted it. Don't really know what to do now since Mike deleted the information but if you search "240Z differential crossmember threaded hole" on Google you might find it. I think those are the words I used. The answer in the other forum was that the threaded holes are for exhaust system hangers. There was no answer on the plate. I'm going to guess it's a shim to bring the diff nose up for diff alignment. Sorry Mike, but my reply that you deleted was an honest post, and the edit was after I saw that the same name, DJACEY, was on the other forum. If you clicked the link that I posted you'd see that the name was hard to see, above the actual post. I did not see it until later. @Mike

So...what's going in on its place? 4 barrel, Webers, SU's?