Diseazd

Definitely makes the restoration when done right......

Yes Jonathan....The L28 crank motor is 170 hp at the wheels, so approximately 200 at the flywheel. Eiji said the Stroker motor should push 250 at the flywheel, but I haven’t dynoed one yet.

My Isky Stage III is 290 degrees duration. I’ve built 6 of the .080 shaved P79 head/ F54 block different variations. All 6 have Isky Stage III Cams. Four have .040 over flat top stock pistons. Two have Datsun Spirit Forged Pistons (they are 3.1 Stroker Motors). I built two with L24 cranks with L28 pistons and rods, two with L28 stock cranks with L28 pistons and rods and two with LD 28 Stroker cranks and forged Pistons and rods (Datsun Spirit built the two 3.1strokers). I love each and everyone of them......the strokers the most?. I would definitely go with the Isky Stage III....do it now or you will regret it IMO. I have several build threads under (topics) on my home page you can reference. No ping at any rpm or load on any of the six engines.....fabulous set up you are building.....kudos. Let me know if I can help. Guy

Yes jonathanrussell....outer springs are shimmed .080 to make geometry correct.

I agree with madkaw.....higher lift cam with more duration. You can pretty much go with a higher CR with the P79 head, however, you are pretty well locked in with your build. I love my Isky Stage III cams (.490 lift) no clearance problems. Sounds like a nice build. Good Luck

No Site, because the springs are shimmed up and the valve is .080 longer. He can go stock valve seals. BTW jy.s30z.....don’t forget the spring shims....don’t see them mentioned.

Same here madkaw, and Zup, I’m looking forward to hanging out with everyone on the forum. Hope SteveJ’s ZCON will be the best ever. You guys are gonna love the city of Atlanta and especially Road Atlanta. October is perfect in Georgia......no blistering heat!

I like em dry......never had a single problem with 510 or Z head gaskets installed dry.

Wow, this car is gonna change a lot of minds about the Z31. Can’t wait to see the new paint on it and the new motor in it!

I’ve never used Muratic acid for that purpose, but it eats rust off of nuts and bolts completely in 3 minutes. It also eats it cleanly from the surface inside gas tanks. I would fill the strut with acid (won’t take much) and let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse out with water, then see if it eats the rust and allows it fall out. Wear goggles of course. Let us know if it works. Home Depot has Muratic acid for $10.00 a gallon.

Ditto that Capt. Obvious! Atlanta is gonna be a blast.

Charles.....Xmas is coming up soon.....these are an easy install.

Holy crap! Look what my son (Five and Dime) had painted for me for my birthday!!! Awesome painting of my green 72. Thanks Brandon....you’re the best.

Sorry, but I think the fact that so many tossed the 73 flat tops in the 70’s speaks for itself.....flat tops just were a major step down from the earlier carbs.....glad you folks are going for originality, but I wouldn’t even think about trying to make them work. I just picked up a 73 for one of my friends who bought an original 73......had to use starter fluid to get it started. No thanks.....and good luck to you for trying!

https://datsunspirit.com/shop/ati-harmonic-damper-kit/

Call Eiji.....he’ll be happy to help you out.....tell him I told you to call and you are trying to put a bet down (on my car) to win our Dinwiddie race this Fall! Seriously....Eiji will be happy to give you the right info.

Not sure on the numbers Jeff, but any good speed shop (Summit) will have those numbers and my guess is the bolt came with the damper. It takes a special tool to install as you can see.

In the past, I’ve only used stock dampers.....280 dampers bought new from Nissan. My two Stroker Motors used expensive dampers (ATI Super Dampers)....Eiji built those two motors. My guess is that’s the one I sent to you. If I use stock dampers, I always use the stock crank bolts....lesson learned.

Whatever you use Jeff, make sure the crank bolt isn’t too long. I used a Nismo performance crank bolt once and it was a tad too long (for the stock damper) to pull everything up tight. Took me a while to figure that one out. Just make sure you are torquing threads and not the bolt bottoming out, or you’ll go through the same problem again. BTW, my guess is a performance machine shop can weld and machine that snout. If they can change the stroke on a stock crank, don’t know why they can’t fix the snout. Guy

Looks good.....very little electrolysis damage on water inlets. Rockers can be sent to Delta Cams for refurbishing, cam to Isky. The head will come back from the machine shop looking like new.

Rich....You are “the man” when doing a complete restoration the right way. I love seeing these needy Z’s taken down to the bones and brought back to their original beauty. Now that you have a very detailed , “do it the right way” painter, you have the right combination to achieve concours results. With the time and money that you put into your restorations, it just lets you know that when a pristine Z sells at auction for $50,000.00, it’s little more than a “break-even”. I’ll enjoy watching this Z come back to life! Guy

Looks great Jaymanbikes, but I’d raise the track on that garage door. You know the science of impenetrability ( two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time)! ?

Actually, Zcardepot sells the rear hardliners in stainless for $49.00. The conversion allows the early cars to use the later wheel cylinders......no bending required.

Well then, how about 6 or 7 of the car from different angles to see the finished product! ?

Wow....Quite the improvement Jim....how about a shot of the back bumper? Beautiful!!!