Zed Head

Didn't know that they had one. So, was it rust or dirt or what ? If the tank was cleaned the fuel should be clean. Do you have a locking gas cap?

1st gear is what you want to consider. A 3.9 with a super low 1st gear can make 1st gear almost useless. Plus the turbo engines tend to run "taller" gearing since they have more low end torque. Just be aware of the differences when you're looking.

I've mentioned this in other threads not sure I did here, But check those fuel injection hoses for cracks on the ends. They crack lengthwise and let fuel leak. I had raw fuel squirting all over my hot engine one day soon after I got my car. Luckily, no ignition occurred. Not real visible without a good eye and bright light. Age alone might make them weak, like tires. You might have to change those to modern hoses if you want to run the engine, even though the originals add to the time capsule feel.

Just curious, but what is a "fuel pump filter"? Not sure what you mean by that. Also, did you open the filter and find sediment? Or assume. Might be something else. Was the tank cleaned and sealed, or just cleaned? Anyway, carry on.

i was kidding. Never mind. Is that just shiny undercoating or oil in your previous pictures?

Blatant trolling.... http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Looks like you have many options. You could use a 4 speed while you search for a "wide gear" 71C 5 speed. Use your spare to do the bellhousing swap while the car has the 4 speed in it. If you got 8 years out of the old 71B, it might just be metal fatigue that broke 3rd gear. Forgot to say, consider gear ratios when you're looking for a solution. There is a wide range, some very low 1st gears and some not so low. Match what you have or plan a diff swap also.

I think that those are 71B transmissions. Your Europe market cars had 5 speed options throughout the years, we didn't here in the States. Looks like one has a steel front cover (older) and the other has aluminum, from the casting shapes. So you have several ways to get a 5 speed back together, but the wider/stronger gears only came in the later year 71C 5 speeds, somewhere around 1994 I think. Are there teeth actually stripped off 3rd gear from too much torque, or are they just damaged from grinding up bits of metal? The transmissions can fail in many different ways, one common way is for the adapter plate bearings to fail, letting the shafts move around. What else as on the drain plug magnet? Maybe you just have a worn out 5 speed, not an over-powered 5 speed. You might not need stronger gears.

Thread locker is reasonable. Blue should work. You could also cut a few slots in the edges of the washer and create your own locking tab. i'd do both. The problem with a second nut, a jam nut, is that it will need to be locked also. What if it comes loose and works its way off? You could try to find a big self-locking nut, Nylok-type, as the second nut. Probably expensive.

What cylinder pressure do you get? CR is the calculation but cylinder pressure is the detonation cause. As I understand things high CR needs to be matched with "big" cams. I think that some people think of the whole package in terms of "dynamic" CR.

My mistake. I think that I actually understood what you were saying the first time I read it. Then misunderstood the second time. You might consider just getting another third gear and rebuilding what you have. Cheaper shipping and easier to find. Third gear from a 4 speed might work. Apparently the parts are pretty durable, they will suffer quite a bit of scrap metal floating around in there. You'll need to know exactly what type of 5 speed that you have though. In the States we didn't get 5 speeds until the 1977 280Z. I think that the early non-US market 5 speeds are different than those. I think that they are 71A 5 speeds, not 71B 5 speeds. So the 71C swap option might not be possible if it's a 71A style 5 speed.. What kind of shifter does it use, and what type of output shaft? Slip yoke or bolt-on? A picture would be good. Eurodat probably knows the market over there and what you might have, @EuroDat

The tension on the chain comes from the tensioner spring, when nothing is moving. It's not much, I think it's mainly to keep things tight until oil pressure takes over. The straight side tension during operation comes from the crankshaft gear pulling it tight. Slack side tension comes from oil pressure in the tensioner. Rotate the camshaft forward or the crankshaft backward and you'll see the slop appear on the straight side. Chain tension on the loose side will push the tensioner back in its hole and the slop will end up on the straight side. That's how you can end up with confusing cam timing marks. That's my understanding. Kameari makes a pretty cool adjustable tensioner. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-5452

I screwed up when I said that you could do the 71C swap with your old 5 speed bellhousing/case, if it is the BW 5 speed. But, the odds are that it's not the BW 5 speed, since it's much easier to use a 71B 5 speed. The BW needs new mounts and propeller shaft. People usually leave the BW behind and just use the engine. Sorry for the diversion. What you really need to do first of all is find out which 5 speed you have. If you have the BW it will take a few more parts to get a 71B or 71C in to your car. Might as well be ready to buy them if you find them.

Nice find. Looks like a completely different casting than Nissan's, with an adapter plate on it. Not a bad price for new.

The people care about soccer. The media networks don't because they can't show as many commercials. Still, it is growing despite that. https://www.mlssoccer.com/

I tried to figure out where "Turku" is and got Finland as a possibility. Pukki is a Finnish international soccer player, playing for Norwich city. They just beat Man city.

This web site shows the variations. Edit - but it also has the common error of calling the 71B a 71A. The Nissan data is the most clear. https://www.drivetrain.com/parts-catalog/manual-transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/manual-tansmission-nissan-rebuild-kits

There are really only five connections to worry about. Ignition systems are easy to get wired up correctly. But the different types can have different problems even when wired correctly. There isn't one that"s obviously better than the others. You have to decide what you want from it before you can pick one.

Pukki just scored...

There are a lot of "aftermarket" ignition systems. Crane, MSD, 123, Pertronix,,, They're not all the same. The answer would be yes. Pick one and you'll get something, or describe what you're looking for and someone can suggest one.

I had a thread over on Hybridz about the variations and there are a bunch, with reverse synchro and double synchros on some gears, along with the different ratios and wider gears . And they're not all called 71C, they go all the way up to 71H. The truck variations might have the wider gears, outside of where the 240SX was sold. When nicoclub had all of the Nissan manuals online you could browse through them and see the differences. Nissan got all snooty and claimed copyright, forcing them to remove them from the site.

I've only done one but I used a hammer and lots of tapping. Should have just used my oven and some welding gloves but I had free time.

Generally, as I understand things, advancing cam timing moves the power band to lower RPM. A bit ironical because it means that as the engine gets more miles it makes more power at higher RPM. Where it should spend less time due to wear and age. Might be why Nissan added the two extra holes. I'd think that you'd want to degree the cam to perfection, to where the cam builder has designed it. Low RPM grunt can feel like more power. Might also be more detonation prone though.. You need to build a dyno.

Test coolant temperature sensor circuit at ECU connector. Download 1980 EFI Book, run electrical tests. Check FPR vacuum hose for fuel. It should be dry. Search "running rich" on the site and start reading the hundreds of threads about it. Welcome and good luck.

Don't you have a local tire store you can visit? Schwab, Sears, etc. When you add in balancing, new valve stems, mounting and the cost of tire disposal, you'll probably pay less overall at a tire store, unless you're going to mount those eBay tires yourself. Plus they'll probably have a guarantee and free rotation.