Zed Head

The wiring diagram (and the construction of the ballast resistor itself) says that you should see voltage on all three terminals if any of them show voltage. Because they are all connected. If you remove the ballast resistor and flip it over, like you were going to do last night, you will find that the dead terminal is disconnected from the other two, either because the wire is broken or burnt, or because the screw came loose. There is a short path for starting (the middle terminal) and a long path for running (the end terminal).

It will allow more current, but your coil has slightly higher resistance than the stock one so it will even out. It should be fine for testing.

The 2nd post in the thread below has some good information. Take that measurement and see if you get close to 92 mm. Make sure the throwout sleeve is right for the pressure plate.

Was. But your distributor misalignment and spark plug wire mess wouldn't be related to a bad ballast resistor. You should make a list of each problem and how to fix it. You have several things that you need to do just get the engine started. There will be more problems to solve to get it running right. There's not going to be one thing that makes everything work right. And don't start any new threads.

Seems like many of us aren't reading other people's posts. Much repeating of advice, but, of course, the many threads on the same topic aren't helping at all. Shawninvancouver is definitely jumping around, but he has done a few things that have identified things that definitely need fixing.

How have you determined the cause of the damage?

Here is one. I would not do anything until you check the one that you have though. And before you do some other tests. If you find that your ignition module is bad you will probably replace it with a module that does not need a ballast resistor. It would be a waste of money. You could wire in a GM HEI module and just get rid of the ballast resistor entirely. https://zcarsource.com/ballast-resistor-260z-280z-74-5-76-used/

Electrical is difficult to learn but powerful once you get some basics down. A test light is a simple starting point. An inexpensive meter would be the next level.

You can test it by connecting the wire on the dead terminal to the middle terminal. This will run more current through the coil and ignition module (more heat) but should be okay for a test. I looked around the internet and did not find any three terminal units. The four terminal units could be used also, one of the terminals is just a junction for the negative terminal of the coil.

The ballast is still broken if all three terminals don't have power. The way it's wired won't affect what you showed with your test light.

I'm not sure if the wiring is correct but if you have power to any of those three terminals you should have power to all of them, because of the way the ballast is designed. The last terminal in your ballast is not connected to the others. Either the wire broke or the screw came loose. You want a three prong ballast just to match what you have. It might be three prongs to protect the ignition module. Looks like they are hard to find though. Take yours off and see what's broken. Might just be a loose screw.

With everything turned off, use a meter and test for a dead short from the fusible link terminal. You never described why or how the fusible link blew. Somehow you're on to hot wiring the solenoid.

C'mon it's still light out....

Better shot.

Disconnect the wires, remove the ballast resistor and turn it over. Looks like it might be damaged. The wire is probably broken.

Once this part is figured out it's on to carburetors! 😀

No, that is incorrect. You need a meter or a test light. It's an easy test.

Two rotations. Four cycles. It will either be right the first time the piston comes up or the second time.

If you get the valve cover off, and take all of the spark plugs out, you can put a wrench on the timing gear bolt to turn the engine over. Shine a bright light down the #1 plug hole and you'll see the top of the piston as it comes up. When you see it close to the top, look at the timing mark on the damper pulley and get it to zero. Look at the first two cam lobes at the front of the engine and make sure that they are pointed upward. That will be the compression stroke.

Fidanza has done a terrible job explaining what the green coating is and how it should be handled. They also refer to installation instructions on their web site but there are none to be found. They have videos on Facebook, but none on their Youtube channel. They're lucky that people like their product because their "media" presence is crap. They've created lots of confusion. This doesn't help you at all Wally. Make sure you get that throwout sleeve right though. Post the number of the kit you got, or a picture, and the parts that came with it. And the bearing/sleeve is just clipped on to the clutch fork, and the fork is clipped on to the pivot ball. They both just pull off by hand. Pull them out of your transmission and take a close look. they should be cleaned up anyway. https://www.facebook.com/FidanzaPerformance/videos/1583594301777341/ https://www.fidanza.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61251-is-my-clutch-seized-to-flywheel/

The "bearing" is actually the sleeve and a bearing. Two pieces. If you didn't get a tall pressure plate in your kit then the sleeve will not work right. You'll have to remove the transmission to fix it. The bearing is pressed in to the sleeve. If the bearing is worn or dry you will regret not replacing it.

One rotation puts the engine on the opposite cycle or stroke. It's a four cycle engine. Compression (up), combustion (down), exhaust (up), intake (down). There are two cycles per revolution. The reason the small side needs to point a certain way is so that you can get the rotor in the distributor to point at the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke so that the spark will light the fire. If it's pointed the other way the spark happens during the exhaust stroke, where nothing will happen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine

One side is smaller. That's why the distributor shaft can only install one way.

Borrowed this from ZCarDepot. Remans are sold without the bottom plate.