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I’ve been on a bit of a roll lately working on the car. It feels really good to actually be making some progress. 2/3 more days and the car will be ready for the blaster. today I wrapped up the bracing. I added reinforcements to the rocker panel and tied that into the main brace, then tied the roof corners to the main brace. It might be overkill but I already paid for the steel a long time ago so figured I might as well use it…. the blaster is gonna hate me though… i hope he’s a skinny fellow… also had a bit of extra time so started unpicking the dodgy bros repairs on the rear slam panel. Mmmm crunchy….

Techno Toy just sent out an email for their new, custom made S30 steering rack. Check it out: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z

Yeah I set mine like the DVD from ztherapy shows, however the DVD uses Grose valves which are much stiffer than the new needle pin valves they sold me. I turned the lids upside down to get the 9/16" space the DVD shows. My tangs looked like the ramps Evel Knievel used to jump the Bellagio fountains. I finally got wise/bored and put the floats and lids on top of a glass, hooked up a low psi fuel pump and set them to 23mm down. Then the tangs look like speed bumps instead of ramps now. I believe it was the fountains at Caesars now that i think about it. I's just a puppy when I saw that.

no one has seen the car in person and how damn rusty she is. I’m removing a lot of the main panels that provide structural rigidity to the body before I send it to the blaster, so I don’t see it as unnecessary, I see it as insurance. Cheap insurance. No one can say what the strength is of the chassis currently and that the rear quarter panel will remove 5% rigidity to the RHS. No one really knows. So if I waste some 25mm SHS and a couple of days so be it. im not very optimistic about what will come back from the blaster…

A bit scary to see.. lots of scaffolding/bracing haha.. remember you have to make all parts fit before painting, then you can see what fit's what doesn't, you make a lot of braces but i think it just a lot of unnecessary work.. I hope the car.. what's left of it... doesn't scare you to much when it comes back from the blaster!

I took a look at what I have, and I unfortunately do not have a spare KYB gland nut. Here's a pic of what I could quickly put my hands on... Note that the new KYB on the bottom row is not available. I took that out of a KYB strut box here and the plan is that strut (and it's nut) will find it's way onto my car. I don't know the brand/origin of the top left nut or the one top middle. The top right is from a Tokico strut, and the bottom two are new KYB's' from a front strut box. I need the big KYB, but the small one is extra. Too small for my strut tubes:

1991 is a long time ago... Family matters...

I just want to subscribe to follow along. I love seeing details on these cars and learning more about them. I'm curious if this car ran the competition CDI ignition box (Mitsubishi?) orange / white colour? And if so, where they mounted it? Under the dash? Did they run points distributor or have some kind of electronic / reluctor / pickup signal? Oh and any photos of the engine bay yet? Or do we need to wait? 🙂

These forests are Bigfoot country. Yeah, they're real. Not sure what you mean by "roll down my jets" but I raised my jets (leaned it out) when I got near 7,000' with my SUs.

I was surprised when you said you were 30 min from home and you drove your car with rocker off the pad. I could barley keep mine running. Yea, I know I should be driving the car, but work, health, and a lousy restorer are my only excuses. Things got so bad with the restorer I took the car back and had to do all of the mechanical and electrical work myself. My car had 368K miles on it when I decided to do a rolling resto which turned into a frame up. My goal is to get the old girl back on the road by December. I hate to admit it, but this is a 17 year old project !

He means, put it back on, recheck your valve lash, and go thrash it...

So, no altitude compensation in the '75. Once stopped and restarted, was it better? (some ECUs read barometric pressure at ignition ON and use that figure until power off) Now the SU guys are gonna say: Dang, I could have just rolled down my jets (temperature/altitude adjustment knobs) and kept on going! Sucks you got EFI... The forests in the Rockies are a bit different than in the East, eh. I was raised on the Western slope of the continental divide in Idaho. I thought I knew what a forest was until: A. My wife and I drove across country to Virginia. B. My son and I drove up the West coast to Portland, Oregon. Those are forests.

The ignition switch is very simple. You could just measure continuity through the pins on the back and determine if it's bad. The pins are marked.

Looks like the switch locks out the EGR system at low engine temperatures. Can't tell if the switch is normally open or normally closed though. You didn't say what temperature the engine was at. Emission Control (EC) chapter.

Even if it just drops the air temp in the cabin to the mid 80s, that would be a BIG improvement for me.

I did not pour over the 75 wiring diagram, but for other years, a temperature switch controlled things like ignition timing and EGR engagement. I understand that you're not running the original ignition module, but maybe somehow you're getting EGR pumped into the intake manifold when you shouldn't be? Just tossing out ideas.

That's not a lot of weight if you live in the Southeastern US. You should have seen me after driving to Memphis and back for ZCON 2015. I would not have minded and extra 70 lbs at all for that trip.

One of the gland nut wrenches I posted pictures of earlier would have fit that nut before it was attacked by a welder and a pipe wrench.

Probably the lack of use is the biggest culprit. Valve probably hung up and the rocker went off the rail. Worst thing you can do to these engines is to NOT use them. Just starting them up now and then is not enough. I'd put it back on and go thrash on it down a back road .

I found the thread and I need to apologize. It was my lash pad or rocker guide that fell off the valve spring. The rocker actually stayed on top of the valve spring retainer it was just super loose but straight. Looking at your's I don't think you would have gone too far without damaging something. Mine...

Make sure you get the plug wires seated far down enough in the cap. If there is a gap, it will arc between the cap and plug wire, eating away at the plastic in the cap. As for the fuel pump, a couple of years ago I replaced the fuel pump one someone's car with a Delphi pump. I wasn't happy with the results, so I swapped the diaphragm over from the Delphi to the stock fuel pump. The old pump ran great with the new diaphragm.

Good update Jim. Yes the new pumps can be that bad. I really think it's the valves in the new pumps. Sometimes they just don't seal or they stick open. It shuts off soon after that...

You can only manage 28 degrees total ? That seems quite low even for 10:1 and 92 octane . Serious amount of power left on the table .

Thanks guys, Feeling much better about putting rear suspension together and back on the car again. Shocks seemed like they should be so obvious but I just wasn't sure. This site and everybody that participates is really appreciated. Gonna make her roll and then yank the engine and tear into the 5 speed. I'm gonna know and have gone thru and either painted, plated or replaced every nut, bolt and screw by the time I'm done. You will hear from me again! Best to all! And I know somebody's gonna notice from the photo. The brake backing plate is on the wrong side strut housing. This was a dry fit and I've since corrected. Stub axles pressed in soon. Inner bearing races and spacer will be supported from behind when stub axle is pressed in.

I ordered the T3 Ultimate Steering Package, you get their billet steering coupler and high clearance outer tie rods with the rack, but it hasn't arrived yet.

Congratulations on your attendance at a car show ! And thank you so much for sharing your car’s details with us . I am so excited about seeing your genuine Works rally car , it is so fascinating. You must have been dedicated to the car , I just imagine how difficult it is to collect the rare of the rare parts . Also you must have spent a lot of time to confirm it’s provenance. You have Alan , he is the best enthusiast to ask , I am enjoying this thread , a lot of new things to learn . One thing I would like to know is , the speed meter . Max 180 km/h , this is not a usual thing for Fairlady Z series for 1969-1973 . They have Max 240 km/h scale . Is that a Works special or, normal scale for Australia or some other destinations? Kevin’s Works car has also 180 km/h scale . Kats