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About julitoMX_1964

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  • Member ID: 34520

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  • Joined: 05/21/2020

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  • Map Location
    Mexico City
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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Unrestored red 1972 240Z

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    Julio MG

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  1. https://www.mobilgaz.net/wp/product/datsun-240z-gauge-face-full-kit/
  2. That´s great! In the meanwhile, Seppi72 could you also provide me with the measurements? Thanks in advance.
  3. Thanks! Iwas thinking PS because the machine I can make these tests with is not a fully professional or industrial grade one, it´s mainly for decorative crafts and stuff like that, but I can have access for free and can do some experiments. I´m not sure if it´ll be strong enough for ABS (if the sheet is thin enough, maybe, I don´t know)...and even if it wasn ´t or for some other reason I had to settle with PS, I was thinking about reinforcing the piece afterwards with fiberglass for example. Maybe the thermoformed piece can serve as a mold for actual fiberglass castings? Anyway this will be trial and error...and basically for the fun of it.
  4. @Seppi72 I didn´t mean polistyrene (the white porous stuff that ´s used in packaging, etc..) but styrene plastic, the material most car and airplane models are made of. I think each material goes by diferent names according to each country. Anyway I´ll be very grateful if you can supply the measurements. I really don´t know if what I intend to do will be succesful so I can´t make any promises, , but I´m willing to try and report back here what the results are. Obviously if the benefit can be shared with others all the better.
  5. @Seppi72 Hello, my 72 doesn ´t have the glove box insert and I was also looking at alternatives other than the aluminum or cardboard ones, but instead of fiberglass I was thinking that since I have access to consumer grade thermoforming equipment I could try it with styrene sheets or laminated PVC which I can easily find in local crafts stores, but I would need a (more or less) complete piece or object of simmilar size to use as a mold or pattern. Do you think you could take some mesaurements of your cardboard insert and post them here? It doesn ´t have to be super precise or of every shape and angle, just the most general outline measures so I can make a mock up and mold the piece (or pieces) from it.
  6. No. The distributor is still the old point and condenser one. I relly don´t know why they discarded the ballast resistor. I removed the coil and oddly there´s nothing written on it, no brand name, model number or any other indication (for instance, wheter or not it has an integrated resistance, etc) I just got a new one that seems to match the factory specs and a new ballast resistor. I ´ll connect everything as it should (by the way, does anybody have a simplified coil/resistor/distributor diagram? I have the FSM butsometimes it gets a little confusion for me) Interesting that you mention the ZX distributor swap, latter down the road I hope to switch to an electronic ignition system and it seems like a fool proof option (if I can find one in good shape), if I can´t do that, maybe the 123 Ignition one? The pertronix adaptation is out of the question since it doesn´t seem to work with automatic transmition cars like mine (Am I correct on this?)
  7. Thanks! Indeed my plan is to use a Ballast resistor, now I´ll check if they just disconnected, bypassed or cut any wires when they put that old coil. I´ll let you know how it turns out!
  8. Hello everyone, greetings from Mexico City. My 240Z has been stored for a number of years and I´m decided to finally start working on it (a number of personal issues had prevented it so far) I have another post with its presentation in this club and received great feedback and some nice tips regarding a first restart of the engine after years of inactivity. Among the things I´m planning to do is an engine tune up and connect everything as the factory indicated. The engine is pretty much stock but it seems a couple of things have been fiddled with (for example, there is no ballast resistor, it seems to have been removed, a couple of wires are disconnected, etc) At some later point I intend to switch to an electronic ignition but right now I just want it to start and run on factory specs in order to diagnose the engine´s condition as precisely as possible. I already have the usual parts; points, condensers (the car is automatic), distributor cap and rotor , new ballast resistor (rated at 1.5 Ohms I think) spark plugs, spark plug cables. I still haven´t bought the ignition coil tho, and here´s where I´d appreciate your advice. Of course there are a lot of places, stores, on line sellers, etc where one can purchase an ignition coil for this car...but it caught my attention that most vendors either don´t publish the coil´s technical specs (most times it just states wheter it will or won´t fit your car model) or when the specs are available, they are not what the FSM indicates. The FSM indicates a Primary Resistance of 1.5 to 1.7, a Secondary Resistance of 9.5 to 11.6 and a 1.6 Ohm external resistor. So my actual question is the following; I was browsing through some local sites that published their coils´specs and found a local brand with a model that has a Primary Resistance of 1.6, a Secondary Resistance of 9.5 and require an external resistor of 1.35 Ohms, the application list says it´s meant for older Ford and GMC V8 engines (the Datsun Z cars were never sold in Mexico at that time) My question is: Would this coil work for my 240Z? Also I found the specs for the Duralast C831 at the local Autozone site and are as follows: Primary Resistance of 1.1 to 1.9, Secondary Resistance of 7.5 to 13.0 and no mention of an external resistor, and its supposed to fit my car according to them. Would this be also a reasonable choice? I really don´t need right now the best brand or model, the highest performance or even durability, I just need the car to perform within "normal" conditions in order to decide what or how much work the rest of the engine needs. What do you think?
  9. Hello everyone. I have almost the same problem with my ´72 240Z, but in my case it´s regarding the side fender DATSUN emblems. they filled the holes when they painted the car years ago and recently I bought a pair of new emblems. The paint itself is in good condition so I´d prefer not to have to sand the area to locate those little holes. I hope somebody can help me. Thank you in advance.
  10. Good idea, I was just thinking about spraying some black paint. But the textured finnish seem better. thak you!
  11. Greetings again! So I decided to try and fix it. I did some research online and of the many methods and tips I found I chose three as the ones more fitted for the task (and my experience or lack of) ; first the super (crazy) glue and baking soda method, second was two part epoxy glue/resin and finally, fiberglass and its correspondent resin as the third option (I had never worked with it but was curious so it seemed a good opportunity to practice)Since I was not sure which one ´d give the best results I decided to use them all three (yes, its overkill but I didn´t want to take any chances, the piece is so fragile it could break again even after a "succesful" repair) after purchasing all I needed to do it, I started by cleaning an sanding the whole back side, I couldn ´t believe how brittle that old plastic is, just by manipulating it I made a new crack on it (fortunately not very large), the super glue/baking soda method is surprisingly good (provided you align the pieces to be joined very carefully) and dries really fast, then I mixed and applied the two part epoxy (the one I used is suposedly filled also with "metal particles" or something, it ´s recomended to fix gas tank and radiator seals and you have to mix it and apply it very fast because it starts its curing process right away, at that point i also put a coulpe of metal strips I hd lying around for extra reinforcement, after the epoxy was fully cured one or two days after I proceeded to apply the fiberglass and resin following the instructions on the kit I bought and when the fiberglass was also fully cured a couple of days later I decided to give the whole area a couple of coats of undercoating/bedliner paint with a brush to give the whole repair a more finished appearence (it also gives the piece a little bit more of "body", it feels stronger than before in general) As you can see in the last picture a fine crack is still visible on the front side but I haven´t painted it yet, that will be the last step before installing the trim on the car. I´m pretty happy with the result and even with the combination of different methods it was still far cheaper than buying a new or used piece again.
  12. How much is the "240Z" rear emblem?
  13. Thanks for your comments! I ´m not sure I´ll be able to get a refund (the guy will surely blame the shipping service and viceversa) but since I was thinking about buying more stuff from him I might ask for a future discount as Zed Head suggested. I ´ll experiment a little and if I can salvage it I´ll report back to share the method with the best results, maybe it´ll will help others. Like I said I don´t need it to be perfect since I´m more concerned about findding a good speaker solution and that back trim will probably be aout of sight. In the menantime, Merry Christmas to all! please take care.
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