Zed Head

O-rings are interesting things. They were developed to replace old fiber and grease packing materials. They are supposed to have a fairly precisely sized channel to live in to work correctly. Not really meant to be squished flat. I think that I just used some Hylomar blue non-hardening sealant on mine. You could make your own paper gasket pretty easily. Lots of flat to worth with.

Don't overlook the original impact tool - a heavy hammer and a strong box end wrench.

I'm not so sure that there's an O-ring there. The ones I've seen are just two machined flats, no gasket, no O-ring. Worth removing to take a look, for sure, though. Easy. 19 mm wrench. I just went and messed with one I had off to see what I remembered. The body of the one I looked at is metal, crimped around a plastic mechanism. some have a metal plunger. I don't know if there's an O-ring inside or not. But the plastic portion was loose in its seat in the metal body. I wiggled it and oil started to work its way out. I think that the plastic, or internal O-rings, shrink after a few million heat cycles and leaks start.

So it's just a boring and honing operation, probably. Should have left the final sizing for after it was all welded together. You might see some scrape marks in the bore, showing where the fitment problems are. A bright light and a camera could help.

Thanks for the clear reply KONI Lee. You covered all of the bases. Since the factory struts were designed to be sealed and full of fluid, maybe, for the guys that like to go the extra step, cleaning, priming and painting the inside of the tube would be worthwhile when converting to replaceable cartridges. Rustproofing via coating, instead of oil. Oil is kind of messy and can slosh up and cause a grimy strut tube top. Sometimes people think that their strut is blown when it's just had a cartridge swapped for the old internals. Just adding a little more to think about. The old Nissan fishy-smelling oil is what typically ends up back in there.

mbz, you're not getting the internet. Like you've just found it. You had a misunderstanding. Go ahead and put your "Haterade" cartoon back up. I left the thread on a calm note, you have the stir stick. Carry on. It's good entertainment. Edit - just realized something. It's not "your thread". We all share here. It's everybody's thread.

Do you have any closeup pictures of the bearing mounting area? It would be interesting see. That's a fairly complex area to fabricate to those tolerances, from scratch. Matching two bores in concentricity, parallelality, along with dimensions. I made the second word up myself. I didn't know anybody was trying to match the Nissan product there. That would take some skills.

Are the retaining shims in good shape and installed correctly with the dimples matching? They have a certain curvature to them too, the bow of the curve is the contact point. You can see it in their drawing. You can get them on backward.

Thanks Patcon. I was just pointing out that the answer to the problem was there over a month ago. I thought I might get a "haha" back. Maybe the realization was irritating. "Haterade" was off-track, and a mistake. That's the main problem with the internet, it records everything. Easy to go back and see what's what. Anyway, another Z survives...

No problem. Last.

I shine pretty well in this thread. Your appearance is up to you. I didn't quote you so it's gone once you edit. Your call...

At least you're more honest now that your problem is fixed. You were hedging your comments when you needed help. Good luck with it.

Sorry, couldn't resist. One last dig...

718Miata did kind of hijack the thread to show off his Mecum car. Maybe davis23 didn't recognize it anymore...

I found the link to the manuals for anyone that wants to browse. The 123USA web site is in bad shape. http://www.123ignition.nl/files/manuals/123manual_TUNE.pdf https://123ignitionusa.com/pages.php?pageid=10

Yes, MAP is what you would change to get timing to retard at low intake vacuum, when you open the throttle at low RPM. MAP is intake manifold pressure, and centrifugal, or RPM, is engine speed. Two different curves, typically shown in table form. They interact.

I think it's the reverse switch. Looks like they might be available out on the internet. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/5-speed/23 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-switch-rev-lamp~32005-k1000.html

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself. Probably have to remove it and see. Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

Look for witness marks on the paint at the bottom of the cartridge. You should be able to tell if it's the edges like gundee shows or something else.

If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline. Set valve lash, check timing, etc. Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove. If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too. Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting. I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points. Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs. They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

Here's a few.

There are a couple of threads on the site about this exact problem. CO spent a lot of effort in them. Even made a measuring tool, I believe. Search around. Kind of sounds like the inner race and the outer race are not parallel, both cocked a little bit. When the two edges that are cocked towards each other meet you get a bind. Just a guess.

My mistake. You're right. Many of the brake "upgrades" are really just brake modifications. Anything that adds "more" is considered an "upgrade". But, if you put stronger brakes on the front but not on the back then you change the balance. You can get more stopping power with less effort just by changing pads also. It's a fun job and a reason to be in the garage but if you don't go all the way you just end up with an unbalanced brake system, confusion for the next owner, and difficulty finding parts.

The pads will always be close to the rotors, they self-adjust. They shouldn't be generating any friction though, the wheel should spin freely.

I think you meant single piston, right?