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Dan Hansen

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About Dan Hansen

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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About my Cars
    My very first 240Z from 1971 bought in Holland in start August 2017

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  1. Started all over once again, and re-checked every connection, replaced the points and set the gap 0.20, replaced the brand new condensator with another, cranked the engine... nothing? Checked the small wire inside the point, replaced it, cranked the engine... and voila, it started! Now, I have to figure out, how to hook up the electronic 1-2-3 distributor.. Thank you guys, for all your help...
  2. I do have voltage to the coil 12.4V due to described test, also got about 9V when cranking the engine. This afternoon I replaced the points, and the car gave some sign of life, but did not start? Good news, it seems that the electronic tach from a 280 are working, the needle reacts when I crank the engine... I will continue to seek after that needle...
  3. I need to know where and how to "bridge" the B/W wire to/from coil?
  4. Yes, it produced some spark and I first thought it where a missing advance curve that I did not program before I crank it.. Usually It´s not a major problem, and I could find the right program when it ran...? But as described, the spark and willingness to run became worse during the trials?
  5. Yes, it ran before I got the 1-2-3 on...
  6. I took the orig. 240 Tach out, and replaced it with a 280, and wired it due to instructions, but you mention the "bridge" I´m suddenly not sure if I did it correct? How do you bridge it?
  7. I put a new condensator on the orig. distributor...
  8. My 1-2-3 are a Bluetooth model, so no USB cables to attach...
  9. My Z are a North American model very early 1971, the distributor and ignition are all stock at this point... Only thing altered are the tachometer, that comes from a 280 (77-78)
  10. I´m litteraly on the edge of going ballistic... It started with a simple operation of replacing my stock distributor for a 1-2-3 BT Ignition, a simple job that has turned into a electrical nightmare?! The car (with the electronic distributor) turned but hesitated to start, it gradually got worse until no reaction from the cylinders at all... Back to the drawing-board, and installed the stock distributor once again, thinking it might be a faulty out of the box electronic distributor..? No reaction at all, engine turns, I smell fuel but no bang? I have power to the coil, but no spark? I have tried to jump direct from the PLUS on the battery to the coil? This is what I have done/replaced so far in my search of this gremlin: * Coil * Ballast resistor * Sparkplug and cables * Taken the entire wiring loom, from firewall to coil out, measured every cable, replaced the W/R wires with new ones, taped it all up again, before re install. * Replaced the fuse able wire to the starter motor. * Replaced the starter motor to a High Torque * Replaced the Voltage Regulator * Replaced the ignition switch * Replaced the stock tachometer with a 280 (77-78) electronic. It turns but nothing happens, not even a impulse on the tach when cranking? Gentlemen, I need some serious advice getting this one right, please help me out here
  11. Some weeks ago I decided to swap the old distributor with a 1-2-3 Ignition with Bluetooth, a relative simple operation (I have it on 2 other cars) an hour later I was ready to rumble, and nothing happened at all? Seek and you shall find? So I began, to search for any errors made during my install, checked the coil, spark plugs, replaced the old resistor, replaced the spark plug wiring, re-timed it etc.. what ever I did, i was no nearer to solve the problem? The engine cranked, but no spark? checked resistance in the coil, distributor cap, cables and so on, every things seemed to be in good order...? It was a mystery? everything worked flawless before the swap? seeking the internet, gave me several different answers, but no ideal solution on the subject, so I went back to square one, replaced the 1-2-3 with the old distributor, timed it once again, checked everything was hooked up as it should, even replaced the battery with a new one (fully charged) and even the starter motor, with a high-torque from Wosp. Cranked it.... no spark?!? The frustration began to show and I was running out of ideas as fast as I spend money on parts that could corse the trouble! A month ago, I was replacing the gear lever rubber boot, and I had taken the console and the fuse-box out, to have more room to work on, I had put everything back together, making sure that everything was reconnected the right way! Just to be sure, I decided to take a second look, and took it apart once more. The fuse box and the fuses seemed ok, I measured everything with a voltmeter and the Ohms where flowing as it should, I checked the wiring for the radio, fuel pump, rear heated window all lights green... I found the lead cable WR that goes on the backside of the fuse box, in good working order, and attached as it should, I followed this wire, as it splits and the other goes to a single pin connecter all the way back in the harness near the radio. For the first time, I could see some kind of evidence that could lead to a positive solution on my starting issue, the wire was, hard as stone, the insulation was cracked and the copper was visible? In my mind this could have caused a short cut as there are plenty of steel the wire could rub against or the current to jump, and the power will not get to the ignition switch? I´ve checked the WR from where I found the bare copper till the back of the 6 pin connector back at the switch, the wire is flexible and the voltmeter shows that current are flowing, so I´m positive that I found the problem? So, this evening I found the right connectors etc. on vintageconnections.com and now I just have to wait for it to arrive, and I can finally ( I bloody hope) start it up..?
  12. With my 240z finally done and back on the road, the only thing I need to sorte out are the jetting of my triple Mikuni´s I have been searching the old inter-web but have trouble to find a shop who sell those and offer to send it to Denmark? Any advice? Thanks...
  13. It´s 350 sq meters, is´nt that around 400 sq. ft.? Anyway, it is a very nice place, lot of natural light, space to work around the cars, and space enough to rent 9 parking spots out...
  14. My Sahara Gold 1971, which I was rebuilding the entire undercarriage, upgrade the motor with a mild race cam, a set of triple Mikuni´s and a Z-Story Exhaust system etc. are finally ready for some indian summer rides.. All in all, it has been a blast, working on this project and the numbers of trial and error are to a minimum. as for all work, there will be some small adjustments, and I think I´m through them all, at this moment. The last small things was done this afternoon in my workshop, and was attended the front and rear number rubber, as I took the bumbers of, I decided to delete the horns at the front, and before putting the new rubber corners on, I cleaned and polished the chrome work.. Now, all I need is to get the number plates some times next week, and drive it, just in time before winter.....
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