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TechnoVersions Differential Mount

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That is the R/T (Ron Tyler) mount that Technoversions is kind enough to fabricate. Many people, including myself, have these and they are great!!

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I have an RT style mount on my 76 280Z and it fixed the thumpy part of the clunk. Now all I hear is the lash in the diff and axle parts. It's also very convenient if you work on your suspension or plan to, since you can remove the cross member that clamps the transverse link and leave the diff hanging, if you use the GM mount instead of the snubber.

On the other hand, most old diff mounts are loose even if you can't see any damage. A new stock mount would probably fix clunking also.

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The black insulator (bump stop). I just installed the R/T mount in my 5th Z today. You'll have to trim the bump stop to fit above the diff. I cut off about 3/4 inches with a hacksaw. They work flawlessly.

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The black insulator (bump stop). I just installed the R/T mount in my 5th Z today. You'll have to trim the bump stop to fit above the diff. I cut off about 3/4 inches with a hacksaw. They work flawlessly.

But doesn't the R/T - Technoversions mount also transmit a lot more vibration and noise to the driver than the stock mount?

I ask because I'm also thinking about the Techno mount but have been counseled against it because I'm building a highway car/show car that I will take to the track maybe once a year. A quiet car is a good thing for most of my driving.

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On 9/11/2012 at 8:02 PM, grannyknot said:

But doesn't the R/T - Technoversions mount also transmit a lot more vibration and noise to the driver than the stock mount?

I ask because I'm also thinking about the Techno mount but have been counseled against it because I'm building a highway car/show car that I will take to the track maybe once a year. A quiet car is a good thing for most of my driving.

I know I am digging up a 5-year-old threat, but I can't find the answer to the question granny knot asked right before the thread died. I am speculating that trimming the conical insulator to be just short of touching the differential (as TechnoVersion mentions on their site) might be the solution to this, but I haven't seen anyone explicitly say that anywhere.

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The answer is no .......you are confusing the solid diff mount (under the diff) with the R/T diff mount (above the diff) which just replaces the strap.....which stretches with age. The R/T mount just puts a bump stop above the diff to limit the upward movement (clunk) of the diff. It lasts forever and is the way it should have been designed from the beginning.

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The answer is no .......you are confusing the solid diff mount (under the diff) with the R/T diff mount (above the diff) which just replaces the strap.....which stretches with age. The R/T mount just puts a bump stop above the diff to limit the upward movement (clunk) of the diff. It lasts forever and is the way it should have been designed from the beginning.

I understand how it works. There are three configurations in play here, and I think that my not distinguishing between the two TechnoVersion options creates confusion. I'm getting at whether the urethane mount pictured above makes a significant increase to transferred vibration over the factory setup. The fact that it's urethan means it will be more. Whether it's significant is another story.

I'm getting one of these, but the answer to the question will dictate whether I keep the OEM mount and use the conical insulator or go with the red urethan top mount and lose the OEM one.

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I just used the simple bump stop with the R/T mount. I used the stock Nissan mount underneath (with the rubber cushion). There is nothing to cause any vibration with the R/T mount with either bump stop you use, because the only contact that's made is when you are torqueing through the gears, and the diff rises up and is stopped by whichever bump stop you use. The lower mount is damped with a rubber cushion to prevent vibration, because it is connected (bolted to the diff) at all times.

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My configuration in the pic above does not include the factory mount below the diff. I may “sandwich” the diff with a small pyramid bushing below to maintain driveline angle. Right now, my technoversions bushing has been scalloped out to the correct nose height as factory.
It will be a while before I can test it, but with never having driven the car prior, there is nothing to compare against!

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I have the polyurethane GM mount like wheee!'s and the PU mustache bar mounts.  My experience is that it's the mustache bar mounts that transmit most of the gear whine in to the cabin.  I was able to reduce that noise dramatically by creating a small air gap at the bushing.  Typically the bushing is clamped tightly in place and that allows vibration to be transmitted.

The differentiation in usage is that wheee! and me are using the system as a mount.  Diseazd is using his as a movement snubber, or strap replacement.

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Forgot to say that the clunk probably comes from the diff dropping back down on to the  stock crossmember mount after it lifts up.  So you really need a new or good quality factory mount along with the snubber, to avoid the clunk.

Many people have found that just paying the $70-80 for a new factory mount solves the clunk.  It's so hard to tell that the factory mount is no-good anymore though, that the simple fix is overlooked. 

The other, original, reason for the RT mount is that it's stronger.  Ron Tyler designed it to stop breaking the stock mount on his small-block chevy swapped 240Z.

I built mine cause I like building stuff.

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I have the polyurethane GM mount like wheee!'s and the PU mustache bar mounts.  My experience is that it's the mustache bar mounts that transmit most of the gear whine in to the cabin.  I was able to reduce that noise dramatically by creating a small air gap at the bushing.  Typically the bushing is clamped tightly in place and that allows vibration to be transmitted.

The differentiation in usage is that wheee! and me are using the system as a mount.  Diseazd is using his as a movement snubber, or strap replacement.

Thanks for pointing that out Zed Head. Yes, I'm using mine as a snubber only (factory mount on the bottom).....however, if you limit the movement of the diff and therefore the stress on the rubber stock mount, I would think the stock mount would probably last forever!

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I'm sure it reduces the wear on the stock mount by a lot since the stretching motion is minimized.  And with less lift, a worn mount might not clunk.  When I was messing around with mine I actually had a snubber on top for a while, snugged way down.  The nose was clamped top and bottom.  I got lots of gear whine in the cabin then.

The other benefit to using the GM transmission mount on the top is that you can remove your rear suspension without the diff nose hanging.  Which barely matters of course since you can't roll the car around anyway.

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8 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

I know I am digging up a 5-year-old threat, but I can't find the answer to the question granny knot asked right before the thread died. I am speculating that trimming the conical insulator to be just short of touching the differential (as TechnoVersion mentions on their site) might be the solution to this, but I haven't seen anyone explicitly say that anywhere.

And 5 yrs later I can answer my own question and agree with the rest of the guys, I have the technoversion RT mount with poly snubber on top (touching) and a stock diff mount on the bottom,   No extra vibrations, No clunk, a very good combination.

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20 hours ago, siteunseen said:

haven't heard from Andrew in a while.  You still with us @ZCurves ?

Yep, still alive - Just Lurking.  Thanks for checking on me!

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I too use the TechnoVersion mount on my R200 race car with the black snubber and stock OE mount.  I can't comment on the NVH since it's a race car, but I will say that it is much easier to install the RT mount with the diff removed.  I did it with the diff still in the car and it was a terrible job.  There simply wasn't enough room to get it into place.  Again, since it is a race car, I wasn't worried about scratching the paint on the mount or the tunnel and I eventually got it into position, but on a street Z, I would never do it that way again.  I would remove the diff and then fit the RT mount.  I likely spent way longer than if I would have just dropped the diff in the first place.  I think I cut three tiers off the snubber, but I can't remember for sure.  It's been a few years since I did it.

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