Terrapin Z

There are 8 point sockets too. with the right size it should grip quite well. https://www.grainger.com/product/1AX12?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI55P0wur36QIVSh6tBh25RwitEAQYASABEgJguPD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI55P0wur36QIVSh6tBh25RwitEAQYASABEgJguPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915865!!!g!439063557338!

It is an early 260 but it sorta looks like these superseded up to the later 280 at least in CPM mine is a 01/74 I can take measurements for you if you like. I'll send some pic's through the PM too.

@gotham22 I believe the "wrecking yard" in the other post would be https://www.zspecialties.com in Snohomish, WA. His name is Oliver. His website has been under construction for years, but you can call him. While I am not a "wrecking yard" I too am in WA state, and I have some parts cars and could offer something to you. The two I have both have some surface rust (nothing like your examples) and are off earlier cars. One is an early 74 260 the other a 73 240. I am not sure if there were differences in these from the 78 you have.

Nissan's making a 40OZ??? I'll try it!!

Thanks for the heads up @Zed Head. I really only care for the transmissions from the ZX. Not much else. Probably would be a good deal for this one.

The "P" in BP5ES or BP6ES is an indication of a projected tip. our cars need that to get the spark in the correct location. A B5ES would be shorter overall. The R mentioned above is a resistor. (BPR5ES) Heat range (the number 5 or 6) is the size of the porcelain as opposed to the electrode. Has nothing to do with the overall length of the plug. https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/

I looked for the black / red black wire combo, and did not find it in my 6/70. Usually the flat spade type wire by the passenger kick panel is for the door switch for the dome light. It comes out from the hinge bolt cavity. Just a possibility....

Ah, makes sense now. Is that a hose clamp exhaust hanger on there? All sorts of cool stuff.

I don't see holes for sway bar end links on the red car, as they are on the white. As for the half shafts, it would effect unsprung weight, but not too much. No E brake cable on red either, or have you taken that off already?

Maybe something in the universal sizes are close? There must be some other car that has a similar size bushing. https://www.suspension.com/universal-bushings.asp Some rubber style too : https://www.rpmrubberparts.com/stock-parts/category/vibration-control-products/bushings/center-bonded-bushings

When I first got my car I worked at a small chain parts store. I asked for TRE's and ball joints, wheel seals and bearings. They pulled together 5 different brands of mismatch. I said NO, all the same Moog and Timken. "we'll have to order them" Fine I says. Took one extra day. I did the same thing with the U Joints for drive line and half shafts, bought local. Certain things you have to go through the Z stores and I am glad they are there for specialty items. But also check with Nissan if you have the part numbers. They still offer a lot of parts I would not have expected. I just ordered all the hatch latches and dovetails and guide bumpers, door sash seals front and rear all Nissan, some special bolts too. Oh and free shipping too (at least during Covid within 100 miles) Normally I just have them ship to store and go pick them up. (also free) https://www.carpartsmanual.com/ Feel free to inquire about your car if you have questions. Someone here can usually always help out.

Nissan has been elusive as to the true locations for relays and the like. These post indicate it is on the Passenger side although the pic shows it on the Drivers side. The parts book did not indicate what years had which one. and they kind of look the same. One post below says the relay is for the blower motor and the hatch glass in one. Heres some old thread about # 35. Type the numbers into google images and you will see what they both look like.

Personally I would keep them the same. Moog. I ordered mine from https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/moog-replacement-tie-rod-ends/make/nissan/model/240z/part-type/tie-rod-ends?fr=part-type You get both Moog and less expensive. You don't always have to buy from the Z parts Stores ?. IMO. IIRC the two right side issue is when you replace the inners ball joints.

I guess we will need more information from the OP. I always considered your switch as Series 1, and this one a series 2. I read the post as him having a series 1 wire harness and this Series 2 switch. (and a series 2 fuse box, short wire tails, different routings too) But hey I could be wrong as well. Both wire diagram show the circuit goes through a relay. Defrosters should pulse on and off lest they burn up the wire filaments.

My parts book lists two relays for the hatch glass. Zed Heads diagram only shows one marked as Acc Relay. Another diagram shows both. If you are mixing years it may cause problems. IMO. Washer pumps often fail. Being a rest mod there are other aftermarket pumps that will work just don't look or fit exactly "stock"

While my locks were out I noticed the key code was stamped in the side of the lock (a security issue in the 70's?). You could check and see if yours are all the same. It is possible the hatch was swapped out at some point with the lock going with it.

All the same part number 240Z ~ 280ZX 11710-E3000

There are blocks with E30, E31, P30, N42, F54 casting numbers There are heads with E30, E31, E88 (early and Late) N42, N47, P90, P90A. I think the N47 was on a Maxima ICBW Some of those matched head to block but those are just casting numbers. The serial number under the back cylinder matches the inner fender well plate for the 240, 260. For the 280 Nissan dropped the engine number on the plate but it is still on the block. As far as I know there were no matching transmission numbers. There are certain ones that were in a date range of cars. The A and the B style (two different ones), and a C in the turbo. I hope that helps some, I am no numbers expert so others may chime in with more data.

From Hybrids: At least he introduced himself there. Hello Z enthusiasts, My name is Brian Joseph, owner of BHJ Automotive, many of you may not of heard of us but some of you have. We specialize in custom Asian auto parts starting with the Datsun Z. Currently we are the primary seller of Retro-Spec products, we can guarantee all Retro-Spec products with a 4-6 week lead time, and we also hold some of their products in stock having a 2-3 day lead time before shipment. We sell other brands as well and are looking to design and manufacturer our own parts for all Z generations. If you are interested in our brand or have any questions feel free to visit our site www.bhjautomotive.com or contact us at sales@bhjautomotive.com, thank you for taking a look at our thread, we hope to hear from you all soon!

@SteveE I have a bag full of those rollers. PM your address and I'll send you one for shipping $ (I dismantled some old rusty regulators and saved the pins and rollers.) I found some thick nylon washers at Ace hardware and backed them up with a 15mm circlip, fits nice and snug. I just put my regulators back in, so hard to get a pic now.

I have a bunch of them, If you still are looking.

Well asking price, and sold price are two different things. Although I have seen a set of cables go for around $1500. His "sold" list is fairly inline with other sellers. There are a number of "best offer accepted" They did list the NOS heater panel finisher for a very specific buyer "Tnsnap" who then BIN @ $800. https://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors/6000/m.html?item=293531353110&_ssn=auctionworks1&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2046732.m1684

Same people that listed it before. They have sold some things and some are still overpriced. This is the latest list. https://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors/6000/m.html?item=293531353110&hash=item4457d50016%3Ag%3AKGIAAOSwUi5eg6Ux&_ssn=auctionworks1 $10 for some mystery wires. lol

It is 14mm from the top of the float sync aluminum base up the clear tube. Like shown in both pic's ^^

I have a set and really like how simple they are to use. Plus you can run the engine with them on the carbs and see how the float level reacts to RPM. I use a 14mm (9/16) bolt to measure the level, gives me a nice little handle.