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"Acid solution containing Hydrofluoric acid, Sulfuric acid, and Nonylphenoxy Ethoxy Ethanol Have a 0.13% solution of zepharin chloride solution on hand" Yikes. For those who don't know anything about hydrofluoric... If I remember correctly, the zepharin chloride is an emergency measure to give it a calcium target that it likes better than the calcium in your body. Like your bones. Classic tradeoff between safety and effectiveness. That stuff probably works great.

So I got the headliner trim in Gonna have to pick up the pace to be ready for Zcon 2024 Momma is starting to crack the whip

I ran the stock R180 3.36 behind my L28ET for years before my kids shamed (badgered) me into swapping to an R200. Personally, both me and my turbo motor were just fine with the R180 but it made the kids happy for some reason... You NEED an R200 = Internet Wisdom.

Looking so very good Charles! You are clearly the bulldog clip king of your neighborhood!!!

You have the carburetors biased too far to the rear carburetor. Let's assume that your jet needles are set properly and are straight. Other assumptions include your floats are set properly, the needle valves function properly, and the carburetors are jetted the same. Verify your valve lash! If you haven't adjusted your valves lately, now is the time. This removes a potential confounding factor. Turn your idle adjust nuts fully in (#21 in the first drawing). Back them out 3 turns each. (Okay, this may be a little rich, but let's do it that was for now.) Get the car up to temperature and turn it off. Make sure the first idle setting screw (#7 in second picture) is not pressing on the throttle. Ensure that the balance screw (#3 in 2d picture) is barely in contact with the linkage on the rear carburetor. If it's pushing down on the linkage, that will bias toward the rear. Try starting the car. If it won't idle, then use the first idle setting screw to get an initial idle. Check the balance, and use the throttle adjusting screws (#4 & #6 in 2d picture) to balance the carburetors.

I tried to get some better pictures of the interior roof trim I will work on this fold a little more. I glued the passenger side and it looks a little better. I'm sure I can make this detail right with a little more fiddling

I am swapping my whining 3:36 for a 3:54 as we speak. I am currently running a 5 speed and can't wait to relieve myself of the whining and the somewhat better performance. I realize that it's not going to be dramatic, but I am not going to be autocrossing the car either. 3:70 is what I would have preferred, but I'll be happy enough if the decelleration whine is gone...!

in that 240z pic you also see a big piece of carpet in the passenger footwell under the dash, I presume there to hide all the hoses etc...

If you pulled the compressor back there and didn't seal up the hardlines to the evaporator, chances are the expansion valve components inside have rusted and it may be Borked. Here there's a much less chance of that happening. You might see if you can push A/C cleaner through the liquid line (at the firewall?) and catch what comes out the suction line in a rag. If your expansion valve is OK I'd say it's definitely worth keeping. It's pretty easy to flush all the other parts. Get a new Sanden, have a couple of hoses made for the compressor conversion, replace the dryer, charge with 134a...

Yes but your paint, decals, carpet, bunk, rubber and wiring will be just fine. Love the label.

What's driving the return to R180? Most people want to go the other way...

Two things: Post a picture of your airflow meters. Are they the Unisyn type? Personally I don't like them because they block airflow. I like using one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-5385730856-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0 Consider getting a meter like this for tuning: https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K or a timing light with tachometer and advance from Innova or Actron. That way you have your engine speed with you right where you are tuning. Yes, that's the valve lash. You used cam lobe and rocker singularly. I hope you meant you checked all cylinders. Yes, it's pedantic, but I don't like assuming details. Did you do the other steps I listed? Have you touched the throttle adjusting screws?

To your point - this thing was literally paper thin in areas - probably why the do not touch sign was on it - and I was shocked how much it sold for 6 year ago!! But never underestimate the power of of having will and skill! If the OP can do metalwork to a high standard then a tonne of cost is saved.

I saw one of these in central NJ years ago. In much worse shape, but same concept. I doubt it was the same car, but how many 4x4 S30's are out there, I wonder?

Yes the cleaner. I should show a picture of the bottle.

It's definitely a real-time reference. Once I got my Z problems all sorted out I barely opened the hood more than once a month. And that was only to check the oil and coolant reservoir. So, it really depends on where you're at in your project. I also had found a Schrader valve T'ed in to an Isuzu fuel line in the wrecking yard. So I had a Schrader valve for measuring pressure easily. Many different ways to do things. You can probably find electronic methods today and have a gauge in the car.

This just came to mind when you were talking about a “side winder hose”. Here’s a couple of pics of a line that came with my fuel line kit from SS Tube. Hooks to the factory pump configuration but might work on other applications. You can order it separately and possibly continue on with straight hose. Just a thought. Good luck with your project.

It's been off the road for a while. I think I see a 94.

Maybe this guy will run a comparison. He does some pretty neat stuff. https://www.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm

It’s far more complicated than “copper is better than aluminum.” Yes, a chunk of copper transfers heat better than a chunk of aluminum. However, if you look at computer heat sync design, you’ll see that they frequently use a copper base to pull heat out of the devices, but then have aluminum vanes to radiate the heat because of aluminum’s ability to transfer heat to the air. I don’t know the science in this, but I have read in a handful of places that copper is better at absorbing heat and aluminum is better at expelling heat. That might be suspect, but it might be true. Also, copper radiators are tin soldered and aluminum radiators are brazed/welded with aluminum. Tin soldering inhibits the heat transfer between the copper pieces, reducing the overall efficiency of the radiator as a whole. Welding doesn’t introduce this problem, so that brings the net effect closer together. Additionally, aluminum is stronger, which allows manufacturers to use different designs and to have denser tubing throughout the core, not to mention parallel flow vs serpentine, etc. A copper radiator made the same way would weigh 100 pounds. Add into that the quality of the manufacturing and you are 100% precluded from saying a copper/brass radiator is always better than an aluminum one. I already know that (on a test bench) a Koyo cross flow is more efficient than a copper 3-row, and that is because of the design. But that doesn’t mean the Koyo is the better option. The fact that it can’t take a shroud negates some of that better design and manufacturing. But people still rave over their Koyos, which is why I am looking for real world experience with Champion vs Koyo. So if we could get back on topic and look at the performance of specific radiator models against each other I would appreciate it.

Sounds like the only reason you have for getting a new rail is looks? A fuel pressure gauge is nice but you can plumb that in for $30. Is it worth it? Hard to put a price on pretty.

Why? It doesn't have to costs much if you can do the sheet metal work yourself, i've just finished metal work on a 67 chevelle that came from Michigan, that was half gone, trunk, inner wheels well, rockers, etc. Chassis also half gone. Only spended 6k in materials, the rest is time.

If that was an air cooled 911 or a 356, you are looking at $20-25K as it sits. But 240Z. A parts car. IMO.

Made some more progress on the heater box a couple of weekends ago Core Adding foam I don't really care for the white foam showing, but I guess it doesn't matter I stripped this and have since replated it. I have also softened the Oring in detergent, but haven't tested it yet