Zed Head

Also helps explain why some of us get weird ads pertaining to nothing we've ever looked at. One of our fellow members has been looking at dirty ear wax products! Please stop! (Actually, the dirty ear wax ads have stopped. Thank you). "It starts showing ME different ads based on the people AROUND me."

I just came across this thing about tracking apps. Last year I went to a local store and was looking at crock pots. When I got home and got on the internet there were crock pot ads. Part of my brain, actually most of it, knew that my phone location must have shown that I was hanging out in that section of the store, and that information was then connected to my email account and when i was logged on the "internet" knew that this computer user had been in that store in that section. But another part of my brain said "nah, that's too crazy". This guy's Twitter story might help some of you realize that you're not paranoid. People really are watching you.

Does Nissan stamp numbers on their rods and caps? Or does it look like somebody has been in there before? The bearing wear seems odd, but I'm not an expert. Haven't seen many.

site, I think you got your heater hose memory backward. People get a hard time on the forums if they bypass the heater core, connecting the head outlet to the pump inlet. The best way is to block it completely, if you just need to get by until you can buy new hoses. If you use a bypass hose then hot coolant that has not gone through the radiator is passed right back in to the water pump. Lowers the effectiveness of the cooling system. dylancorrea those are the original hoses. They could split at any moment, spewing coolant everywhere and letting your engine overheat. Then you probably will need a new head gasket. It's pretty common for those old hoses to blow. 5/8" heater hose from any auto parts store will work.

I was joking about transmission fluid being good rust protection. My car had the same spray pattern. The rear seal of the transmission leaks a little and the propeller shaft sprays it around. It's just a sign that somebody has been driving it. The rear transmission seal is easy to replace. You can do it with the transmission in the car.

I listened to the video again and I'm going to change my thought to finding a loose part under the valve cover. A lash pad popped out or rocker arm came off or something. You can see the engine shaking like it's running on 5.

The last tags shown are 1998 California. But it looks like the current owner has been driving it. It has the typical transmission fluid pattern underneath. Leaky seal. Rust protection. Looks like a solid foundation for a nice 240Z. It's a crusty survivor.

The car looks like it's never had any restoration attempted. What you see is what you get. The "made for" tags are kind of odd. Maybe it was a gift to General Westerberg. And looks like somebody was trying out their new label maker.

Erie is one of those "Why do people live here" kind of places. Wonder why the guy wants to get rid of his new hobby. No members close to there, according to the map.

I'm no expert but the pictures look good. The seller should really have a driving/running video. Odd that there's no reserve now but there was before. These plastic things drilled or stuck on to the body are odd. Not sure what's going on there.

I thought of CO too but I used to live by Philly and Pittsburgh is quite a drive. Just post up the ad. Odds are that anybody here already owns one and is not going to scoop you. We can do pretty good forensics from the pictures.

This is absurd, of course, but it sounded like a dry knock not a wet knock. Check your damper/crank pulley. I saw the rust title and the number of pages and can't really remember all of the details of this car and engine. Might be worth writing up a new "state of the situation" post.

It depends on how you use it. If you use the GM transmission mount on the top you can leave the Nisan bottom mount out completely.

It's only the diff mount that changed. Nissan created new parts to move the diff back so that it was aligned with the wheel centers. A new mount, mustache bar and propeller shaft. You can tell if you have the early style by eyeballing the half-shafts. If they aren't at 90 degrees with the wheels they're the early style.

Somebody on CZCC posted about their using a solid mount not too long ago. It probably transmits diff howl to the cabin, especially if you also have polyurethane crossmember mounts. The race car guys have pictures of the bolt holes tearing out to to metal fatigue, but that's probably just a high-torque/abuse problem. MSA sells them also. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2296 The Technoversion mount is always worth considering. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

Take your multimeter and see if it's a ground wire (connected to the negative battery cable). Ground wires connect to E(earth). Earth = Ground.

https://tameson.com/about-us.html https://tameson.com/choosing-an-ac-or-dc-coil-for-a-solenoid-valve.html#:~:text=Solenoid working principles&text=Solenoids are electromechanical devices that,such as iron or steel. The polarity of the electrical contacts is not important with AC and DC solenoid valves. With AC solenoid valves, this might be obvious because the current switches polarity twice per period anyway. With DC solenoid valves the reasoning is that current passing through the coil creates an electromagnet which produces an attractive force on the armature. When current is applied through the coil, the armature will always be pulled towards the coil, regardless of the contact and current polarity.

Not really clear what you're saying here. No offense.

Spiders. Chipmunks. Mice. Carports are outside. Could even be throttle linkage. Make sure all the moving parts move like they should and that there's nothing blocking air flow. Check the inlet tube to the air filter too.

Another random thought. If the AFM is old the carbon trace could be bad. Maybe there's a certain point of the vane travel where the AFM sends bad data to the ECU. One of the AFM tests is to run it through its travel and watch resistance or voltage. Can't remember which. Found it. It's in the FSM but not the Guidebook. Page EF-51 in the 76 FSM. Edit - you can clean the trace with contact cleaner. Hose it down, move the vane. See what happens.

So, you have some inconsistencies, which are probably clues. I just reread your first post and see the vacuum reading. That's a good number. Your fuel pressure at idle should be down around 28 psi. I've had that on mine. Maybe you have a bad fuel pressure gauge. Not uncommon. Maybe you have bad FPR. If it's original the diaphragm can stiffen up. There's a big hose under the intake manifold that connects to the side of the block. That's the main PCV hose. They can fail. Can you describe the problem better. "It accelerates up to about 2500 rpm and then it falls flat on its face. " is not very much. Is it always right at 2500? Does it make any noises when it fails? Does it recover immediately at 2300 RPM? Stuff like that. The suggestion to watch the pressure gauge while driving is a good one. Might be something weird like losing pump power. Under acceleration fuel pressure should stay up around 36 psi.

It's kind of funny how automotive mixes up so many different types of measurement, but you can calculate the fuel pressure drop from the intake manifold vacuum, and vice versa. A good running engine will have about 16 inches of vacuum at idle. Convert that to pressure and it tells you how much drop the FPR should cause. About 7.8 psi. 36.3 - 7.8 = 28.5 psi. 14 inches gives 29.4 psi. 32 psi correlates to 8.8 inches of vacuum. Not very good. Could be valves, timing, vacuum leaks. Just more clues to work with. https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5306/~/engine-vacuum https://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm

I think that when he said 32 he meant with the engine running and intake vacuum applied to the FPR.

The best way to test the EFI system is with a meter at the ECU connector. What the computer sees is what matters. Your fuel pressure readings looked in the ballpark, but 32 at idle suggests low intake vacuum. The EGR system is often the culprit there.