Diseazd

Replace the rear seal. I just had the same problem. I pulled the flywheel and the seal looked leak free, but in the time it takes to pull the tranny the oil (very clean and invisible after sitting) it can look like it’s not the culprit. When you install a new seal, push it in a little farther or a little less, so it doesn’t set in the groove left by the old seal. I thought mine was a waste of time, but my leak is gone. BTW.....I carefully drilled two small two small holes on opposite sides of the seal and power drilled in two long wood screws which I used to pry the old seal (actually only 1000 miles) out. Just take your time so you don’t mar any metal. Side seals are hardly ever the problem unless no sealant was used. Z Doc told me he didn’t even use sealant on side seals and said he still never had them leak....the stick seals do the job by themselves pretty much. I have since bought a Lisle seal remover tool for the next escapade. BTW, liberally grease the seal lips and crank journal before installing. Good luck.....nice to not have a leak anymore.

Next year there will be another Safari Gold Car in the parade....maybe a growing annual event.

Here we go!!!!! Brandon’s coming over to help with the install. Everything is ready for out with the old....in with the new! 240mm two plus two clutch collar also.

I got to drive it Friday night Site......quite the experience......rev limiter at 8000, and it comes up like lightning. We’ll get you a ride in Atlanta....looking forward to meeting the Alabama Jamma!

Brandon’s coming over to help install the new Stroker 3.1. Can’t ask for better than that!

Yes.....in my parts shed.. 240mm

Great purchase.....he could sell a ton at that price.

Hi Moelk....Haven’t dropped it in yet. Brandon is supposed to come by this weekend to help me guide her in. Hope things are good in Sweden...you know I’ll be posting pics when we do get around to it. Some times you just get lazy. I replaced a leaky rear seal in another car this weekend, so I’m knocking out my to do list one at a time. After the engine install, I’m putting Eibachs and Tokikos in the white car. BTW Your car looks great. Guy

Wow.....Can’t wait to see those seats....shaping up....may change some minds about the Z31’s.

After you install the new seal, the keepers are much easier to install if you coat them with a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease, a small magnet rod also helps to set them. Most people recommend slamming the top of the valve with a heavy rubber hammer to seat the keepers. This should be the last step after everything is installed, but when you do this, make sure all pistons are lowered in each cylinder that you slam....wouldn’t want to contact valve to piston.

Good luck. Heck of a deal if ligit. Post a pic when it arrives.

Hate to say it, but this seems too good to be true. I had one custom made and it was over $600.00, and this is free shipping? Be careful.

Not at all....Safari Gold with an Eiji go go motor!

Very nice!!! Sleeper

I agree....I’m running Stage III in 5 Z’s. I love it at all power bans. Just as streetable as a stock cam.

I haven’t seen it in person, but this 73 is supposedly very nice. It’s for sale for $28,000.00. If interested PM me for info on how to get in touch with the seller. Guy

I very carefully masked them off......BTW...Your car looks terrific......nice job!!

I did all of mine in Chevy Orange......Flag Orange looks great!

Wow Blue....You never cease to amaze me.... Crazy that it might be a spring problem. Can’t imagine after all these years that Eibach would have changed a thing. Good job on finding the article...see you in October! Guy

Interesting. I would think that would have to be a shock problem. Both are KYB shocks.....is there a misalignment in the shock shaft. Seems like that would have to be the culprit. IMO

Great choice on the color....,,why wouldn’t you buy the Atlanta car....looks like a steal! Love my 918 Z. So does the Hungarian blonde!

MY1PATH.....I assure you that your SU’s are adequate to supply your motor build. I run them on my Datsun Spirit Stroker Stage III motor with no problems throughout the power ban. I would not be so sure that carbs are your problem. I just fixed a high speed bog problem with new plugs (who would have thunk it?) I tried everything first.....points, condenser, tuned carbs etc. A new set of plugs and she kicks it again! Sometimes the little caps on your spark plugs can loosen causing a high rpm miss, or a cracked distributor cap or rotor. A vacuum leak can make it miss and run lean also. On a modified engine, you should probably be 3 1/2 turns down. It’s fun when you solve a problem......good luck.

Careful what you start Brandon......

ZCCOR#109......I was at Road Atlanta also in 1970.....we looked over the fence at the top of the Esses. Probably one of the most exciting times of my life when I saw the Datsuns screaming through the Esses after the parade lap. I too went out and purchased my first (1970) Z after I saw John blow away the competition. John should get a commission for every Nissan I’ve bought since......and it’s been a lot! BTW....I was also at this year’s Mitty. Regards Guy

Take the head to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed. If it’s a deteriated water jacket, maybe it can be welded, otherwise it has to be a crack in the block. Either way, it ain’t going to buy you time unless it’s repaired. Losing a gallon of water ain’t a small problem.........it’s a terminal problem. Still can’t imagine how you lose that much water without a trace! I’ll stay tuned.