Zed Head

Did you see the wheels part?

This 1 almost looks engraved. There's no distortion.

Went out to BAT searching for "1"'s. Surprisingly hard to find.

That fan clutch looks fine. Loose when cold, tightens up when it gets hot.

Look at these two guys. They have no idea why they're there. It's just a vandal party. Probably father and son.

There seems to be a bigger problem with just knowing why people believe what they believe. The woman that got killed was a military veteran and worked in security. What was she doing rushing the Capitol building? What was she supporting? https://www.kusi.com/kusi-news-confirms-identity-of-woman-shot-and-killed-inside-us-capitol/ The woman is Ashli Babbit, a 14-year veteran, who served four tours with the US Air Force, and was a high level security official throughout her time in service. Her husband says she was a strong supporter of President Trump, and was a great patriot to all who knew her.

Put a hose in the top and see how fast it drains out the bottom. That will be a clue. It should flow a lot of water through the cooling channels. There are still radiator shops out there that can boil them out and pressure check them if it's slow. I messed around with my bad radiator for a couple of years. The $120 I spent on the Murray cheapo was well worth it.

If you want to get COVID-19, here's where to go. https://www.abc15.com/news/coronavirus/arizona-has-highest-rate-of-covid-19-in-the-world-latest-data-shows

I bought one of these but it looks like the price has gone up by about 100. Spendy. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-heat-transfer-4283/cooling---heating-16773/radiator-20386/radiator-11357/02ac48565f9e/murray-heat-transfer-radiator/433634/4459519/1976/nissan/280z?q=radiator&pos=0

I think that you just need to know how the regulator works. The mechanism of pressure control. You can use a bypass regulator with three ports and make it do whatever you want, deadhead or bypass the carbs. That's how Aeromotive does theirs. I don't really understand how the Figure 1 regulator does its thing. I'll have to dig in to it. I do know though the pump will put out maximum pressure in that type of system, so if you have a high flow/high pressure pump in a Figure 1 setting, it's going to be working hard but pushing nowhere. Probably the noisiest possible configuration. I think these things are why the car manufacturers control the pump power with the ECU now. They lower voltage at low need, and raise it at high. Flow control.

Not sure what format you pasted there but those videos have no visuals on my computer. A picture might be better.

Somebody died there today, from a bullet, but there's not much reporting about it. I've only seen that "she was among the protesters".

My internet connection went down for a couple of minutes while this was going on. I started to wonder if there might really be a coordinated effort. Who knows. But, It's back.

Clowns exposed.

Really look concerned about the "stolen election". Looters.

This is like one of those ED commercials.

That's getting deep Mark. Some of it is just "look at me", the internet generation also, I think. Just a giant Instagram party.

Big picture-wise, probably best that this happens now. So people understand what's possible and prepare for it next time. The news shows keep it calling it a coup attempt, but that implies a plan for after the takeover. It's really just a bunch of people looking for somewhere to tear things up, no plan. A big flag-waving party. They're in, what do they do now?

Baby chews, baby chews. Okay to spit up now and then...

Seems weird that my package of Made in China KN95 masks are coming from Georgia. Tracking the package as I watch Trump's "supporters" storm the Capitol building. Strange times... January 5, 2021 at 9:40 am Departed Shipping Partner Facility, USPS Awaiting Item JEFFERSON, GA 30549 https://covidactnow.org/us/georgia-ga?s=1490446

Here's a shift fork problem, check those.

I haven't looked but I seem to recall Dave WM, and maybe others, not finding the destroyed adapter plate bearings until they took things apart. Some people rebuilt their transmission's for synchros and found the bad bearings by accident. Most people are surprised at how well the transmissions work even with all of the damage. If you didn't find any metal it might be that somebody already cleaned the drain plug. Anyway, I think you need to tear it down all the way. zKars, Dave WM, EuroDat, others I'm not remembering have all written some good stuff about it. I'll post links as I find them.

You'll need the fluid reservoir that the pump fits. It's fitted and sealed at the bottom of the reservoir. Might as well power up the pump and make sure it spins. Some don't.

I think that "dead head" and "return" refer to the style of the system, not anything to do with the regulator. The regulator itself will still bypass overpressure fuel back to the tank, or stop producing flow at a certain pressure value. So you could put the regulator back at the tank and run a deadhead system, or at the end of the rail. You could even put the regulator farther down the return line, not right at the engine or carbs. The regulator will always use whatever pressure the pump can supply though, so flow isn't a huge concern to the regulator. Any flow problems will probably come from the lines and filters along the way. The original system uses a blockage in the line, the orifice, because the mechanical pumps have an internal pressure limiting system, with the valves that open up inside stopping pressure buildup. With an electric pump I think the pressure range that they show is probably the result of voltage swings, which cause motor RPM changes. Idle voltage gives low flow/pressure, charging voltage gives high. So with orifice control you'll probably always have pressure swings in the system. But the needle valve in the float bowl should block that pressure from affecting carb performance. I've not really understood why pressure control is so critical on these carbs. The floats should rise, the needle valve closes, and the fuel in the carb is at atmospheric pressure, supposedly. The pressure in the fuel lines can fluctuate but the needle valve should be blocking that from the float bowl. Maybe the float design is weak. Maybe it's not the carbs, but the supply lines. Don't know but you don't see so much discussion about the topic for typical Holleys or Carters or whatever. They all use floats and needle valves. Here's a basic article from the global computer file system. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/the-answers-deatschwerks-responses-to-your-fuel-system-questions/ Does the location of the fuel pressure regulator matter at all in a return-style system? Does it make a difference if I run the regulator before or after the fuel rails? – Robert C. A true return-style fuel system places the regulator after the fuel rails. A dead-head fuel system places the regulator before the fuel rails, but on the engine-side of the firewall. As with everything, there are pros and cons to the different systems. A return-style system provides the most stable fuel pressure and the highest flow potential. This is the most common set-up for aftermarket performance fuel systems and is the best option for builds with really big fuel demands. Dead-head fuel systems are usually used when the customer has OE rails that have no provisions for a return line, and they don’t want the added expense of aftermarket rails and additional lines and fittings. They also provide a cleaner looking engine bay by eliminating some of the “unnecessary” plumbing. The only downside with this style versus return-style is they are more susceptible to fuel rail hammer and fuel pressure spikes in rapid transitions from high to low fuel demand. If I were building a 1,000-horsepower or bigger system, I would go with full return-style. In anything else, it doesn’t really matter.

I wasn't thinking that your damper had fallen apart. Are you sure that the pulley matches the spot on the hub that it did before it fell apart? Match the rust or paint marks, I guess.