LeonV

Absolutely not. The seats need pass-throughs that capture the sub and shoulder belts. Otherwise, your harness will not function as intended and you're going to have a bad time. I'm assuming (hoping) this is a race car that doesn't see the street. A roll cage and race harnesses are not fun nor safe on the street (unless you're wearing a helmet and HANS device at all times).

The compression rod controls longitudinal toe compliance. Are you sure the nuts on the body-side compression rod attachment are torqued?

What's the state of your compression rod bushings and all associated fasteners (at body and control arm)?

Looking good! What do you think of the BFG SC2 so far?

Hi Nick, I usually measure from the rocker or pinch seam to make sure there's some rake in the body for aero purposes. These are measured before, during, and after the corner balance on a leveled-out 4-post alignment rack. Make sure the car is level when doing the corner balancing and the wheels are allowed to settle after lowering from the jacks or else you'll be chasing a moving target.

Nothing weird going on here. You have adjustable spring perches so you just need to corner balance the car, preferably laden to race spec. Looks like it has a 49% front and 51% left distribution as it sits so you should be able to get within 18kg at 50.0% corner balance. Either raise the RF and LR, lower the LF and RR, or a combination of both. Note: you can't adjust Left % or Front % when corner balancing, that's based on the CG of the car, but you can change the diagonals. The diagonals in your measurements are off by 5% which tips off that a corner balance will take care of most of your worries.

Did you check your actual timing after you installed the 123? First thing I did after install was make a "setup map" with timing at 10° everywhere and put a timing gun on the pulley. Timing was substantially off so I clocked the distributor until the gun showed 10°. I can post my timing curve when I'm on my tuning computer.

The P90 should already have the hole for a mechanical pump, it's covered by a bolt-in blanking plate. Now is a good time to install a 10lb flywheel, you won't regret it. ?

No Calagarians that I know are heading down my way any time soon so let me know if you're ever in the SF area! No worries if someone else buys it, I'm just being opportunistic. ?

Ah, bummer. Let me know next time you're in the area, always good to meet like-minded people. I'll let you know if I can arrange pickup!

Jim, I'd love to take that off your hands but shipping would be a killer. Although, I do know some people that go between Calgary and SF once in a while...

Nice find! I have the same one although it has some battle scars. Not a lot of them around, especially NOS!

You are correct, thanks for catching that. Everything else I said stands. ?

Did it ever run with the 280Z tach installed? How did you wire it in? The coil + BW wire runs through the tachometer and if you didn't bridge that when installing the 280Z tach, you will not have power to the coil.

PSI is a unit of pressure, not load. Load would be the pressure multiplied by the area that the pressure pushes on. Along similar lines, the gas charge is a pressure inside the damper, not a spring rate. The force exerted by the gas charge, and thus spring rate, depends on the piston damper rod size and pressure. This can be measured but you need to do some math if it's done using a hydraulic press, which I imagine is how that machine shop did it. For example: F=P/A (pressure measured in press / area of press piston) k=F/x (the above force is calculated at two positions around center of damper travel, difference in force / difference in damper travel = effective spring rate)

It's a center-in, offset-out 2.5" muffler. I'll have a look next time I'm under the car which should hopefully be soon. The exhaust was done about five years ago so I may struggle to dig up a part number. A friend (@v12horse) recently had a shop put in a very similar system and may be able to contribute. Another buddy just put in some version of a Hush Thrush and while not as quiet as the Walker, it was suitable for him. I don't have any actual sound level data on these but the Walker is as quiet as it gets, I imagine. I was looking for an in-car video I had but couldn't find it.

I told my exhaust shop that I wanted it as quiet as possible without sacrificing much performance. The system is a modified MSA 2.5" exhaust with a center resonator and a Walker Quiet Flow out back. It's perfect in the sense that it does exactly what I want it to do, keeps things quiet on long drives and nothing but intake roar when the mains come in.

I had the same wheels years ago and bought some "mag-style" lug nuts from O'Reilly (Kragen at the time). They fit perfectly.

If you're limiting yourself to just those sizes listed, 15's are out of the picture unless you'll be driving n the snow. Taking the 205/55-16 size as an example, sounds like your use-case falls somewhere into the max/ultra high performance summer category. Your comment about "over-tiring" a car tells me you like to go beyond the limit but like for that limit to be low enough that it can be exceeded without "excessive provocation". Based on experience, good choices are the Firestone Indy 500, BFG SC2, and Dunlop DZ102. All have nice road manners and should match well with your setup and use-case. I run 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE-11A rubber (discontinued, unfortunately) which have fantastic grip but take commitment to get the car loose. Tirerack does a pretty good job of reviewing tires, I'd recommend watching/reading when available.

Seems somebody failed Chemistry class...

If you have camber plates and aftermarket air dam, they should work. Otherwise, I agree that they'll likely rub. Completely understand your dilemma but I'd prefer to keep these as a set. I won't have any use for the tires once the wheels are gone. Feel free to come by if you're ever in the SF area for a test fit if you're still interested.

Hey Rob, I'm planning to get rid of my nearly-new 16X7 Panasports soon, I just haven't bothered to make a for sale post yet. They come with 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE11-A rubber with tons of life left. Hard to say whether they'll rub as it's car-dependent. I have coilovers and trimmed fender lips and front valence. Originally paid $1637 for the wheel and tire combo. I can do $1200 if you or anyone else is interested. Just bought a set of Wats so I'll have to reluctantly get rid of these. (That bottom photo is over-exposed, they're silver and not white, as seen in the first shot)

Sounds like you're slamming into your bumpstops, did you have a look at them when you disassembled? We had a similar problem with my friend's Z, the bumpstop had disintegrated after 40 miles. I bet your ride will improve if you preload your springs by an inch and drop your shock body by an inch to maintain ride height.

The S2000 is one of the best-looking cars ever made IMO. Both interior and exterior are purposeful yet minimalistic. The proportions are phenomenal. I will say the AP2 is a notably better looker from the factory than the AP1, especially with the factory hardtop. You got it right on the engineering. I can't think of another sports car that can rev to 9k for 300k miles and not break a sweat. Not to mention the telepathic chassis. The reason they don't go for more money is that they don't have a fancy badge on them. And I'm fine with that, maybe I can still own an NSX one day. ?

Nice find Jim! I have one on my Z, it came with it. It's cracked in the center and chipped on the side. I've been curious if I'd ever run into one. Wish I were in Canada, I imagine shipping would be a killer.