Jump to content

Leaderboard

  1. Zup

    Zup

    Subscribing Member


    • Points

      4

    • Content Count

      1,126


  2. JDMjunkies.ch

    JDMjunkies.ch

    Members


    • Points

      4

    • Content Count

      448


  3. Mark Maras

    Mark Maras

    Supporting Member


    • Points

      3

    • Content Count

      3,156


  4. zKars

    zKars

    Supporting Member


    • Points

      3

    • Content Count

      3,206


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/08/2021 in all areas

  1. When taking parts off of 50 year old Datsun’s, you may encounter some rusty bolts that need a little attention. Sometimes you just have to give up and break it off, then deal with the drill and tap that results. Perfectly normal. Some of the bolts on my “most likely to break off” list include the M8 pair at the bottom of the fender with the nifty little pointy tips that face upward, threading into an internally welded nut inside the rocker panel. Natural place for water to collect and make those threads just about solid. Well today I had a treat. The 75 280 that I’m parting out had t
    3 points
  2. If it was mine, I'd get it running with the Webers for now. There's plenty of things to change after you've gone through your list.
    3 points
  3. @240260280: Maybe my post was a bit misleading. The blanked frond lower corner valances and the Top blinkers are not the question here - these were normal on european 240Z's and both my cars came with a similar setup. I think the reason was that european cars had to have a minimum mounting height of blinkers and those that where standard equipment for the non-european markets where too low - so they came up with this solution. The big questions regarding my pictures are: - The car shows an european spec car, but with fender mirrors. and it appears to be some kind of an official show
    2 points
  4. If you have one an air compressor blow wand would be #2 after @gwri8 leaf blower suggestion. Now I want a Mudslide.
    2 points
  5. As Steve replied, your 260 is yet another example of the factory flat top carbs being ditched. In your case, as was often the case back in the day, the carbs were replaced with Weber downdraft carbs. Extremely common. There is another thread currently discussing the conversion to round tops that will give you more insight into your options and required changes regards the round tops: You can keep the Webers and rebuild and tune them, go the round top route or ----my personal favorite----find a set of flat tops and restore them. I would caution that going with the flat tops is NOT an
    2 points
  6. The carburetors installed on the car are Weber 32/36 downdraft carburetors. The air filters on those carburetors are typical for that type. The SU carburetors are side draft. The fuel rail definitely isn't stock. The stock fuel rail has a return. On this car the fuel rail is dead-headed going to the carburetors, and the line back to the tank has a redneck plug on it. As for how long the car has been sitting, my 73 has been sitting in my garage for 11 years, and it has less dust on the engine than this car.
    2 points
  7. Can anybody tell me something about this car or where it was shown?? I found it in an Car related archive. All information was that ithe picture shows a Datsun 240Z from 1971. It looks like it was displayed at a booth at some car show, but honestly i have no clue where or when exactly. To me it looks like a prototype car or something similar. I don't think this weird combination of parts ever made it into production - It appears to be an early Euro spec car (LHD, no rear side markers, but additional blinkers in the front grille) - No "Euro" front spoiler - Fender mirrors -
    2 points
  8. Today's entertainment. Actually sold, over riders in the back, not original, not a 71, for $26,750. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-151/
    1 point
  9. Here is another three Z's with the blanked under bumper turn indicators (and bumper mounted ones) like the one above: First two are in France, 3rd in Germany. Bonus is a prototype in Japan (possibly a HP Prince I6? Interesting exhaust pipes 🙂 )
    1 point
  10. For sure! I would start with a leaf blower first just to avoid making mud slides. You're going to wind up touching every part of that engine and it will be much easier to inspect when it's clean(ish).
    1 point
  11. If it "ran when parked" best to just get it running again first, with what's on there. You'll know that what you have should work. If you swap parts before you start you'll be starting from unknown. https://www.amazon.com/Empi-Master-Rebuild-Dune-Buggy/dp/B00FB7ZFM0 Study up on points, and timing, and mechanical fuel pumps.
    1 point
  12. I’ve been tracking my Z more, I’ve been a bit concerned about oil starvation as the pan is not baffled. I was thinking that a turbo oil pump might be beneficial as I’m running bit of a unknown pump that I just threw in when I was assembling the motor. The motor is an flattop overbored L26, with a n42 head that’s been slightly shaved down. Usually on idle it can appear to be pretty low on the guage, esp if the oil is nice and HOT. Are there possible downsides to having too much oil pressure/flow in the system? I’ve seen that some people ( @siteunseen ) say that the pressure gauge was
    1 point
  13. I have always faced the metal side to the exhaust manifold because the head has coolant running through it and the manifold doesn't. You might want to take a coarse file to the mating surface on the exhaust manifold to make sure that all rust and carbon deposits have been removed and the surface is flat, those 2 exhaust leaks on cylinder #5 and #6 show that something is off.
    1 point
  14. When the head is off, you have to check if everything is strait as an arrow.. use a ruler and some feeler gauge.. (or shine a light under the ruler and look for light on the other side ) Reading about how it's done is always good.. Also many vid's on youtube about it.
    1 point
  15. This week is about denting and panels adjustment. Will end up with a test fitting with the new weatherstrip to ensure everything opens/closes smoothly. Starting to look like a car again 😍 Some progress on the shocks and other parts: T3 coilover kit fitted on the original Nissan leg, with the KYB Excel-G inside. The leg is then gone for painting in satin black and I am also getting new shock mounts. Same treatment for the other parts, except the sway bars to be red, to match with the bushing kit and the rear diff cover will remain aluminum with ceramic protection.
    1 point
  16. If you open the throttle fully and crank, will it eventually start? Say after 5 seconds of cranking with the pedal all the way down. If you open the hood before the hot restart, do you notice fuel dripping from the air horns? This sounds like a flooding issue either due to fuel siphoning, too rich of a mixture, or both. If the car restarts with the throttle floored, then we can look deeper into why it might be flooding.
    1 point
  17. What @jfa.series1, says, I use a coarse wire wheel to remove everything down to clean metal, by that time the piece looks pretty good and for bolts that's as far as I go. For showy pieces after the coarse wheel I switch to a fine wire wheel and everything comes up gleaming. It all comes back looking like treasure.
    1 point
  18. Now I get why you wanted to know how to get the crank out like that. In this case the easiest is to buy the engine, take it home and remove what you want and sell the rest. Too bad it got away. I saw one of these engines on a pallet for sale online recently, for a few hundred bucks. It was gone by the time I inquired about it.
    1 point
  19. I put seats from a '90 300ZX in mine. I first saw some at the old MSA Zcar show. Asked the owner to sit in in his car. They were way more comfortable and supportive. He said it wasn't too difficult to install. He and I used the original adjusters from our S 30s and drilled a couple of new holes. Went right in and I've never regretted the swap. My old tired butt and back thank me whenever I go for a drive. Cheers, Mike
    1 point
  20. So everyone knows.....I didn’t buy this Viper it was given to me by my father who was quite an amazing man. He came from humble, lower income family beginnings. Was a 2x Vietnam vet who flew helicopters in the war. He came home with pretty severe PTSD and was so emotionally damaged and saddened by his experience that he decided to become a doctor. He packed up the family and moved us to Italy in 1973 and got his MD in Rome taught in Italian (which he learned while there). We moved back to the states and he became an ER doctor, opened several clinics and gave Free medical services to all V
    1 point
  21. Hi! I'm Mário and I'm from Portugal...recently I restores my Z...a Portuguese one! Well, I learn a lot reading this topic, and I found some interesting features, like the 432 suspension and many other details. I can confirm about the stabilizer bars sizes and all extras our Portuguese Z's have! It's very interesting because my Z is the lowest vin in Portugal, sold and registered in August 71, but the manufacture month is March. There are 70 Z's sold in this year (71) and all with lowest vins...mine is HLS30U-23644...there are several diferences from the others sold d
    1 point
  22. Creeping back into L land.....
    1 point

Announcements



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.