Terrapin Z

I picked up one for the MO/YR of my car 6 70 The other set was for obvious reasons. 😀

Those fuses do look odd and tall. Pull a fuse or two out of your daily driver and compare the two. Most newer cars have those types of fuses. Although they have even smaller ones now as well. If all that fails you could bend the upright support on that bracket to get the fuse box to "lay down" a little more. I have some access lids it you haven't found a replacement for the broken one yet.

Looks like another Z fever issue. 😆 Someone recently posted a full interior in white on FB. Post are really hard to find again if you don't reply / follow. Nice find and purchase!!

Thanks for the mention @Zed Head I do have a couple of those but I think they have some small cracks, nothing like that though. Being it is a big box, you are shipping it dimensional weight anyhow. Attaching it to a piece of wood does not raise the shipping cost at all. That is the 2020 hind site factor. Anything shipped theses days usually comes with some basic insurance, $50 for USPS, and $100 with UPS etc., so the shipper should be able to start a claim and get some sort of refund for the damage. Also if paid for it with PayPal Goods and Services that has some insurance coverage as well. Most sellers will honor some deal for the damage. If you are just going to repair I think the method above would work, Glass in some thin wood strips on the back side, and the SEM spray and texture would cover up the crack seam. Always a bummer to get something damaged in shipping or worse yet have it lost in the mail. Good luck and happy holidays.

PM sent

I have picked up two parts cars that looked better than this, one was free the other was $300.00 If I had known I could sell them for $5K each I would have kept them instead of parting them out as I did.

Beverly Hills Auto is at it again with this beauty. Only $5950.00 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Datsun-240Z/224281422502?hash=item343836eaa6:g:B3EAAOSw-ftf2lr9 That will buff out right?

The tracks shown in your picture just get grease.

Those turned out great. Even with the extra cost for the powder coat, it looks well worth it. Good luck on the sale of the other two.

I'm not sure what the intent was either, for a copyright. I did not try and look it up. If you do ask please share the reply. Zhome's list is on the internet open to public view, and it has names on there too. Phillip put that text in there for some reason, perhaps just to protect his intellectual property. The way it is put together? The actual copyright text would say, but I don't want to spend the time to find it.

I had first added this PDF to my post ^ but then read through Phillips site and found this, so I edited it out of my posy as I did not ask for permission to use it. Not policing here, you can make whatever post you want. Perhaps you did ask, perhaps he does not mind.

Thanks @Patcon I forgot about the retaining ring, it is not shown in the diagram. Looks like you were successful in removing the pushrod. I had a hard time getting the disc out of my booster with it off the car. I wish you luck.

I must have missed this thread. My 1981 CB900F

You can just pull that straight out. There is a metal ring with a rubber seal on it that will be loose out of the hole (#1 in the side view pic). The reaction disc (#18) is on the back disc of that rod (#2) Just judging by the amount of adjustment thread is showing I'd venture to guess the disc has fallen off. I had to remove the whole booster and shake it around until I could fish out the rubber disc. I do not think you can open the booster while it is still in the car. Gives you the chance to repaint it too. Even when adjusting the rod they mention the disc dropping out. I glued mine back on to avoid it falling off again while reassembling. I assume you have a FSM?

Ha Ha, I just put this room together, not a problem if you have the space for it. All a worthy cause. I could collect Magic the Gathering cards.....Not 💤

From my collection, pics of 73 240's 6 digit vin plates, and a 75-76 280 which is embossed not engraved. It looks like a 280 washer bottle too. There is no mount surface for the ID plate. Odd 138310 is a re vin'ed 70 as a 73 rivets show the re tag

"Google" 240Z vin tags and it looks like the rivets are smaller and there is space between the rivet and the numbers. Examples below. The door jam looks more correct but again just need the right size rivets.

I use it to keep up with my Z club and other local events. That's the only place they post nowadays. I was also trying to buy /sell some parts. You sure have to wade though some deep Zuckindung on there everyday. You think the ads on here are bad.....non stop. 95% of posts are either bashing someone or making fun of them. Sad really.

I wonder if they would show you a picture of the VIN on the firewall. Not the dash, door, or fender well, those can all be changed easily. The firewall would have to be welded in.

I wondered about the cars I find in Junkyards, I always try and save the vin tags but I never have seen any JY cars listed as unknown owners on the registries. I looked over Phil's just a little and only saw owners stating their car was totaled and sold at auction etc. but not cars found in a JY where you don't know the owner or history. I would think this info would benefit the registries with data of known scrapped cars. I expect these two would cross data to fill in gaps one either ones pages.

It is a pain after you have assembled everything. You have to pull the M/C back off the booster and extract that rod. The pad sits on that flat metal part inside the booster. The rubber coated disc behind that metal head in the pic is the seal for the M/C opening and just slides out. No way of knowing until you pull it out and confirm the rubber pad is mounted on the metal head. Even if you did not pull the rod out of the booster, that pad can just fall off once the pressure is off of it. (pretty sure that's what happened on my car. I was just changing the M/C) That's why I JB weld'ed it on to the metal. Rule everything else out that is suggested here, but it just might be the issue.

Just ruling out some known issues. Another thing that often happens with the brake system. (it happened to me) is the reaction disc in the booster falls off the push rod for the M/C. It is a small rubber pad. Without it the brakes can act really erratic. it is the dropped down rubber piece in this picture. If it is not in place it is likely inside the booster shell. After fishing mine out, I glued it on to the metal pad.

Phil has three 2 digit cars listed. 00023, 00037, 00057

One thing that happens is the front calipers can get installed on the opposite side of the car from where they came from. You can double check this by looking at the bleeder, It needs to be at the top of the caliper. When the calipers are on the opposite sides the bleeder ends up on the bottom making a proper bleed impossible. Makes for a sold pedal with the air still in there.

It's a FaceBook registry. There is a 260Z and a 280Z one as well. After you join their group (free) they supply you this certificate, and offer to sell a sticker for your car. ($4) You can buy a deluxe certificate with a hi res pic of your car for $20 Carl's list is a lot bigger and more accurate I'm sure. Carl is in the Group. Phillip Ray is the FB group originator. (admin)