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I believe this may be that which you seek. PM me to discuss discussion of asset transferancing. Yes I’ve been drinking again.

So let’s see about a little update: Cody and I started working on his motor maybe a week ago or so We had to decide if we were going to drill the mains out or just slot the block side of the main cap and add a feed hole in the bearing. I looked in Honsowetz’s book and he recommends opening those feed galleys up to 5/16 or 0.313”. Which if I calculated it right is a 62% increase. So Cody and I discussed it and felt more comfortable with drilling the mains. Partly because we’re not making a lot of grit in the engine block. We started by getting the end plugs out of the main galleys. That way we could properly clean and wash the block later. They were stouter then I expected… A little homemade puller big enough for the plug to pass through it We didn’t want to drill the supply mains and realize we couldn't get the main galley open to clean it out. Then we worked on tapping the ends of the main galley for brass plugs We may have to make these deeper but I didn’t want to make them too large since the 3/8 NPT tap is tapered. On to drilling… So this is really sketchy because the metal drills pretty easily but only the very edges of the bit are cutting. We used 3 different sized bits to work up to 5/16”. They didn’t need to be special because you’re not drilling overly deep. We were concerned we might break a bit but with a little cutting oil it went pretty good. We were going to clean the block up and get ready for setting the rotating assembly but I can’t find the main bearings I bought! I went by the machine shop last Tuesday and he didn’t have them. Even though I’m pretty sure I took them, but I can’t be sure I didn’t pick them up. The problem is, right now they seem to be unavailable everywhere. Neither Clevite or King. I found some vintage TRW’s on ebay I have coming my way and I have an order in for some Kings from another place. Hopefully one of them will get here soon. Cody would like to have a running car by Zcon. He will have to hustle! It’s doable but he will have to focus to get it done.

I suspect my 280 is the only Z car with Campagnolos and yes they were purchased new.

Trying to get a little done anytime I can but probably get a max of 8hrs of work in a week if I’m lucky. First piece is almost finished but ran out of gas and my hook up for welding supplies is one worker short. Unfortunately he was the one that helped us the most. Just getting close to finishing up making the patch pieces for the floor joint in front of the first section. Need to fill in my holes yet Vise grip orgy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried this initially but the clutch wouldn't disengage. I finally adjusted the crap out of it (my last pic) and the clutch disengages but I have no gap between bearing and plate. I need to adjust it where the clutch still disengages and where the bearing is not up against the plate all the time. I guess this is just trial and error.

It's interesting that when Nissan went to the self-adjusting operating (slave) cylinder that they put a very light weight spring in the cylinder to take up the play. Which means that the gap gets reduced to zero, but with no significant force. I wonder if that has something to do with the noise that people often hear, that many have assumed is the countershaft bearing. Maybe it's the clutch fork rubbing on the throwout bearing. A person would have to hear the noise, open the hood and reach down to the cylinder and pull the rod back to be sure, I'd guess. Or get a helper to do it. Just a thought I had when looking at how the self-adjuster works. There is no 2 mm gap.

Don't sweat the 2mm clearance. The important thing is there is enough clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers that the bearing doesn't spin with the pressure plate when the clutch is released.

I’ll take a look. I wouldn’t be surprised if the bolts didn’t line up.

Fidanza's web site is pretty poor, the search engine doesn't find anything, but Google did. Here's an example of a replacement plate. Not sure if it's right for yours or not. Probably best to call them. https://www.fidanza.com/products/copy-of-flywheel-friction-kit-229501?variant=14995559841835

First of all, thanks for your input. Unfortunately, there was no progress with the transmission yet due to some urgent problems with my daily car (1989 Mercedes 190D). The rear axle frame was rusted through + some 'minor' ventilation holes around the spare wheel well and rear wheel arches: Full rear axle restoration later + patching up ~5 holes I am now ready to get back to the transmission noise. @EuroDat Just saw that you are living around the corner. People are saying you are an expert in those transmissions. Maybe I can bribe you into a transmission-rebuild-weekend with some jerry cans of 'tax free' Aral Super Plus (Or other German 'Köstlichkeiten' of course)?

Lovely E4620 tubular manifold, Kats! Talking about the E7275 (later E7276) Race Option megaphone exhaust, a friend of mine owns this one. A rare survivor:

1976 Camaro will work. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1976,camaro,5.0l+305cid+v8,1035065,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

10 years later and I'm still sending 280Z owners to this Link....👍

Brandon had his Pathfinder wet sanded and buffed. Original paint came out better than new…..beautiful!

Just did a bit of photography today...

I just changed my panasport wheels from 195's to 215x60xR15. They fill the wheel well pretty decently, adjusted shock height and then did a full alignment. Yeah I know, they need a cleaning...Will do maybe this weekend....

Minilite's- The 5 White ones were bought from Sharp (he was selling off some racing parts) - off the C Production Z

15 x 10's (GT2)

Jongbloed 16x10's and 12's (IMSA)

BBS 16 x 10's and 12's (IMSA)