Zed Head

Sorry, I posted the wrong switch. That is the turn signal dimmer switch. Let me get the right one and draw some stuff on it.

You could jump the connection plug. You could even put switches in for each circuit. Circuit diagram below. You'll have to go back to the main harness for the colors. Looks like you've lost all the little parts so that switch is probably not salvageable. @Terrapin Z might have a replacement. If he does you should install some relays. That switch overheats and that's why they fall apart. Edited out wrong switch picture...

That looks in excellent shape. The gauge sender also, which is also big money (sorry AK260...). Here are some comparables. And, probably not really available if a person tried to buy one. Make sure you keep the filler cap also. Those are NLA everywhere and anywhere. Impossible to find. https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-tank/

Take some pictures through the fill hole to show how much rust is in there. Should be worth a lot. The tanks changed in 1977, so 75 through 76 would be right. Looks like the original 76 tank.

The Permatex product uses a stencil. But I think most of our old windows have just degraded over the whole surface. It would be a lot of painting. https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-complete-rear-windowdefogger-repair-kit/?locale=en_us Using the small brush provided, apply the repair compound over the top of the stencil. (E) Make sure that the repair compound overlaps with both ends of the broken line. Wait for the surface to become tack free. Repeat the application procedure three (3) times. Look through the window from the inside; there should be no light showing through the repaired area. If light shows through, apply another coat of repair compound.

This looks new. Don't remember seeing it before. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09117-Complete-Window-Defogger/dp/B000ALBZJY

As I understand it they are baked on during window manufacture. I don't think that they can be scraped off. I remember somebody posting a better web page about it, maybe even a video, but here's good old Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defogger "These conductors may be composed of a silver-ceramic material printed and baked onto the interior surface of the glass, "

I don't know how real this site might be, I've never seen them before. But the part number came up. Not sure if "A tube center" is the same thing. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/exhaust-tube-muffler/to-jul-73/5 https://nissangenuine.com/nissan/nissan-20050e4150-a-tube-center/

Also helps explain why some of us get weird ads pertaining to nothing we've ever looked at. One of our fellow members has been looking at dirty ear wax products! Please stop! (Actually, the dirty ear wax ads have stopped. Thank you). "It starts showing ME different ads based on the people AROUND me."

I just came across this thing about tracking apps. Last year I went to a local store and was looking at crock pots. When I got home and got on the internet there were crock pot ads. Part of my brain, actually most of it, knew that my phone location must have shown that I was hanging out in that section of the store, and that information was then connected to my email account and when i was logged on the "internet" knew that this computer user had been in that store in that section. But another part of my brain said "nah, that's too crazy". This guy's Twitter story might help some of you realize that you're not paranoid. People really are watching you.

Does Nissan stamp numbers on their rods and caps? Or does it look like somebody has been in there before? The bearing wear seems odd, but I'm not an expert. Haven't seen many.

site, I think you got your heater hose memory backward. People get a hard time on the forums if they bypass the heater core, connecting the head outlet to the pump inlet. The best way is to block it completely, if you just need to get by until you can buy new hoses. If you use a bypass hose then hot coolant that has not gone through the radiator is passed right back in to the water pump. Lowers the effectiveness of the cooling system. dylancorrea those are the original hoses. They could split at any moment, spewing coolant everywhere and letting your engine overheat. Then you probably will need a new head gasket. It's pretty common for those old hoses to blow. 5/8" heater hose from any auto parts store will work.

I was joking about transmission fluid being good rust protection. My car had the same spray pattern. The rear seal of the transmission leaks a little and the propeller shaft sprays it around. It's just a sign that somebody has been driving it. The rear transmission seal is easy to replace. You can do it with the transmission in the car.

I listened to the video again and I'm going to change my thought to finding a loose part under the valve cover. A lash pad popped out or rocker arm came off or something. You can see the engine shaking like it's running on 5.

The last tags shown are 1998 California. But it looks like the current owner has been driving it. It has the typical transmission fluid pattern underneath. Leaky seal. Rust protection. Looks like a solid foundation for a nice 240Z. It's a crusty survivor.

The car looks like it's never had any restoration attempted. What you see is what you get. The "made for" tags are kind of odd. Maybe it was a gift to General Westerberg. And looks like somebody was trying out their new label maker.

Erie is one of those "Why do people live here" kind of places. Wonder why the guy wants to get rid of his new hobby. No members close to there, according to the map.

I'm no expert but the pictures look good. The seller should really have a driving/running video. Odd that there's no reserve now but there was before. These plastic things drilled or stuck on to the body are odd. Not sure what's going on there.

I thought of CO too but I used to live by Philly and Pittsburgh is quite a drive. Just post up the ad. Odds are that anybody here already owns one and is not going to scoop you. We can do pretty good forensics from the pictures.

This is absurd, of course, but it sounded like a dry knock not a wet knock. Check your damper/crank pulley. I saw the rust title and the number of pages and can't really remember all of the details of this car and engine. Might be worth writing up a new "state of the situation" post.

It depends on how you use it. If you use the GM transmission mount on the top you can leave the Nisan bottom mount out completely.

It's only the diff mount that changed. Nissan created new parts to move the diff back so that it was aligned with the wheel centers. A new mount, mustache bar and propeller shaft. You can tell if you have the early style by eyeballing the half-shafts. If they aren't at 90 degrees with the wheels they're the early style.

Somebody on CZCC posted about their using a solid mount not too long ago. It probably transmits diff howl to the cabin, especially if you also have polyurethane crossmember mounts. The race car guys have pictures of the bolt holes tearing out to to metal fatigue, but that's probably just a high-torque/abuse problem. MSA sells them also. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2296 The Technoversion mount is always worth considering. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

Take your multimeter and see if it's a ground wire (connected to the negative battery cable). Ground wires connect to E(earth). Earth = Ground.

https://tameson.com/about-us.html https://tameson.com/choosing-an-ac-or-dc-coil-for-a-solenoid-valve.html#:~:text=Solenoid working principles&text=Solenoids are electromechanical devices that,such as iron or steel. The polarity of the electrical contacts is not important with AC and DC solenoid valves. With AC solenoid valves, this might be obvious because the current switches polarity twice per period anyway. With DC solenoid valves the reasoning is that current passing through the coil creates an electromagnet which produces an attractive force on the armature. When current is applied through the coil, the armature will always be pulled towards the coil, regardless of the contact and current polarity.