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bingo

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About bingo

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    Utah

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  • Zcars Owned
    240z

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  1. Hey all, I am looking for the best options for 4 point roll bars in the United States. I have searched and found a few options like this https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j15/50-1924 or https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/store/product/autopower-street-roll-bar-datsun-z-70-83/ or kits like https://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/942703K/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjw1rnqBRAAEiwAr29II-fDTrPgRlqwbrRMi3HRYUqP4_CgwWC0rp-m6XlK1GD3yV2G5EVwMBoCTGgQAvD_BwE This one looks great, but is in Australia http://www.agi-precision.com.au/product-category/roll-cages/cams-roll-cages/bolt-in/datsun-bolt-in/datsun-240z/ I was wondering what you all think of your roll bars, has anybody used one of these? I was hoping to tie it to the floor and the shock towers to add a bit of rigidity and worrying that I might need to go custom but thought I would ask before I do. I would like the car to be streetable without a helmet, but would like the added safety for when I am on the track. I would also like as little interference with getting in and out of the car. Any other good options?
  2. View Advert Roof with Pillars (no Sunroof) or possibly roof skin Looking for a 240z roof in good shape, preferably cut low on the pillars. Advertiser bingo Date 07/08/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240z  
  3. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a 240z roof in good shape, preferably cut low on the pillars.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  4. Just as a follow up, new fluid and the heat shield did the trick. Brakes worked perfectly last track day.
  5. View Advert 240z Suspension, seats, etc. I have some random 240z parts just taking space in my garage, pm me if interested. Front suspension arms, great condition, Moog ball joints and poly bushings with around 5000 miles - $140 Rear suspension arms, great condition, outer poly bushings with around 5000 miles, includes original bolt in usable condition with tapered bolt - $120 Seats - $100 for the pair Fuel rail, insulated and in great shape - $150 Stock spare, old not great condition - no idea Crank scraper (up stroke only) $50 I have 2x 240z block - $25 280z pistons and rods $100 280z crank (needs to be ground, but believed to be structurally good) $50 240z cam oiler (rear shaft is loose and would need to be repaired) $25 280z pistons $50 240z valves, valve springs, and the spacer at the top (can't remember the name, but they are the originals that are bored to fit the valve stem and retainer) $75 260z (later) strut housings front and rear $500 firm on price, I was keeping them to do coil overs off of the car, but would sell if the price is right 1x 280z hub $40 1x 240z hub $40 Rear stub shafts $100 Rear brake backing plates... no drums $75 Partial oil pan (piece cut out for extended oil pan - could be used with some sheet metal to make another extra capacity oil pan) - $20 All prices are OBO and don't include shipping, happy to provide pics, let me know what you want pics of and I will post/send. Also would be willing to trade for a 240z roof (without a sunroof), dash cap, rocker panels(outside), vintage wood steering wheel (14"), crappy stock steering wheel that I can make into a 14" wheel without feeling bad about it. All parts are in the Salt Lake City area in Utah. Advertiser bingo Date 07/02/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale  
  6. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have some random 240z parts just taking space in my garage, pm me if interested. Front suspension arms, great condition, Moog ball joints and poly bushings with around 5000 miles - $140 Rear suspension arms, great condition, outer poly bushings with around 5000 miles, includes original bolt in usable condition with tapered bolt - $120 Seats - $100 for the pair Fuel rail, insulated and in great shape - $150 Stock spare, old not great condition - no idea Crank scraper (up stroke only) $50 I have 2x 240z block - $25 280z pistons and rods $100 280z crank (needs to be ground, but believed to be structurally good) $50 240z cam oiler (rear shaft is loose and would need to be repaired) $25 280z pistons $50 240z valves, valve springs, and the spacer at the top (can't remember the name, but they are the originals that are bored to fit the valve stem and retainer) $75 260z (later) strut housings front and rear $500 firm on price, I was keeping them to do coil overs off of the car, but would sell if the price is right 1x 280z hub $40 1x 240z hub $40 Rear stub shafts $100 Rear brake backing plates... no drums $75 Partial oil pan (piece cut out for extended oil pan - could be used with some sheet metal to make another extra capacity oil pan) - $20 All prices are OBO and don't include shipping, happy to provide pics, let me know what you want pics of and I will post/send. Also would be willing to trade for a 240z roof (without a sunroof), dash cap, rocker panels(outside), vintage wood steering wheel (14"), crappy stock steering wheel that I can make into a 14" wheel without feeling bad about it. All parts are in the Salt Lake City area in Utah.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  7. Wow, thanks Mike, Patcon, and Zed Head - super helpful posts. Now to find the wire that goes there.
  8. I think it was just moisture, but a track day in a little over a week will confirm. The car had been sitting for 17 years prior to the last fluid change, so I am guessing the new fluid absorbed a ton of moisture from the new brake parts and all of the old lines. I put in new dot4, will drive around with it for a few weeks and then switch to some dot4 racing fluid. I also made a heat shield since the header was only like 3 inches from the brake junction (I am not 100% sure what it is called), but the question below with a pic is the part in question. Heat shield pic is here, it is hard to see because it is polycarbonate so you can mainly see the shiny surface that reflects the other stuff on the frame rail. Top of the pic is the front of the car. The heat shield has 1500 degree radiant heat barrier on the other side close to the header, like what you can see on the top of the carb heat shield directly above this heat shield. It seems to be effective, on spirited drives that area is basically the same temp as the rest of the engine compartment, not the same temp as right by the headers. Before I bleed again I wanted to see if you knew what this thing is, mainly I am wondering about the piece in the middle of the junction block that looks like it maybe should be a bleeder valve, but doesn't seem to have flats to bleed with. Should this be there? Should it be a bleed port instead of this? Currently it seems like a place to capture air bubbles.
  9. So boiling fluid seems possible, but would it go away by pumping 2x? When it starts happening I push brakes, and get almost no braking but if I let off and push again they seem pretty normal. Fluid doesn't seem crazy hot, and I don't see boiling when I open the reservoirs. I will replace fluid, and check the brake lines for heat, there is one that is by the headers so I can insulate that, and I still might just go ahead and replace the master cylinder since I already ordered one, but I guess I could replace fluid, insulate and test and then it can be a good learning experience.
  10. That is awesome, I might have to do that to mine now - I never did it because I was worried it would be a sticky mess since it is a plastic/resin of sorts. Good to know that it is wood impregnated.
  11. I should have said booster hoses. This makes sense, there is a direct connection so going way down wouldn't be the booster and I couldn't figure out how the booster would be impacted by heat. The master cylinder seems more susceptible, but it still seems a bit odd. I did order a new one and hopefully that fixes it, it is time for the annual flush anyways. Has anybody else had heat related problems with the MC?
  12. I think the "wood" on the steering wheel is actually a resin of sorts that looks like wood. I would be surprised if it accepted stain or other treatments made for wood.
  13. Hi all, I searched for this and couldn't find anything. I have a 72 240z that has all new brakes except for the booster and vacuum check valve. They have been working great, and still work great under normal use. The problem I am running into now is after tracking it for a few laps the booster starts failing, thankfully every time it has happened it was coming back from the pits so I knew it would be an issue and could take the track appropriately slow so it wasn't scary. If I pump prior pedal pressure is normal, if not I get the booster thud (no pedal pressure until the pedal is like 1" from the floor). As you may have seen in one of my other posts I made my own brake booster lines which seem to be working perfect, but I made those thinking that maybe the old ones were behaving odd when hot. The new ones don't seem to give enough even when hot to cause the problem, but I am open to any ideas. I don't think it is brake fade, after pumping 1x the brakes feel totally normal again, not squishy like with fade. Any ideas on how to diagnose this? I can't really replicate unless I am on the track and ideally this will be fixed prior to going to the track next time. Is it time for a new booster? A new check valve? Other thoughts?
  14. I have the 5K from Costco and yes it works great on a 240z, you do need to position carefully between the wheels. I cut slots in my blocks with a skill saw and it works great on the pinch welds. Love the blue tape idea, will try that next time. Overall I really like the unit, it gives enough room under the car to work comfortably, it is easy to use, and super stable. It is heavy to move around, but I just leave them next to my car so I just slide them under and lift it up.
  15. I know this is a really old post, but I thought I would follow up with what I learned. I tested baking hoses and it works quite well, here is what I did to form my own brake booster hoses. I started by testing a few pieces at 350 degrees for 3 different times with 1/4 od soft copper pipe to hold the shape, the first one I tested with my tire pyrometer to see how hot it was (hotter than 200 degrees in the middle of the rubber and that is the limit of the pyrometer, so I didn't test the others). I decided to go with a 7 minute bake, as you can see all three held their shape, 9 minute stunk a bit more so I went with the middle of the 3 for my final bake. I used 3/8" fuel injector hose which fit perfect, and has thicker walls than some of the other vacuum/fuel line hoses. For the real hoses I greased the copper tube so it would be easy to get out. I baked at 350 for 7 minutes, and the hoses stayed quite nice, not quite as tight as the factory lines, but they kept their shape well enough for what I needed. I think the trick is to bend them a little further than you need, and when dipping them in water, to cool them, hold the hose a little tighter than the tube holds it while pinching the other sides so it doesn't have a tendency to crush to get perfect bends. Well, that is what I did and I am satisfied with the results, it gave me a good looking formed hose without the cost of the braided ones, and if I need a new one down the road, I can easily make one for like $15 worth of stuff. The integrity of the hoses looks great, but I didn't test them in any way other than driving it around. I totally recommend this for vacuum line hoses, but I would want to test a little more before using this method for fuel injection or other higher pressure and higher risk applications.
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