Zed Head

I don't think that I've ever seen all four switches on a ZX transmission. I think that two is more common. But it's easy to tell close and far apart by the exhaust hangers on the back and the reverse lockout plate on the side, among other clues. On the diff, it's easier to determine ratio than it sometimes seems. If you can get the back end of the car up, one easy way is to lay on your back under the diff, reach out and turn both tires one revolution at the same time. Count the number of times the pinion flange turns. You don't have to worry about the decimals. 3.54 = ~3 1/2, 3.9 = ~4, 3.7 = ~ 3 3/4. Mark the tires and the flange and just make sure that both tires end up at the same spot. If they get off a bit in the middle it doesn't matter. You can also check ratios on your transmission by marking the input and output shafts and counting/estimating. 3.321 is quite a bit different than 3.062. If you use a piece of tape on the output you don't have to be right over top of it to see when it's made a full turn.

The difference in shape is very apparent. I'd go with the pictures. Many errors in the various databases that are floating around out on the internet. Here's examples from zcarsource. They seem to be reputable. https://zcarsource.com/reconditioned-original-280z-gas-tank-for-the-1977-78-datsun-280z/ https://zcarsource.com/reconditioned-original-280z-gas-tank-for-the-1975-76-datsun-280z/

I picked Ford just for fun but there's a selection of 280Z pumps also. The Ford pumps have special nipples. Probably the same pump as the Nissan pump. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 Ford - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1111648&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=32 280Z - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1112295&jsn=267

Forgot to say the factory pump is only about 30 GPH. Many people get the Walbro high volume pump and experience noise because it pumps way more fuel than the engine needs or the lines can handle. The 240Z is known for having a small return line also which sometimes makes fuel pressure hard to regulate. Here's a calculator to get you close. That Motorcraft pump is used on their smaller 4.9 liter engine also. The Delphi and Bosch pumps are worth considering too. https://raceworks.com.au/calculators/fuel-pump-calculator/ http://www.kylesconverter.com/flow/liters-per-hour-to-gallons-(us-fluid)-per-hour https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,4.9l+300cid+l6,1121779,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=1074

I used the Airtex E8312 pump, and got about 40,000 miles out of it. It's quiet is you mount it correctly. If you want to spend a little more you can try a different brand. Ford used a high pressure external pump for their late 80's models. Looks like it comes with a mounting system that keeps things quiet. Check the mounting on the pump you have. You want the pump to be resting in a bed of rubber, no metal to metal contact with the body. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,5.0l+302cid+v8,1121780,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121780&pt=6256&jsn=986 https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=e8312&qid=1638982867&s=automotive&sr=1-4

The topic itself isn't really that bad. It's the use of the word "butthurt" that set things off. It's an offensive word. I'd avoid it in the future, along with similar words.

I wrote a whole long thing then realized that I don't know who you're talking about. Several of us went back through your posts, seen above, and can't find the complaints. Who are the "butthurt" people that you're talking about (of course realizing that "butthurt" is a term meant to insult people and cause a reaction)? Somebody here? Edit - nonproductive... But(t), best of all, if you just let this thread die and started posting things that people can add to, everybody (almost) would forget about this thread. p.s. many of my comments have attempts at humor included. Like bad jokes at a party.

Word.

Actually, it would be from neutral to reverse. Straight right, then down. To get past the lockout mechanism. Just saying...

I think that many people just get offended by the lack of effort some people put out to understand how things work before removing them. And the fact that in many cases the car will stink more and run worse afterward. For example, the BCDD's purpose is to let air in to the intake system so that the fuel from the injectors can properly burn. Without the BCDD the injectors still squirt some fuel even with the throttle blade shut that passes through and out the tail pipe, creating the "old car stink" that anybody who's been behind one hates. Removes the cats - mores stink. Remove the EGR - you're contributing to smog. Remove the AAR - you'll have to hold your foot on the throttle pedal or blip the engine until it's warm enough to keep running on its own. So the engineering types who work in fields that actually created these amazing technological conveniences can get a bit offended. To anyone who does plan to remove these things, just take a little time and try to understand what they do and why they are there, instead of posting about removing "emissions crap". It only takes a little bit of time and gives you the ammo to say that you've considered it and made your decision.

I don't see any posts about EGR on your car on this forum either. Maybe you're getting your forums mixed up? As far as the FSM goes, these early FSM's are like school textbooks. Much more educational than today's FSM's. I have to say it, even though it won't make you feel better - the title of the thread is mirronic. I just now made that word up, because "ironic" is used incorrectly so often. Anyway, don't get caught up in anybody's comments, if you think they're negative. There's plenty of positive here to destroy the negativity.

Based on what I saw I assumed it would be taken as a compliment. Oh well. The funny part is I'm not really interested in the Proto-Z or the 0-60 times, or the physics, or the math. I was just making an indirect comment about the hijacking. Thread-jacking is rude.

Do you have a link or a name? I'm sure Amazon probably has a list available but a starting point is always good.

This looks like math-nerd bench racing. No need to drive the cars, the numbers tell us what will happen.

Pressure should rise with RPM. You might rev the engine and see what the needle does. The oil pressure gauge and sensors are known for their inaccuracy on these cars.

Use the factory ignition wire. Black with white stripe.

Wikipedia? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Z-car

Probably the destroyed adapter plate bearing. I noticed that many of the shifters shown didn't have bushings which can also cause problems. Did you find any metal on the drain plug? That's a clue.

Analog would work too, really...

I never made it to Webelos. Got some Cub Scout stuff though. Tied some knots, climbed some trees...

It will remove the external regulator from the picture. You'll know immediately. Good luck.

Are you using somebody's kit? It's not a direct swap. You need other parts. Much simpler to just buy a reman caliper. https://zcardepot.com/products/front-big-brake-kit-toyota-caliper-240z-260z-280z

With the external regulator doesn't the backfeeding happen at the regulator? It's mechanical, I don't really know how the things works. But, the "break" should be there, in the regulator, either a diode or a relay of some kind. Maybe it's just a sign of a bad regulator. Might be worthwhile to examine the plug and wiring very carefully, and the bottom of the regulator. There is exposed circuitry underneath, if I recall right. Might just need a cleanin'.

What's the material for the spacer?

I think you meant backfeed. MSA has been backordered on the backfeed prevention conversion plugs. Might need to show him the diode fix.