Diseazd

Whatever you use Jeff, make sure the crank bolt isn’t too long. I used a Nismo performance crank bolt once and it was a tad too long (for the stock damper) to pull everything up tight. Took me a while to figure that one out. Just make sure you are torquing threads and not the bolt bottoming out, or you’ll go through the same problem again. BTW, my guess is a performance machine shop can weld and machine that snout. If they can change the stroke on a stock crank, don’t know why they can’t fix the snout. Guy

Looks good.....very little electrolysis damage on water inlets. Rockers can be sent to Delta Cams for refurbishing, cam to Isky. The head will come back from the machine shop looking like new.

Rich....You are “the man” when doing a complete restoration the right way. I love seeing these needy Z’s taken down to the bones and brought back to their original beauty. Now that you have a very detailed , “do it the right way” painter, you have the right combination to achieve concours results. With the time and money that you put into your restorations, it just lets you know that when a pristine Z sells at auction for $50,000.00, it’s little more than a “break-even”. I’ll enjoy watching this Z come back to life! Guy

Looks great Jaymanbikes, but I’d raise the track on that garage door. You know the science of impenetrability ( two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time)! ?

Actually, Zcardepot sells the rear hardliners in stainless for $49.00. The conversion allows the early cars to use the later wheel cylinders......no bending required.

Well then, how about 6 or 7 of the car from different angles to see the finished product! ?

Wow....Quite the improvement Jim....how about a shot of the back bumper? Beautiful!!!

Right you are....at the corner of N.Druid Hills Road and the Buford Highway. I spent a lot of time there back in the 70’s. Not sure if Nick is still there, but it’s a must place to go!

I was good friend’s with Nick (owner of the Rusty Nail). We hung out there back in the 70’s. Nick also had a 240Z......small world. It’s on North Druid Hills Road.....you can follow me there Cliff....it’s just a little pub, but a fun place to drink!!

4 National Championships on that podium......

You bet BamaJama! Gonna be a blast!

I couldn’t agree more Cliff. I only used a Schneider cam once (same specs as yours).It lost metal off of the number one lobe in the first 300 miles (and I did all the zinc and break in procedures) and I have never had a problem with an Isky regrind from the original Datsun billets. It’s not Schneider’s fault, they can only grind the new billets available, and they just aren’t up to snuff with the Japanese stuff. Many have been successful with Schneider’s on the new billets, but if I’m going to build an expensive performance engine, I don’t want to take any chances. IMO

It’s alive!!!!

HI Marty....Actually, the SU’s drive my other Stroker (same set up) very well. I even got a wow out of Eiji when he rode in it this weekend. I do plan to dyno the car with SU’s to see how it does. Taking the air box cover off when I need a boost gives it a nice increase. The SU’s are so damned simple and efficient that it always makes me hesitate to go all out with triples, but I think it may happen on the green car after a good break in. Believe me, even with the SU’s, these engines feel like they want to “break something” when you really get on it! Guy

7tooZ.....What brand are the new headers and how do they fit? They look great! Guy

Everything is in.....new radiator, new 240mm clutch, new clutch master and slave cylinder and of course the 3.1 Stroker. I think there will be motor music in the garage tomorrow night. Just need to adjust the valves, add oil and fill the radiator. Can’t wait!

niushork.....I just started following your thread.....this measurement is critical......92 mm (3 5/8 inches) and you are good to go.

I’ve got a nice set of them......never really use them, just remember them from way back then. Nice to see you post again Mike. Hope you’re doing good! Guy

What a great Father’s Day......Thanks Brandon.....you’ll own a Z one day....I’ll bet on it!

Yes Charles .....Cody is definitely taller than you, and you must be 6’-5”! .....and nice hair Mike. Happy Father’s Day to you both!

Here we go Andreas...... ,

Replace the rear seal. I just had the same problem. I pulled the flywheel and the seal looked leak free, but in the time it takes to pull the tranny the oil (very clean and invisible after sitting) it can look like it’s not the culprit. When you install a new seal, push it in a little farther or a little less, so it doesn’t set in the groove left by the old seal. I thought mine was a waste of time, but my leak is gone. BTW.....I carefully drilled two small two small holes on opposite sides of the seal and power drilled in two long wood screws which I used to pry the old seal (actually only 1000 miles) out. Just take your time so you don’t mar any metal. Side seals are hardly ever the problem unless no sealant was used. Z Doc told me he didn’t even use sealant on side seals and said he still never had them leak....the stick seals do the job by themselves pretty much. I have since bought a Lisle seal remover tool for the next escapade. BTW, liberally grease the seal lips and crank journal before installing. Good luck.....nice to not have a leak anymore.

Next year there will be another Safari Gold Car in the parade....maybe a growing annual event.

Here we go!!!!! Brandon’s coming over to help with the install. Everything is ready for out with the old....in with the new! 240mm two plus two clutch collar also.

I got to drive it Friday night Site......quite the experience......rev limiter at 8000, and it comes up like lightning. We’ll get you a ride in Atlanta....looking forward to meeting the Alabama Jamma!