Zed Head

The block in his post appears to be done. Already at .030" over. eBay is probably the most likely place to find them, or that Facebook store/market thing. Never tried the Facebook, but people seem to like it. Gotta be some NOS stuff out there somewhere. Weird that manufacturing is so far behind. Hope it comes back. Not a good sign that everyone is out of stock, of almost everything.

I know. Didn't see a need to make things more complex. The point was that F54 block 280ZX pistons should be used as the search criteria, among the usual parts store sites.

280ZX pistons are what you are looking for. That would be an F54 block, but the block doesn't really matter. Might help your search. The 280ZX F54 block used a different head with a bigger combustion chamber so flat tops were used instead of dished. But the crankshaft and block dimensions are the same. Looks like Zcardepot knows where to find some. Or not. Good luck. https://zcardepot.com/products/piston-set-flat-top-l28-280zx-81-83

The distributor's vacuum advance and the ported vacuum source on the bottom of the throttle body. Ported (throttle blade controlled) vacuum runs both of those.

Two Z's sold today. The white one looks like a clean start for somebody. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-173/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-56/

The fan only has an effect at very slow speeds. If you're seeing high temperatures while cruising at, like, 20 mph or higher, it's not a fan problem. Unless the fan and shroud are actually blocking air flow. Run-on (dieseling) is usually caused by running rich, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber getting hot.

We destroyed this topic a short while ago.

I did not watch the whole video so can't speak to its correctness. I posted it for the label on the part, and maybe the video is right. Good luck.

I knew I should have taken those courses. I didn't like the instructor and had other options. I modified my post. I would think of the temperature switch as the signal. To be frank though, I'm not even really sure what parts Mushi is working with. Does he have the full controller or just a temperature switch running (signalling) a relay? Unclear. Just to fill things out. It seems to fit the subject. Not too late, for me. - https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/systems/electronic-system.html

Of course, geologically, the U.K. has never been part of a continent (you didn't capitalize). Just saying! Boris will proclaim the U.K. as a separate continent soon, minus Ireland. No offense. That guy is quite the character though. Pretty incredible, what he's doing, what's going on in general. Good luck. To all of us.

Here are the super-simplified instructions. There's a youtube link, if the embedded image doesn't show. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_8-AnEMRo

This part might be confusing. It's just poorly written instructions. It should say "switched power" or "ignition switch". One of those lost-in-translation things. Plus the fact they're calling a power source a "signal". It's not a signal.

https://www.haydenauto.com/media/4039/p-475-3647-fan-controllers.pdf

Better let Boris know. You're not in Europe. You're in the United Kingdom. Boris will fix it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Data_Protection_Regulation Another BlueMeanZ 1972 Datsun 240Z post... This is my 1972 Datsun 240Z with 69K miles on her that was lovingly restored by myself and a good friend. She was originally a hideous greenish yellow color, but was stripped down and redone in laguna blue pearl with bright white daytona stripes down the hood and hatch. When I found her, she was definitely in need of some love. The old Z's were serious rust magnets. The interior was also toast. The engine has been rebuilt and I kept the original SU carbs. She is mostly stock with a few upgrades and a couple surprises under the hood. A labor of love and an ongoing work in progress, I did take her to some shows in 2007 and she did very well. She placed high several of the shows in open class, often times being voted the best import. She did take the top honors at the Riley Children's Hospital Car Show in Indianapolis. I hope to get her more exposure in 2008. When I found her, she was definitely in need of some love. The old Z's were serious rust magnets. The interior was also toast. The engine has been rebuilt and I kept the original SU carbs. She is mostly stock with a few upgrades and a couple surprises under the hood.

The red tow-hook 73 was actually a well-done resto mild mod. $80,000. My gob feels smacked. It has those odd-looking valves that we couldn't identify in someone else's head work pictures. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-158/

If you use the GM top mount then it becomes a true "mount". Most people use it as a snubber, basically a better strap, to limit the distance the nose falls back after power is let off. If you cut the snubber too close to the diff nose then you can get diff whine in the cabin when the nose lifts up and touches the snubber, just like the typical urethane bushing problems. The top mount lets you remove the control arm clamps without dropping the diff too. Handy. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

The ignition timing does sound a bit retarded in the video. Easier to set timing than adjust valve lash but they both make a big difference.

Have you checked/adjusted valve lash? It kind of sounded like a weak cylinder in the 2nd video, when the camera was pointed at the exhaust pipes. Didn't have that smooth sound of six strong cylinders. Kind of chunky.

You could run a new line in areas that you can reach and just leave the old line in place until you remove the transmission for other reasons. An in-the-meantime solution that will fix the leak.

https://www.brooklynvegan.com/devos-mark-mothersbaugh-on-harrowing-covid-19-battle-time-meant-nothing/

Red calipers and low profile tires. Do they really work on any car? I wonder what the new owner will do when he gets this. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-chevrolet-corvette-32/

Probably have to make your own. People have used hockey pucks or leather, I believe. Here's a thread with a dimension.

Does aluminum work as well as tin? I wonder if tin-filled cavities offer protection. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_foil

Whatever was malfunctioning back then fixed itself, possibly. Switches do stick. Even a bad connection could cause it. Why not assume that the system works as Nissan intended it to and take the appropriate actions?

Explain the above in terms of the below. Obviously your pump is not working the way you think it is. Good luck..