Terrapin Z

As Zed said ^ They are behind the plastic panel in the rear, and the one on the right rear, where the vent tank sits. If you are not using the tank I would look for some rubber caps to seal them off.

Thanks for the functional pic's @CanTechZ I agree completely the intention was to exhaust the cabin pressure / flow. I was only stating there was no direct path between the two points. To @Zed Head's point making some seals is the only option going forward.

The way I understand these to work is rather funky for such a well designed car. The large panel vents into the car from the chamber in the hatch just openly. The smaller slit in the two vent pieces are also open to that chamber. crafting the vent to the outside of the car through the chrome vents on the large slit. The tubes are just for draining water out. Which drains right onto the hatch sill, promoting rust. There was no direct connection from the big panel to the smaller pair of vents. These also let in a lot of fumes that billow around the back of the car. At least that is what I determined from refreshing my S1 hatch vents. No wonder they went to the B pillar vents.

I have a 73 which has the "B" transmission, that I am cutting up. I am pretty sure the mounts are the same, but not 100%. They look very similar. I can't think of a reason they would alter them over the years. If you think these might work let me know and we can work something out. I can take more pic's and measurements if needed.

Also of note in the drawings is the location of the stopper screw. Early has it on the side #19 Late has it on the bottom #17 I concur that it is an early M/C GLWS

I have one as well, @z3beemer, just as a back up to 240Z415.

Those air horns though.......🤣 😂

Most bike shops I worked at sold a product call Kreem. A white three part coating. even back in the late 70's and 80's https://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html

Only $110.000... I like the edit screen on the pictures, classy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Datsun-Z-Series-/324935428381?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Not racing but pacing......

Mart, the thing about FB is most people don't know that to put some car make and models in the ad, you have to scroll all the way to the bottom and select "other' it will then let you type in what you really have. Most just pick from the list and try to get close. 240SX comes up a lot for the Z's.

I took a look at my parts dash and when I pulled the reset knob off there was no clip on the outside of the dash. The inner clip was there and keeps the cable at the correct length though the dash. The manual does not show one either. The knob does fit tightly and may be the only thing that holds the reset cable end to the dash. Something to try before going through a lot of effort.

When I did my set of Toyota calipers I seem to remember having to notch the backing plate about a 1/4 inch.

I have always found the 10mm snap off just fine with a standard socket, no impact gun needed. 😅 How about that double deep though???? 😎

The quintessential set......

A 72 in Tacoma "Does not run" $1000.00 🙄

A lot of early cars are popping up for sale recently. $17,000 and has an L26, OP says he got it that way.

Hazard is out of a 73, 1 year only, could mean the dash was replaced at some point. I missed that in my picture scans. I think the speedo starts at 20 MPH so the gauges should be correct. Later 0 start gauges have 80 at the top where early 20 speedos have 90 at the top. Maybe just the switch was changed but it had a different plug on the back. The hood has the corners, I did see that, could mean the car was wrecked once in its life and had some body parts replaced.

I expect it will go for more, hard to say how much more but there are always last minute bids. snipers if you will. It does look like a lot of the correct early parts are there. I think it was a 4 speed as the pedals and shifter are there. I don't see anything "automatic" about it. It seems to me the seller really does not know these cars well, as he was asked about the engine number and provided a picture of the casing number. I personally would have a hard time buying a car online without being able to look it over in person. It certainly happens all the time and some are pleased and some are not. Always a bit of a gamble. However it does look like a decent car, although it still needs a lot of work. 82000 miles? look at the brake pedal rubber. 182,000 maybe. That would also explain the engine color = rebuild. Don't worry about me I am not bidding on it. 😀

That's old school, they are Meth Heads now.

And the reserve is still not met.

Deal, I will PM details. Thanks

The green one looks broken where it went on the coil. the little brass ring. I'd still be interested in the rest of the bits, Jim.

I picked up this flood car a while back. It was originally covered in blackberries. This is after the seller had found it and cut the vines back. He had bought the property at a lien auction and found this there. A 73 that had an F54 280 block, N42 head, and early 4 screw carbs. wide wheels and a number of other savable parts. The price was much better back then = free!! No title as you might expect from this situation.

Mine still has the points, it is a CDI ignition that boost the spark at the coil. The coil connections are the rare part to find, sad to hear to chopped them up. I would have bought them as spares. The are fragile. Here is the ad for it from an old catalog out of Portland OR.