Zed Head

"News" programs are TV shows, funded by commercial interests, designed to get people to buy things. Whatever keeps the consumer amped up and buying is what the producers want. CO's post was a good one, but, of course, you have to ask who put the plot together. Another group selling news. Question everything. https://www.adfontesmedia.com/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_Fontes_Media

That makes a difference. Those are probably the factory springs then. There is a factory service manual in the Downloads section. Not sure if the ZX springs need much compression before removal.

They're harmless. They don't even have a real stinger. They just poke you with their egg-laying prong. They don't have nests to protect, all they want to do is make some holes, lay some eggs, fill the hole with some pollen, seal them up, then die.

And a very clean modified 77 went for $35,000. Didn't read through to find out what made it so special. That's a big number for a 77. Maybe it's the bumpers and the side lights. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-55/

Clean stock 73 went for $28,500. Still has the ready-to-blow fabric water hoses. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-154/

p.s. somebody has put some modified springs in there. There's only three coils. There's a certain spring from another car that works if it's cut right. Somebody has already been in to those struts. Is it one of those lowered to the ground cars? Might be that the shocks have been bottoming out and beat the heck out of that gland nut. Won't be surprised if they've been stripped completely out. The picture I posted above shows that there are probably only one or two threads holding the shock in the tube.

I was lazy and missed that, even though it looks completely wrong. As far as DIY for the PO, it's not terrible but does require some tools and skills. And, beware, the gland nut is what holds the shock in the strut tube, and the assembled parts support the weight of the wheel if the car is lifted. If you lift that corner of the car by the body shell the wheel will stay on the ground. A floor jack under the control arm would be the way.

Could be your compression rod (aka T/C rod) end rubber. They tend to rot and fall apart over time. Looking at your strut I'd say that's a possibility. Easy to fix if that's it. Stole a picture from BAT, #123 - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-155/

Hurry! https://fox8.com/news/budweiser-offers-free-beer-for-covid-19-vaccine-recipients/ https://www.mycooler.com/en/free-bud/register.html

Something completely different. Sorry.

Found it...

Trying to remember a different name from the past and found this one instead.

There's also the regional aspect. https://komonews.com/news/coronavirus/state-health-officials-fear-washington-is-seeing-beginning-of-a-4th-wave I used to just ignore the flu, only got a few yearly shots over the years when I had free time and felt like being extra safe. This COVID thing is a whole different animal.

I talked to a lady just yesterday who said the same thing about never getting the flu. But, this year the flu is almost non-existent. Nobody is getting the flu because of social distancing and masking. But they are still getting COVID-19, in very large numbers. So there is that, contagiousness. COVID is much more contagious and that's before including the even more contagious variants. People get the flu and unless they are generally unfit they recover with no long-term effects. People get COVID-19 and despite being healthy some end up in the ICU, some die, and some have long-term effects even after surviving. Long-haulers. And, you might be one of those healthy people who gets COVID-19 with no symptoms but spreads it to your not so healthy friends and family. Who wants to be that guy? No offense intended, I just tend to go deep on these types of subjects. So, the flu comparison is worth doing but you need to do a complete comparison. I'm more worried about long-haul than dying. I've had a few things I had to recover from that took time and I really hate being sickly. I can't imagine being sickly for years. Hence, the shot.

Moderna has been around for almost as long as Pfizer. It's one of the originals. J&J and Astra Zeneca are the two that have had very minor issues. I got a Pfizer shot last week. My upper arm was sore for a day, that was it, but I don't feel a thing from flu shots so not sure that helps. I would have done any of the three others too. I vote get it.

Modified green 73. Stroked 3.1 but not sharing the name of the builder. Typical youtube video with bad music, but he does start it and drive it. Can't tell if he pumped the pedal or not. Do Webers have accel pumps? Loafers with white socks...eeeewwww. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-155/

The fan clutch is more like a torque converter in an automatic transmission. It slips continuously, more so when it's cold. I think that it's never "off" because it needs to pull hot air through the radiator in order to get the feedback it needs to operate correctly. The fins on the clutch serve to absorb heat as well as release it. It needs to absorb the heat in order to stiffen up and spin faster. And it only needs to work when the car is not moving or moving very slowly. No need to be at full throttle/high RPM if you're stuck in a traffic jam. Just some thoughts. The early mechanical feedback mechanisms on cars are pretty fascinating if you dig in to them. Everything is going electronic now, it's just computer code, solenoids, and electric motors. Even automatic transmissions have electronics inside with the ATF. Kind of weird, really.

It might be just that simple. Koni just bought some bad nuts, or bad shafts.

Just keeping it simple. There's a problem that seems to be connected to the Koni lock-nuts and shafts. KYBs, Monroes, etc. all have the same D-shaped threaded portion and have for many many years. Many people use the KYB's but I can't recall any stripped strut shaft comments for KYB's. The engineers at Koni will have the historical data. More returns since the nut change. It's not your fault and you don't need to defend the product. It's actually better to just agree with what the facts show. It's good that you're sharing the problems with the engineers. Please pass on their replies when you get them. Always interesting to see the internals of the big companies.

Maybe just accept that Koni (you) might be wrong, and the customer might be right. These guys are not "nuts" and are very capable of ascertaining the cause of a problem. gundee even supplied some historical background on the actual "long-term proven product". The product in question is not long-term. Where does Koni source the lock-nuts? Or the shafts for the shocks. They might not be what you think they are. This conversation has the signs of the guy who suggested using locknuts defending the decision, shifting blame, when problems crop up. No offense intended, it's very common. gundee's suggestion made sense - go back to what worked just fine. Seriously, you wrote a lot of words just to end by saying it's the customer's poor methods that are the cause.

Put "92mm" in the search box and a bunch of stuff will come up. There's a measurement that you can take before installing that works for most people with a 71B transmission.

I think the fork is hitting the back of the hole at the end of the stroke. He might have a bit more but it doesn't look right. Should be more centered.

It's a very common problem. There is a multitude of pressure plate and throwout sleeve combinations. Tall, short, and in-between. The cheap clutch is probably fine, it's the combination of parts that is the problem.

Looks like a worn clutch or wrong throwout bearing sleeve/collar. The fork seems to be hitting the back of the bellhousing hole. I think I can even see a mark.

This is much clearer than the Nissan drawing. I posted that snip from the FSM mainly to show the ball bearings in the races. And the "bound bumper rubber" that I think nobody has ever actually seen.