Zed Head

That's not how a person tests for spark. The fact that you saw a small spark when you turned the key off suggests that the coil and wiring are correct. It looks like you don't have a meter or a test light and are just poking around, taking things apart and putting them back together. Sometimes that works but not often. Go back through the suggestions and write down what you did for each one. Where is the rotor under the distributor cap? Without that you'll never get a spark out to the plugs. Show that the plug wires are in the correct positions. Show that the rotor is pointing to #1 when the damper pulley mark is at zero. At this point it's not even clear that you have ever had a rotor in the distributor. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,260z,2.6l+l6,1209181,ignition,distributor+rotor,7136

There is no easy way to test the ignition module. SteveJ's diagram can be used to install a $25 GM HEI module. That's about as cheap and easy as you'll get. One of your main problems in your posts though is that you describe one issue then don't follow-up to show that you corrected it, then you come back with a completely separate problem. You started with plug wires that are obviously wrong by your picture. Then you started looking at your ignition module, Then you said that you had power to the ballast resistor but no power out of it. Maybe you meant no spark when you said no power. There are many small things that you can do to confirm that other parts are correct. Measure resistance through the distributor pickup coil. Confirm voltage at the coil itself with the key on. Measure resistance through the coil. You can even create a spark by disconnecting and connecting the positive wire to the coil with the key on to confirm that the coil itself will produce a spark and is wired correctly. You can take your meter and confirm that the ignition module is getting power. Confirm that it is properly grounded. Confirm that it is connected to the pickup coils in the distributor, There's a bunch that you can do and should do if you want to save money and have the best chance of getting it to work. Plug n Play is only really possible for things that are already working properly.

That sounds like a ballast resistor issue. Power passes through the ballast resistor to the coil. Measure resistance from the point that the W/B (white with black stripe) wire connects to the other two terminals. When the key is on (IG) the longer path is used, during Start the shorter path is used. But both paths should pass current. The ballast resistors do fail.

If he wires it in the engine bay then he can just use the red and green directly to the W and G pins, B from the coil's + terminal, and C to the coil's negative terminal. Then unplug the module in the cabin. That's the quick and easy test method if a person is not sure the module is bad. If it works, then it can be moved to the cabin. Or not. That's a nice diagram for in-cabin mounting. You could make a pdf and ask Mike to put it in the Downloads area for 260Z applications. @Mike P.s. are the diodes necessary or is that your engineer side saying that they couldn't hurt? Just curious. What happens if they're not used?

That is the pulley on the crankshaft. The lowest pulley on the front of the engine. There is a small notch in the edge of it. That needs to be close to zero. Rotate the engine to get it there. You can rotate the engine by putting the transmission in high gear and moving the car. The other part is the timing tab. The metal tab with the numbers on it could be on either the passenger side of the engine or the driver's side. It's hard to see, dark down there, and there's usually stuff in the way and the parts are covered in grease. Shine a bright light down there and see what you can find.

You have confirmed spark and ignition timing with the starting fluid. Now you need to find out why the injectors aren't opening. Could be the power supply, could be the signal from the coil negative terminal, could be the ECU. Get a meter and start probing.

The relay is actually two relays in one box - the EFI relay and the fuel pump relay. Nissan split them apart in 1978.

The rotor goes here. It presses on by hand.

This is a rotor.

Where the rotor points is #1.

Yours looks in pretty bad shape. But even the eBay one is old and could fail at any moment. Probably easier to wire in a GM HEI module. The eBay module might be from a 75 280Z. Looks like it would work though if the wires are the same. Here's a couple of links about the GM HEI module. No offense, but, considering your problems with plug wires I'm not sure you'll get the wiring correct. Be careful. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/

Leave the wires on the spark plugs. Disconnect all of the wires from the distributor cap. Reconnect the wires to the cap as shown in w3wilkes post #2. Put the rotor back on and make sure it points to #1 when the ignition timing mark is between zero and 10 degrees.

Sounds like your ignition timing is off. Turn the distributor body. That will change the trigger point and get the rotor pointed closer to #1.

Turn over and crank mean the same thing. You probably mean "fire" or start, not turn over. Crank/turn over > fire/start > run. How long does it sputter? A split second? What happens if you squirt a bunch of fluid in? What is the actual fuel pressure number?

Still can't tell if the rotor electrode is pointing at the terminal your finger is on. It might also be that you need to turn the distributor. Get the cap in your hands and see if you think that the spark will jump to the #1 terminal when the timing mark is at 10 degrees. Or have a friend turn the distributor back and forth slowly while you crank the engine.

(Edited to avoid exploding heads...) But, using the normal procedure is best, because then everyone else will understand it. w3wilkes post is the one you want, but you need to set your timing mark at zero on the damper pulley and confirm that you're on the compression stroke, then make sure that the rotor under the cap is pointing at the #1 terminal. Making sure the rotor is pointed at #1 is very important. It tells you if the oil pump shaft and distributor is installed correctly, like Mike described.

Show the distributor cap with #1 plug terminal identified, and confirm that the firing order is correct.

You need to show the wires to the distributor to know if the firing order you used is wrong or not.

About 5:30.

Looks like I'm about to get some makeup meme...

Couldn't really tell from that diagram which is positive and which is negative. Why would negative or positive matter if it's just sensing power? (Edit - actually I don't really understand how that device works. Maybe it's "sensing" sparks? Current flow? Whatever it is, the positive side might work the same. @SteveJ @Captain Obvious ) If you have another load on the negative terminal of the coil that could screw up your tach signal. I'd disconnect that before you get too far along and see if it starts working. I don't know if the condenser will help you with that scheme. If it fixes the tach problem try using the positive side of the coil for the power signal. Edit - actually don't try this. It might be a direct short, depending on how the device works.

Is it an inertia switch? It looks like it supplies power to the coil also. Have you disconnected/unplugged the factory ignition module? While you're down there you can also test continuity back to the coil negative. It's a branched circuit, one to the ignition module, one to the tachometer, one to the ECU. The condenser/capacitor on the blue wire is easy to setup. That's what worked on mine, with a GM HEI module. Any condenser from an alternator will work. The wire to the capacitor goes the coil negative, the capacitor can be mounted on the ground point on the manifold, nearby. It's a cheap quick test if you have one laying around. Won't hurt anything.

By "tach sense" wire you mean the blue wire that heads back past the ignition module, right? What is this "fuel safety relay", and how is it connected/wired? That would be new to the system. The tachometer seems sensitive to the signal on that wire. You could disconnect it for a test and see what happens.