Zed Head

Ya know...there is a theory out there about backpressure from a restricted exit raising the boiling point of the coolant on the engine (pressurized) side of the pump. I think that's why the racers use about a 5/8" hole in a washer or metal plate when they run no thermostat. Could be one of those "racer's edge" things, but still worth a consideration. We should probably be measuring coolant pressure in the engine itself as a guide to most effective cooling. More pressure reduces hot spots and "nucleative boiling" (I made that term up, but it might be real).

Isn't a sequential mainly for drag-racing? You can't jump a gear with a sequential box.

The noise could be from a clogged inlet filter. They don't like to pull. Edit - by the way, that 392 pump is waaayyy over spec'ed for the L28. 670 horsepower? 50 gallons/hr at 80 psi? Not gonna get there, not necessary. http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl392-inline-fuel-255lph-pump.html

That's a great reference from atlanticz.ca. The drawings in the FSM don't give a good idea of what they actually look like. I cut out the part that shows the notch and groove, although the yellow arrow is off a bit..

Here's a picture from the FSM showing the notch and groove inspection. The groove is on the plate behind the sprccket and the notch is in the edge of the sprocket, next to the plate.

I think that he's kind of looking for a car that's done and street-ready. Basically, a trade, a race car for a street car. Sounds like he's in Europe and the car is in Fall River, MA, so a deal might be difficult.

You have a way of posting that is somewhat similar to another CZCC member from Panama. Good luck with the search.

Isn't the 240Z a running sports car? Or is it track only? Maybe we can figure out what exactly this is with a few more clues. Have you ever been to Panama?

People have had issues with fuel pumps that overheat. I had one (just a tester in the garage) and FastWoman had one, in her daily driver. Took her quite a while to figure it out. The pump can be turning, just not fast enough to generate pressure. So you'll hear it but pressure will still drop. Leaving a gauge on the system while you have the problem will offer a clue.

I just saw your pictures on the other forum. You really should take some time to think about the combustion cycle and the various things that need to happen in sequence. You're way back at 101 level, no offense. Get the damper mark, and the cam marks (notch and groove with the chain tight), and the points about to open (the bump on the distributor shaft), and the rotor pointing at the correct plug wire (#1). All together, at the same time. Just start by turning the engine in the proper direction until the damper mark is at zero, then look at all of the areas I listed, and make sure things are correct. The notch and groove are shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

Set the mark at 10 degrees and remove the distributor cap. Make sure that the #1 cylinder is the one that's getting the spark at that time. Where the rotor is pointing, and the points will have just started to open. With all of the things that you have going on you probably need to start from scratch. It's actually very easy to do, just get the various parts aligned.

I think that there's a picture in jalex's thread.

The dash pot is easy to adjust, just loosen the big lock nut on the top and turn the whole thing in. Watch the tach needle to see if adjustment will help. If the needle drops like a rock and bounces off 500 or so before rising up to your set point then an adjustment will probably help. If it drops slowly to the set point it's already good. If you have your idle speed set too low you can get dying when the engine is cold also. Try raising idle speed 100 RPM. The fuel pump control relay looks at alternator charging and oil pressure, both affected by idle speed. It's bypassed at Start.

The guys doing restorations might be interested. Otherwise, the later models have better shifting and the ratios fit the diffs that are available. Plus the extra 5th gear.

I think that many forum people call those "competition" 5 speeds. Or comp or direct drive. Good luck.

What is an option 2 transmission?

Take a shot at describing exactly what happens again. It might help you understand the problem and will give people out here better clues. The whole thread is kind of vague - "really hard", "crap out", etc. Just trying to think of the right words to use will make things clearer for you.

EuroDat had a problem and improvised a fix. There are also several other manufacturers that used AFM's, like Toyota, BMW, Mercedes (edit- maybe not MB, they used the D-Jet), Volvo. All licensed the EFI technology from Bosch so probably used very similar parts.

Somewhere on the next to the ring gear you'll find 39 and another number stamped beside it. Like 39:11. Looks like a run-of-the-mill open R200 with 3.54 ratio. Could also be a 3.9, from a later model 280ZX.

Do you have a plain old timing light? Just to get your initial timing right. You're spending a lot of time on a simple thing. Or just set it to zero, where it flashes intensely, and use the third mark on the pulley.

I have a 1995 Pathfinder with 248,000 miles on it. Just kidding.

This picture is from the 1973 FSM. Yours is close. Here's a good old thread with more numbers. But yours isn't there. Mike, Walter's thread would be a good one for the knowledge Base. @Mike

Here's an old picture I had of an R200. You can just see the rectangular piece of aluminum molded in to the bottom of the cover. And you can see the rounded corners.

Looks to me like your float hanging brackets are bent. Like somebody twisted the float. Pretty sure that they should be straight. As I understand dial-back timing lights, they always flash just like a regular light. The dial is turned until the flashes happen at the zero mark on your crank pulley. The number you read on the dial is the timing advance. But they always flash. Or you can set the dial to desired advance and move the distributor until the flash happens at zero. You can also set the dial to zero and just use the marks on the pulley if you want to. So it's not really clear what you're measuring. Could be a technique error.

Interesting thread and stories for sure. But you've told more about other cars and other engines than the one you asked about. You asked for an opinion on what the 1970 240Z is worth, I think, but it's still not clear what it is. Not trying to negatize your thread, just saying there's not much about the actual car you asked about. I added a detail and removed one below. 1970 240Z Raced by friend of Bob Sharp. 41K miles newer model 5 speed flairs? real louvers and an old style bar come with it but need bolting down 2.4 BRE motor with BRE covers and comp cams. yellow paint