Zed Head

Pretty sure that they make a controller that uses a temperature sensor. You mentioned a switch, then a sensor. With a sensor you need the controller. With one of those you can set the temperature you want for fan cooling, and some have a timer for after engine shutoff. Search "Ford Taurus fans" on the internet and you'll probably find some other options. That's the common setup and control system. Here's some possibilities - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fan-switches-thermal/thermal-switch-style/adjustable-fan-control-kit/sending-unit-style/radiator-probe

That's a good find. I wonder if they need modification. They don't seem to be spec'ed for our cars. Cheap though.

I don't have any spares. Actually, I remember that I tried the other shim options because one the floating shims that I have is slightly torn at the hanging point. Running it anyway now because it's the only type that works.

If you haven't thrown it away yet you could cut open the oil filter and compare the clean side of the filter medium to the dirty side. That information, combined with the flow paths, should give a good idea of which bearing surfaces saw bearing shell particulate matter. The cylinder bores and pistons get their lubrication from splashed or thrown oil, unless the BMW engine has squirters. Pretty much everything else gets filtered oil, I believe.

I think I have one spare that I can dig up. I just remember it was very shiny, and definitely had the feel of steel.

Check where the vacuum hose is connected. Doesn't look like it's getting any vacuum. fuel pressure at idle should be at least down to 31, down to 28 on a well-tuned engine in god shape. And pull the hose and check for raw fuel. It's fairly common for the FPR's to spring an internal leak and dump unregulated fuel in to the manifold through the hose. Old FPR diaphragms get dried up and stiff also, and probably don't regulate like they should.

I'm not positive but I think that that's a 260Z module. They had the aluminum case with the fins. E12-09 is an early number. And I think I see a bunch of splices on the connecting wires, to make it fit the 280Z wiring. I did something similar to use a 78 module in my 76. If you have a parts car, then a module swap would be the quick easy thing to do. The correct module should let you get rid of the splice job. Disconnect the battery first to avoid shorts. You never know what a PO might have done.

Don't forget the pickup coil in the distributor. And check that you didn't forget to put the rotor back on under the cap. (Everyone has done it). The ignition module is in the area of the noise though. Take it out and examine. It's easy to get to. You can wire in a GM HEI module pretty simply, although the Federal models of 1976 Z's have two pickup coils. So you lose one. You haven't really done enough of the electrical testing to justify replacing the module though. You have a meter, just start probing and writing. The Engine Electrical chapter has whole list of tests, with pictures. Page EE-33 starts it. I think that he has a 76, with a voltmeter. His other thread mentioned 76.

Running rich smells like raw gasoline. Does your nose work well? No offense. Smoking can kill the sense of smell. So, this is problem now? You have a running engine so all that you can really do from this point is tune the parts that control fuel. I notice though that you haven't actually provided a number for resistance on Pin 13, at the ECU connector, along with the temperature of the sensor when the resistance was measured. Even though it's been brought up several times. No offense, again, but this often means the person just did the simple continuity test or has a cheap meter that gives poor data. It's very important. At operating temperature the range is in the tens of ohms, 290 to 360 ohms. A few ohms matter. Then there's fuel pressure. It's critical. That, and the quality of the FPR, it might be leaking internally. Check the vacuum hose, if you haven't yet (can't remember if you did already). You need to be positive that those are right, then check the AFM internals. If it looks like it's been messed with (the glue blob) then you can calibrate it using Used-to-be-Blue's technique on atlanticz.ca. After you've confirmed and/or fixed all of those things, the last one is to replace the ECU. But those usually cause much worse problems than you have. You have to be fastidious to really make good progress with the EFI systems.

I wired my injectors in series and used a car battery to just hold them open for a certain time. Then set all of the bottles on a level surface for comparison.

Is that fully warmed up? Water is a product of combustion. It would just be steam if the engine is cold.

My shims are made of steel, chromed, I think. They had some rust.where the piston has been wearing on them. Are you sure that MSA doesn't have one side available? That was the point about removing the tabs.

Have you measured voltage at the coil with the key on? That's a start.

You're on the same path that many of us have been on, trying to rationalize a solution, and trying to make what the other manufacturers say should work, work. But they often don't work. Often. So, just to plant a seed, so that it might grow as you're braking up to a light and hear the squeal starting again, on some sunny fall day in the future, I'll post one more time. Here is what always works - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5450 Remove the little tab and you can use it on either side. The tab is just a locater, for convenience.during installation. Also, note how the shim only covers about half of the caliper piston. So there's actually a small bending force across the pad during force application. Maybe that's a clue. Who knows.

Had or have? Where is the notch compared to the groove? That's the reason for the three holes, to get those aligned. It could indicate a very worn engine though, that somebody has been adjusting to stay in tune. Might just be worn out. The black plugs might be from oil burning.

You said you had a new problem. So old things you've checked might have changed, especially since you've been working on the engine.

Another source of lean is a leak at the injector-manifold interface. The o-ring (edit - actually o-shaped gasket). You can test that with carb cleaner or starting fluid. Both might remove paint though (they did on mine). WD-40 might show something also or even plain old oil, in sealing up a vacuum leak. Whatever way, a change in idle behavior is the clue.

Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature. Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck. Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel.

I put all six of my injectors on a rail with a pump then filled 6 Coke bottles with fuel. Battery power to the pump and the injectors, with a separate switch for both. Scary because the fuel is partially vaporized as it squirts out, especially if you try later model injectors. Have to be aware of the wind direction, sparks, and run-away paths. Only good for wide open but will show clogs. The set that came with my car were way out of balance. But the engine still ran pretty well. The idle air adjustment screw is a good idea. Just make sure to keep track of the turns so you don't get lost wondering where your start point was. But it will definitely have an effect. The EFI systems were tuned for mid-1970's fuel so today's oxygenated blends probably won't idle the same, for sure. I didn't feel bad about changing my settings at all. It's hard to get the screwdriver head, straight blade, in the slot, but it is back there. Use a mirror. Backing out lets more air past the vane, so leaner, screwing in makes it richer. It's an air passage. My intake manifold is the non-EGR N42 type. #1 is always lean, I've swapped several sets of injectors on to it, after flow-testing them to confirm that they're balanced.

One big weakness of multiport iinjection EFI is that there's an assumption that all of the cylinders get the same quantity of air. My #1 cylinder has always run lean, suggesting that it gets more air than the others. 5 and 6 tend to run rich. Kind of seems backward since #1 is behind the air path curve and 5 and 6 are at the end. It could be fixed with individual pulse control. Easier to just run rich on a few.

You didn't at Kat. @Kat Edit - is it Kat or Kats? I could only find a Kat. edit 2 - alphabetical... Too many kat before @kats

Are they the stick-on shims? Glued? This topic comes up often. I couldn't get anything but the Nissan free-floating shims to stop my squeal.

This link might be helpful as a start, you can dig up the catalog with the dimensions. I've seen where people have drilled their own hanger holes, can't remember why. I think it was a similar situation to yours. Long as they're hanging in the right spot and the contact points between pad and caliper meet, you can probably make something work. https://www.bendix.com.au/sites/default/files/news-uploads/measuring_a_brake_pad_technical_bulletin.pdf

He was a new guy, I think it was his first post, today. He wrote with authority about how the EFI system worked. I probably offended him when I gave my view of how some of EFI parts really worked. His premise was that the TVS was faulty because when the engine got close to operating temperature it would lose the ability to accelerate. Wouldn't accelerate correctly when he pressed the throttle, apparently.. Then everything would work great after the engine got fully warmed up. He was convinced that it was the TVS causing the problem. Just wondered how a person could disappear a thread.

Did anybody notice the thread from the guy that had the TPS question? Did he reply with some curses or something because I corrected him on TVS versus TPS , and get deleted,or did he delete his own thread? Or what... Just curious. Weird that it's just gone. Didn't know you could delete a whole thread, if it's yours. Maybe you can. Edit - looks like theirs a "Moderation Action of Hide. Maybe he's hiding.