Zed Head

We need the ratios, in order to make an informed decision. Kill, kill, kill. Interesting topic. Not sure that all wasps kill honeybees. Yellowjackets tend to live underground. Best to figure out what kind of wasps you're dealing with first.

Those two heads are essentially the same. The exhaust ports are different though, so you need the right exhaust manifold. There's another style of head for the L28, either a P79 or P90. It came with flat-top pistons. The N42 and N47 came with dished pistons.

I have that "problem". A few dull thuds then smooth running. Been doing it for ~20,000 miles at least with no change. The filter should speed up the pressurization process if the anti-drainback valve is working, but I think with thinner oil you'll always get a few knocks. I noticed when I ran Rotella that my oil pressure tended higher, despite the similar weight to other oils I had used. Those viscosity numbers are from a lab, higher pressure readings in the engine indicate higher viscosity at running temperature.

They eat bugs too. I saw a small one attack a bug on my front porch the other day. Great entertainment. http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-41042948

Sounds like you have a short on the grounding side of the injectors. The injectors are on two parallel circuits so one short could drop voltage on several pins at the ECU connector, I believe. Could be a pinched wire in the injector harness or at an injector. Check the wires from the ECU connector to each injector closely. After you confirm that you have 12 volts available, as Dave suggests. Measure each injector circuit and see if they all show the drop or just some of them. If the threads are stripped on that starter lug try adding some washers under the nut to keep it on good threads.

Looks like it has half of the propeller shaft used for the 5 speed, the FS5C71B. Interesting. Those parts the guy has, whatever they are, might be good for a more correct resto. Had to do some research, and my guess might be wrong.

Keep an eye out for complete cars. Many old Z's are out there, not running, but still with good parts. ZX's too. Any Z or ZX up to 1983 would have an engine, transmission, and rear differential that will swap in to your 240Z. I bought a 78 280Z just for the transmission, but the engine is in my car now, and runs great. It sat for 10 years. $300 and $100 for towing. But that was a while ago.

If the guy didn't have a direct answer about the core plug I'd walk. If it popped because the coolant froze there could be a cracked block or head. Don't assume the best, assume the worst. Assuming the best is the best way to lose money when you're buying used engine parts. Edit - everything about this thread says that you're about to give a guy a lot of money for a big problem. You're exactly the person he's been looking for, a guy who needs and engine and doesn't know anything at all about them. He'll probably work hard to keep you hooked.

The question you should ask yourself is do you want to rebuild an engine, or just install an engine that's ready to run. For $400, in the states anyway, that should buy and engine ready to run. If the engine needs new rings, or an overbore, and new pistons, you'll end up spending a lot more money and the car will be down for much longer. You'll have a car that can't be driven and two engines taken apart, and a list of things that you need to buy. Just for fun, ask that guy why the core plug )many people call them freeze plugs) has been removed, and why he didn't reinstall it. Ask him if the head has been removed.

I'll try to be a bit more clear - I think that L28 engine is a pile of junk, that's probably only worth about $50. You'd be much better off to look around and find a complete used L28 engine. Or rebuild the L24. A bore scope isn't going to show you anything. That collection of parts needs a lot more than new gaskets.

Water pump, distributor, core plug in head. It's been taken apart and you have no idea how well it was re-assembled. Looks like a pile of parts.

I wouldn't buy it. It's missing many parts. It's been taken apart and slapped back together. There's a lot of risk there, the engine needs to be torn down and checked out, unless you really know and trust the guy selling it, and trust his skills also. Looks like a nightmare, even without the horrible green paint..

Looks like the L28 might need a lot of work before it's ready to install. The core plug in the back of the head has been removed, and I'd guess the head has been off for some reason, since it's not green. Kind of looks like somebody put the head back on the block just to save space, or make a sale.

Good luck. Is the L24 engine out of the car now or are you still planning? How complete is the L28 engine?

The parts will all work together. It's a common swap. The 240Z exhaust manifold might not be the best for the L28 head, use the L28 exhaust manifold.

This ones' pretty powerful - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62039-mopar-440-should-i/ But the aftermarket makes a GM 502 that would fit.

If I had your question, the first thing I would do is to disconnect the inlet line to the carb and measure how much fuel comes out with the pump running. If it's not close to 35 gph then there's a restriction somewhere and a higher rate pump probably won't help. Just get a jar or a cup from the kitchen, collect over a known time, then do the conversion to gph.

Thought you said there was. Do you know what the fuel pressure at the carb inlet is? And flow? If you're filling the float bowl at a low rate it might be that the flow rate is just too low, not because of the 35 gph pump, but for other reasons. Clogged filter maybe.

35 gph = 132,000 cc/h = 2200 cc/m That should support about 330 HP. Your pump should be supplying plenty of fuel. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx Check that it's actually able to flow that much. Disconnect the return line and see how much comes out. Measure it if you have a container. Is it a new Holley, or used?

I had an annoying clicking noise from my clutch pedal and it turned out to be a worn/notched pivot pin. Now that was difficult to replace. One of the PO's of my car had used pliers to enhance the area around the pin, and it was still difficult. Best to find a person with small hands if that's the problem.

Isn't the bolt in question attached to the pedal itself? You could use a broom stick against the seat back to hold the pedal down to make it easy work on the bolt. If you have strong fingers you might be able to peel the old rubber off, or cut it off, then press the new rubber on. No removing the bolt. You can reach it with your right hand, kneeling next to the car, with the driver's door open. I just went and checked out my 76, not too difficult. Finding the rubber bit might be the hardest part.

Thanks. That wasn't around, or at least it wasn't easily findable, when I built mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anodized-Fuel-RAIL-Stock-Datsun-Chevy-BMW-6AN-1-2-ID-Any-uses-/162584726491?hash=item25dace0bdb:g:8fwAAOSwAKxWa1WB&vxp=mtr

Need more detail. Paint over the old paint would be the obvious answer.

You can get nice long straight pieces of steel fuel line at Autozone, for the return line. They had a selection of lengths to choose from, hanging in the back, and painted a nice dark color. Where did you get the aluminum tube with the channel? I haven't seen that before. I like it. Less work measuring those two points and probably no drilling, just a clamp.

Maybe people are confusing Red-Kote with one of the other tank sealers. Red-Kote is just a fuel resistant polymer dissolved in a prayerful "polar" solvent. MEK evaporates very quickly. 8 - 24 hours is the dry time, for a whole quart of Red-Kote. http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf Edit - meant "powerful" but "prayerful" actually seems more appropriate. Spell-correct. Edit 2 - took a bunch or words out.