Zed Head

Here's the back of a Remy 1982 280Zx internally regulated alternator, for comparison. If you just bought the car it might already be wired for an internal alt. You didn't really say why you changed the alternator so your original problem might still be there after you get the right parts back in to it. Welcome to the club!

I think that you might have an internally regulated alternator with an external regulator. The "P" is only found on the internal reg alts, I believe. It's some sort of tachometer for more advanced charge control systems, I think. Change alternators of wire it up for an external regulator. No real advantage, one over the other, for a 77. They're both 60 amps.

If it runs, a drive around the block with some brake stomps would probably tell a lot about any sub frame bending.

Does it spark once while the engine is turning over but then not again, even while the engine is still turning? Or does it spark once when you turn the key on and off? The ZX distributors are known for breaking the magnet under the stator ring, and for bad bushings that allow too much play in the shaft.

Check for security or traffic cameras. They're everywhere these days. Maybe even post an ad somewhere asking if anybody saw it. They'd probably remember seeing a nice looking Z spin out on the Ballard bridge. You never know. If the door gaps aren't squeezed tighter and they still open and close correctly, the front of the car can probably be fixed. Door gaps are my accident "tell".

That's a bummer. Now you can get another and start over. Those HEIC files must be for phones. They don't come through on a computer. Edit - my Windows 7 computer anyway.

It was fuzzy. I'm just glad there were no Newton-meter/seconds, or watts.

I think it depends on how fast the broken piece stopped spinning and how extended the open valves are. Inspection will tell. The back cam tower could be removed and the broken half lifted out, I think. That might be fun.

Here is the source of the color wiring diagram - https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/ And the FSM has the schematic of the combination switch. B is the key. It's a pain tracing out all of the wires. I'd draw a diagram of the socket and label each one. Then take your meter and make sure that you have continuity through the switch when you should. Also check your grounds to be sure that they actually ground. The lights are all about the ground circuit.

That does suck then. The quick and dirty fix, if no valves are bent, might be a cam shaft swap. I think. Slide the old parts out and the new parts in. Might as well loosen or remove the towers then use the tap, rotate, and tighten method to be sure it spins free. If you brought the rocker arms over with the camshaft, it might not even know it's in a different engine. I've looked at a bunch of cam specs and they're all about the same. I think the ZX's were probably changed for better emissions, nothing dramatic. After the mid-70's, most changes were about emissions. It would be an interesting challenge, to see if you could make the swap without destroying another camshaft. The key to finishing it is to avoid the while-I'm-heres.

The dyno stuff starts at about 10 minutes. 175 MPH!

They came through well. Looks like an R180. Pretty crusty but it's a dry crust. I don't know how solid the FSM data is. An R180 from an 810 would swap over though, from Terrapin's chart. Regardless, if you're sure it's 3.7, it probably is.

Nissan implies that it is. Are you planning to pull the head or just go ahead and swap engines? Did you look for stuck valves? Seems like if the shaft broke in the wrong spot a valve would have got bumped. Don't forget, we love destruction, even though it means more work for you, so take more pictures. Weren't you getting bored anyway...?

Seems like your contradicting yourself in your description. You said your low beams don't work, then said that they do work. Sounds like the dimmer switch has a dirty connection. The headlights work by grounding the power. Then you said that the stalk has no power, but you measured 12 volts. The turn signals work by sending power out to the lights, where they are grounded. So if you have power to the correct place it should get through and out to the lights. If the lights aren't grounded though, they won't light up. If you have the combination switch off you can test both of those by measuring continuity at the plug. You just have to identify the correct pins. Don't forget that the Hazard switch is part of the signal light circuit. It has to be working right also.

That's an odd number for a 73 240Z. Is it still the R180? It's still a good ratio for any of the 5 speeds. The 71C front case swap is a nice option if you get a later model 240SX transmission. Synchros in reverse and some have double synchros on second gear. Plus wider gears, physically, than the early 5 speeds.

The $1200 -1600 must be for a completely rebuilt transmission using Nissan parts, at a spendy shop. That is a very very high price. The other comments are on though. I put a 5 speed in my 76 and after I got the engine running right, smoothly, I often found that I was still in 4th on the freeway. The other end is 1st gear. Taking off from a stop. If you live in the hills, a 13:1 overall ratio in first might be appropriate. 3.9 X 3.321 (Z or KA/71C), for example. If you're on the flat lands, maybe a 3.54 and a 3.062 (1980+ ZX), 10.8.

You should check your diff for sure. If it has an L28 it might also have an R200. I never know for sure what's going on with the 240Z diffs. The FSM seems to show certain things and people find different on their cars. The 1973 FSM shows a 3.364 ratio diff in your car combined with a 3.592 first gear. But that still leaves a 3.364 final ratio in 4th gear, which is "tall" and should not leave you grabbing for 5th on the freeway. A 280Z with a 5 speed would have a .864 x 3.54 final ratio >>> 3.06. But the 280Z's came with 4 speeds for three years, a 3.54 final ratio in top gear. So your stock 73 240Z should have a nice cruising RPM in top gear. Anyway, in short, know what you have before you buy replacement parts. You can determine your diff ratio by turning the wheels and counting propeller shaft revolutions. Take a picture and post it and we'll tell you if its been replaced in the past.

Metal fatigue is a whole different world than metal strength. If the cam towers were off a little bit that small bending motion could fatigue the shaft over a few billion revs. Turning the back half by hand/wrench might show if a valve is bent. Might help with planning the repair, if you want to do it all in a short time. On the other hand, you could just unplug the back three injectors and drive it that way while you pick up parts.

Funny that in this case two wrongs actually made a right. I missed where you told who that guy was that did the final tuning and problem solving. He seemed to know what he was doing for sure. Those washers are called yokes. People have problems with them often, even the header manufacturers don't seem to understand that they need thick flanges on their headers to match the intake manifold flange thickness. Lots of bad header designs out there. Good video, worth a watch.

Camshaft. I saw that. That's what I meant about the front three should have run fine unless cam timing was off. I think I read "front fire" as a problem with the front three cylinders though, so I guess you were running on half power, cam timing is probably fine for the front three. Front firing is typical of a flattened cam shaft lobe. Really common on small block Chevys. So that does make sense since the back six valves were stuck closed or open, or in between. Any thoughts on why it broke? Have the towers ever been moved?

Could be engine oil or transmission fluid. Smell it. Both require transmission removal though. Might as well do them both. Might as well replace your throwout bearing while it's out. And the clutch is probably worn. You'll be down by the slave cylinder too. And its hose. The transmission mount is probably worn out. Pilot bushing. Probably have to remove the exhaust system, check the gasket surface. Might break a stud removing the pipe so that could be an issue. If you have to remove the exhaust manifold you'll have the intake manifold off. Might as well replace the injector seals. Don't forget......

Looks like the o-ring is still around. Not sure what transmission you have but they're probably all the same one. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control Here's a spendy one. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-32857-14600-Cap-O-Ring/dp/B01LY9R00E

Is that really your engine in the video, or were you just telling a story to set up the puzzle? Pretty cool. Not sure why it ran like turd on three, seems like three should have been okay, unless this is a case where the timing chain actually did jump a tooth or two.

The thing about the mounts, including the trans and diff, is that they have a lot of rubber. So I didn't feel bad putting a little bit of tension on them. I levered things together and bolted them down. They settle and distort over the years anyway, and move a lot when in use.

I think that that is a Maxima or 300ZX alternator with a pulley swap. Or, Ithink that there is one or two specific years that still use a V pulley on a 60+ amp alternator. It's not a bad option. It would be good to know that actual brand of the alternator. If he is just buying OReilly Auto parts and swapping pulleys, that could cost a lot in return shipping until you get a good one. Lots of bad-from-the-box reman alts out there. Worth asking him via message. Looks like you have to do some wiring. His image shows TYC, which is probably where he got it. OR maybe he just borrows the image. Looks like you might have to buy a plug also, maybe. Not clear. https://www.carid.com/tyc/alternator.html