Zed Head

Good point. It would just be a quick blast though, right, then it would fall off? That's the whole thing with current control. I wired my HEI module up in the engine bay and used appropriate wires. Something to consider for people retrofitting a module in the old ignition module cases, as EuroDat's instructions show. That's a long run for small wires. Not picking on the XR3000 but I think that it is basically a small module in a big box. I'll bet if you took it apart there would be just a small circuit board inside. The other possible failure point would be the trigger mechanism, which is the other sophisticated piece of technology.

He's back. They call him BoJo.

Plus more variants. The odds of a vaccine-proof variant increase as more people get the virus. There has already been a UK variant. And people from the UK are known travelers. It's what they do, they travel around the world, regularly. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/science/science-briefs/scientific-brief-emerging-variants.html?CDC_AA_refVal=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cdc.gov%2Fcoronavirus%2F2019-ncov%2Fmore%2Fscience-and-research%2Fscientific-brief-emerging-variants.html And it looks like there's a new one - https://www.sciencefocus.com/news/lambda-variant/

I view it more as long-COVID versus cases. Creating a huge number of debilitated people. That are more easily ignored of course, because they don't have any energy. In a broader view, the question is one of a healthy society versus a sick one. Some people think that more sick people means more for them. Others realize that more healthy people means more for everybody. That's kind of life in America in a nutshell, I think.

Here's the day before, with more on the UK experiment.

MSA suggests a 0.4 ohm coil. Not sure if it's a good idea or not but it's what they do. The GM HEI module, which probably has the same general current control technology, uses a 0.6 ohm coil. Just filling out the story. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4006 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-730-0060

I didn't even know there was an official category at the car shows. I just use the word for any car that looks like it hasn't been modified, crashed, or rusted to bits.

This guy from England gives a pretty good overview of things globally. It's crazy here, and crazy there. And bad in the rest of the world. The U.K. is planning what is basically the old "herd Immunity" experiment. They're going to sacrifice thousands of citizens, apparently because they just can't wait. They have all of the science and predictions that show how bad it's going to be and yet they're just going to go for it. Things are crazy here but I can't imagine being in the middle of that. Look at the prediction plot. He talks about it at 6:30. Sorry AK260, no offense intended.

Survivor 260Z sold today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-42/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-07-06

Check out the old computer punch card though. Japanese. Some good provenance. Just need a machine to read the card.

Too funny. I posted my post and thought "wait a minute. That has harmony01 all over it". Sure enough... It won't sell. It will end as "reserve not met". Edit - actually, nobody will offer that $74,500 price, it's not an auction. +74,000? It must be the trailer hitch. Or the velour. I've never seen "GARAGE" on the ignition switch. Japanese thing? Always learning something.

Wow, I haven't seen anyone try to fix an E12-80 module before. Interesting how crusty the insides look. You can replace that module with a GM HEI module. The green and red wires are the trigger wires, connected to the G and W terminals on the HEI. The 123 is a nice distributor though, except for those cap problems, I think. Here are some instructions someone put together in the past. There are other ways but this is an example. You just need the green and red wires, you could run extensions. https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/gm-hei-module-install-r69/

This sounds more like an ignition module problem. For future reference. If you put a meter in your car you can check the coil primary circuit if it happens again. Good luck.

If he has current-limiting seems like he'd get best performance from a lower resistance coil. Even their instructions would leave him with a 0.84 to 1.2 ohm coil if he was retrofitting a stock 1978 280Z. Just saying. Instructions are vague, they just say "remove ballast resistor". No coil specs given.

Can't even find PS30 on the internet, only the PS20. Here's the Crane instructions (covers both 700 and 3000). The XR3000 is current-limiting. https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700 instructions.pdf

Another not quite on topic video. Boat music. Came across this guy's channel and it's strangely soothing. Florida really is it own little world.

It did well. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-43/

They do seem popular. This one sold for old fast modem speed. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-43/

In theory, principle of operation, when the engine is running the valve is never fully closed, so cracking pressure is never needed. The bowl supply is always being depleted and the valve never fully closes. OR, if you consider the transparent carb video demonstration, cracking pressure is needed between each intake cycle if the needle closes fully, depending on how fast the bowl refills, which would depend on pressure/flow rate of the fuel supply. With more cylinders per carb, the needle has less time to seat fully, and things move toward constant flow through a partially open needle valve. Always open, never fully closed. And, stiction would really only be a factor at the pivot point for the floats. The needle and seat are a conical shaped neelde, and the metal edge of a the orifice. Not really a lot of stiction there. The deeper you get in to carb operation the more you understand why they they rarely work well consistently. There are always days where "something's off" and you get in to tweaking and tuning.

Darn it, Google must have showed me this video because YZFMax posted it in a different thread. It should be here anyway. Double odds of seeing it. Look at the float bowl action.

An air pressure regulator has a similar function. But there's a vent, which an FPR doesn't have. https://www.instrumentationtoolbox.com/2017/03/how-air-pressure-regulator-works.html

I don't have a good grasp on how a deadhead FPR works. Holley says it works by an adjustable restriction. Seems like the pressure would then vary with fuel pump volume, and fuel pump volume would vary with voltage, and voltage typically varies with RPM on a Z car. Doesn't seem like the deadhead system would be very consistent. I think it also puts more load on the pump, since the pump is pushing against a blockage that doesn't flow very much. https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_choose_a_regulator_for_carbureted_vehicles/ Essentially, the deadhead style regulator uses a restriction in order to lower the fuel pressure by simply decreasing the fuel flow. This is accomplished with the use of a diaphragm and seat that restricts the fuel flow and uses a spring to provide pressure adjustability.