Terrapin Z

That number comes up discontinued here in the states.

If the car has been worked on in its life, those lift tabs are often missing, Easy enough to make something similar. The rear one was on the last exhaust stud IIRC. I have even pulled a motor and trans out lifting from the engine mounts with a tractor. (parts car)

I too scrapped out a few cars that I regret not saving. The rear view mirror is 20/20 as they say. Now I keep everything I can. I saved this off a 70 shell I picked up a while ago, as it was in too good of shape to scrap. I cut the firewall below the spot weld line. Most of the A pillars are there too. The bottom was toast. Getting it to FL might be a challenge, but if you were interested........

Agreed, you would not want to cut up a NOS part for just a small section of it. I couldn't see the whole part in you pic. I just thought I would throw it out there. I have a 260Z I am parting as well I PM'ed you some pics of that.

I think it is for the 260-280, so some slight differences from the 240.

Sounds like the best plan for now, Soak it!! hope it frees up for you.

Question sent.

Here is an older thread.

My 70 and 73 both had the double gland style. My 76 280Z has the same style as your pic.

I think the one in your first pic is for a 280Z At least that is what I found online with a quick search. Here are some pic's of the internals for the 240Z valve I found as well.

That is the one the original poster of this thread asked for it is a single year model. that mounts like the early one but has the side bushings as well. Looks like you are actually after the one in post 15, the earlier one. correct? I didn't look at the quoted picture and it does not show up until I click the "expand" link on it. Thanks for clarifying.

There is one on eBay but is looks like it was pretty rusted then repainted. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203533285676?hash=item2f6387792c%3Ag%3ABb4AAOSw9M9g-fp0&LH_ItemCondition=4

I have some used 240 tanks if you want to go that route. Brazing or JB are also good options.

Here is some info on those pieces for you.

The brass "T" thing is essentially a lock nut. Break it loose and the plastic head then unscrews. unscrew the lock nut piece as well, install the boot and reassemble. Clean up as desired.

That kind of looks shorter than normal. Someone might have cut it shorter or made a replacement from some tubing. The later years 260-280's had a tube without the extra barb on them. maybe it was swapped out at some time.

Still shows available on the Canadian Nissan site. I also agree 260Z and yes I see the superseded numbers N3501 and N3601

Yes that looks right. The metal tube that came from the block have had a small tube coming out. like this pic and I think it went to the one of the barbs on the fender piece.. There is a one way valve in there so the fumes go the correct way. (If you trust the internet pic it goes on the top) I am sure there is a diagram on the forum some where. Seeing you don't have the barb on the crank case exit tube, and the part is for emissions you might just bypass it's intended function and make it look hooked up. 😀

The hose in pic 1 looks to be the vacuum advance for the dizzy. In pic 2 The three hose part is a valve for the fuel tank emissions. the hard line hooks to the rear pointed barb. One of the others went to a nipple on the block vent you have the blue hose on. The other barb vented to atmosphere. There are a number of threads on that part too. The blue caps on the carbs (red circle) a vents that used to go into the air box. Seeing you don't have that shown they would also vent to atmosphere. I hope that helps.

The tabs do look as if they were welded back on, perhaps upside-down. There should only be the two spot welds, and not the three glob welds on the edges.

Your mount tabs are bent straight out. They need to be at a 90 degree to line up with the hole in the grill. Should be easy enough, but the paint might chip. Here are some pic's from an older post (not mine)

I might have a donor set, still need to pull the fenders to check condition. Or did you get the ones from APS already?

Those hoses actually are mounted inside the cabin under the corners of the dash. The is a screw clamp on the cowl part not shown in this pic. You can pull them off to make sure they are clear. They exit under the fender side like jfa's pic above.

PM Sent

Confirm the reaction disc is in its proper place.